OB Brake Light Switches R&R
05-30-2011, 05:27 PM
#1
Racer
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OB Brake Light Switches R&R
I thought I'd relate my experiences to add to the searches for OB Brake Light/Pressure Switches R&R archives.
What I eventually ended up having/having to buy:
24 mm Crowsfoot Wrench (15/16 is the same size, and just as rare)
1/2X11/16 Socket Cap (Craftsman set of 3 sizes from Sears of course)
11/16 stubby wrench
I knew this job wasn't going to be any fun for me as my hands are about five inches across. As others have said, it's not hard - straight forward wrenching - but the area is tight.
CAUTION - Disconnect Battery - CAUTION
This will keep you safe from frying anything, and it will also reset that BRAKE LIGHTS annunciator that started this whole thing... Also, inspect and wiggle/rotate all of the fuses, (particlarly 10 for my 79) to ensure corrosion isn't causing your issue.
1) Remove the top of the air cleaner housing
2) Remove the DS air inlet tube
3) Disconnect the accessory vacuum tubing from the nipple on the brake booster vacuum line. Be very careful when pulling the tiny vacuum lines off. They may be brittle or melted sort-of, and snap in two. Mine were supple and came off nicely. I tucked them on top of the air filter so I'd have to move them when I put the air filter top on... just in cast I forgot.
4) Disconnect the brake booster vacuum line. Again, be careful not to break anything plastic. I had to cut some of my tubing and replace. Advance Auto has 1/2" ID heater hose tubing that works great.
Now you have room to at least put a wrench on the old switches.
5) Disconnect both switch wiring connectors (don't mix them up)
6) Insert the 1/2X11/16 socket cap into what will be the bottom of the 24mm crowsfoot
7) Put the box end of the 11/16 stubby onto the socket cap and viola, your new pressure switch wrench combo.
8) 1/16 of a turn at a time (cause that's all you can move it) remove each switch
Reverse to reinstall everything... As most have said, not hard, just a pain getting to the switches. As some others have said - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. The stubby wrench and close quarters reduces this possibility, but it's still possible.
Success for me today! Yay.. I can drive it again this week!
Disclaimer - No parts, tools, animals, small children, or feelings were broken, thrown, or otherwise injured during this precedure... Consult Wally's instructions for further troubleshooting if this does not solve your problem.
What I eventually ended up having/having to buy:
24 mm Crowsfoot Wrench (15/16 is the same size, and just as rare)
1/2X11/16 Socket Cap (Craftsman set of 3 sizes from Sears of course)
11/16 stubby wrench
I knew this job wasn't going to be any fun for me as my hands are about five inches across. As others have said, it's not hard - straight forward wrenching - but the area is tight.
CAUTION - Disconnect Battery - CAUTION
This will keep you safe from frying anything, and it will also reset that BRAKE LIGHTS annunciator that started this whole thing... Also, inspect and wiggle/rotate all of the fuses, (particlarly 10 for my 79) to ensure corrosion isn't causing your issue.
1) Remove the top of the air cleaner housing
2) Remove the DS air inlet tube
3) Disconnect the accessory vacuum tubing from the nipple on the brake booster vacuum line. Be very careful when pulling the tiny vacuum lines off. They may be brittle or melted sort-of, and snap in two. Mine were supple and came off nicely. I tucked them on top of the air filter so I'd have to move them when I put the air filter top on... just in cast I forgot.
4) Disconnect the brake booster vacuum line. Again, be careful not to break anything plastic. I had to cut some of my tubing and replace. Advance Auto has 1/2" ID heater hose tubing that works great.
Now you have room to at least put a wrench on the old switches.
5) Disconnect both switch wiring connectors (don't mix them up)
6) Insert the 1/2X11/16 socket cap into what will be the bottom of the 24mm crowsfoot
7) Put the box end of the 11/16 stubby onto the socket cap and viola, your new pressure switch wrench combo.
8) 1/16 of a turn at a time (cause that's all you can move it) remove each switch
Reverse to reinstall everything... As most have said, not hard, just a pain getting to the switches. As some others have said - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. The stubby wrench and close quarters reduces this possibility, but it's still possible.
Success for me today! Yay.. I can drive it again this week!
Disclaimer - No parts, tools, animals, small children, or feelings were broken, thrown, or otherwise injured during this precedure... Consult Wally's instructions for further troubleshooting if this does not solve your problem.
05-30-2011, 07:34 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
nice write up....Thanks!
05-30-2011, 11:36 PM
#4
Racer
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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I must have read your write-up jp, as I sealed the cap with saran wrap. I got several drops/drips out of each when I took them off, but didn't loose much fluid at all and I don't think any air bubbles went upstream into the MC.
I "seem" to have a little more pedal travel now.. but as I've only put 50 miles on the car... I can't trust my foot. If I need to bleed the system, so be it.. I get a very firm pedal about 1" into the push... and no weeps/leaks via the switches. I think I did alright.
I "seem" to have a little more pedal travel now.. but as I've only put 50 miles on the car... I can't trust my foot. If I need to bleed the system, so be it.. I get a very firm pedal about 1" into the push... and no weeps/leaks via the switches. I think I did alright.
