Mako 928

I just converted MY '85 to '86.5 ( S4 suspension) Here is what you will need to change out.

Upper lower control arms. lower air deflector on lower arm, air deflector to brakes, ball joints, shock mounting perch. ( Inspect arm bushings and they will probably need to be replaced with rebuilt arms)
Inner/ outer tie rods
Front sway bar, drop links
Hubs ( might as well replace inner/ outer bearings/ races. Have machine shop press out/ in new races)
Spindles
Rotors ( bigger) and calipers. ( good time to replace brake lines) Will need to shim ( aprox 4mm) rear caliper to center caliper. Paint calipers.

Note: On MY 86.5 calipers the piston seals are NLA and to rebuild/ replace the seals you will need to replace the pistons and the seals.

I did not need to replace shocks/ springs as they will fit MY '85 '86 '86.5
Rear dust shield will not mount to rear arm and will need to be deleted

Also, check your ride height before doing the conversion. I had gained exactly 1" in height after doing the conversion.
You will need to get an alignment anyway after doing the conversion.

The upgrade works for me as I track and autocross.

mickster

Hmmm I can get the following form an 88 S4:

2 kunckles complete, 2 upper arms, 2 lower arms, front calipers, rear calipers for $600 plus shipping of $80.

Sounds like I'd still need front sway and drop links.

Did you keep ABS intact?

That is a LOT of items to swap out to be sure.

I think if the car runs and brakes well, I may just give up on S4 performance for now. If not, I'll keep on looking!

Michael

Landseer

Good luck, get some snapshots. Nobody bashful here about rendering a helpful opinion you know.

Shane

The rear brakes suk on the early '86 and unless you leave the dish wheels on it, will look tiny and pathetic even with just 17" wheels. It also has a 33bar bias valve on it for that small rear brakes and would be something to keep in mind if you upgraded. '86.5 gets the 19bar bias, although I upgraded Helmut to a 55bar for the rear and love it, so...

It is doable to upgrade the '86 but unless you get it for an outstanding deal probably cheaper to keep looking.

Mako 928

Michael

I did not convert to ABS. I just removed the sensors from the spindles and plugged the hole.

For a 32 V I found that it was an issue ( access to nuts) to replace the upper control arms once the lower control arms, spindles and swaybar was out.

mickster

Okay so here's the deal. Went to look at the car and drive the car.

I was not consciously thinking about the brakes or suspension, just enjoying the drive. Didn't want to prejudice myself.

After driving it, however, the ride was smooth and brakes were in great shape, but it did not have that modern braking feel my old 89 had, or the 86.5-89's I've driven before. Also felt more floaty in turns-sorry for that goofy description, but it wasn't as sharp handling.

I do know now I want an 86.5 or later.

However let me tell everyone about the car and its history, it may be a GREAT car for someone here:

Paint-8 out of 10. Some spots are 1 footer, some are 3. There are a few chips about 3mm x 3mm in the hood. Front bumper cover is a bit wavy but not terrible by any means. The chips could be filled-however L999 custom color code-apparently closest to Porsche's Midnight Blue.

Trim: 9.5 out of 10. The window trim is near perfect. Rear spoiler, damn close to perfect. Front in place. Did not go under the car. All exterior rubber and trim beads in EXCELLENT shape.

Dash is wavy but I did not see ANY cracks-even on defroster vents. Did not see any pod cracks. Steering wheel clean. The carpets are older but I believe need nothing but some steam cleaning/detailing. No need to replace.

Rear quarters perfect. Nice aftermarket stereo-original speakers. Nothing too special but not period looking.

Dash lights all good including shift lights.

AC does not work (front or rear). Feels like compressor tries to kick on but not high and low. Seems to be original R12. May just need a recharge-may need more.

E-brake will not engage (no clicks).

Hood release is broken but can be opened (part is there).

Sunroof got stuck closing but was able to be finagled (back forth). Probably lube on tracks needed. Seems very well sealed.

Seat bolster wear-minor. Leather all looks in excellent shape including door panels. Could use a Leatherique clean-up but nothing else.

Driver seat fore-aft did not seem to work but all else did (did not try seat heaters).

Passenger window switch not working. I think it is the switch.

Car passed NY State emissions with flying colors--almost no HC emissions, very little CO and very little NOx 1 year ago. Car turns over every time cleanly.

All paint is original on intake---very clean. All stickers intact. Does not appear to have any repaint. Some hoses looked older but overall very clean engine bay. Some old burn oil/grease but did not feel any leaks and no indication of steering rack issues.

Does have an all new windshield ($1600!!!) but it is a bit wavy.

Rear hatch release did not work. Rear wiper does not work I am told.

Has full complete and clean toolkit.
Has original gloves, belt, all items under spare except 3rd party compressor. Easy to find another to make whole.

Their dad was a Rennlister (but not member).

It shifts incredibly smoothly-not a single hitch (shifter handle is broken but works fine with a push). The only issue when parked it rolls a bit before engaging. Might be an easy fix. Car idles beautifully and hear a tiny injector click-nothing out of the ordinary for these cars.

Have full shop manuals plus Chilton (I think they are copies not original but nicely done).

Timing belt done recently.

It's not a show car but would show nicely. Definitely a solid driver, weekender.

Again the brakes were not to my liking (do everything they should-not worn at all).

Tires look like they could use replacement-might also be sign of ball joint replacement time.

Shocks and ride were great. Acceleration was great.

I would have gone more in depth but my allergies are making me very foggy.

They are asking $6500 and considering some of the cars I have seen, I think this is well worth it.
66,000 miles. Only 3000 miles in last 7 years.

Michael

Flint Ironstag

Mako, thanks for the detailed writeup. This community continues to impress, year after year.

Landseer

Sounds like a very solid car.

Don't know how a person could do much better.

Courtshark

+1

Nicole

I learned something from this thread. I thought in the US, early 86 didn't have ABS like 85, and ABS was introduced with the 86.5 changes. Looks like I was wrong.

mickster

Oh has original cargo cover too. Don't remember if I saw the net. If someone is looking for an 86 jump on it before the owner changes their mind and keeps it.

Michael

Jon B.

Michael, I think YOU need to jump on it. I plan on upgrading my '86 to '86.5+ brakes and suspension.

Suspension (softness) is easily taken care of and the brakes can be updated with pad/fluid change.

Passing on a nicely optioned CLEAN 5-Speed w/LSD 32v car on account of those things seems like you are setting yourself up for disappointment. The next car might have those things you are looking for, but be a DOG. Or quite a bit more than you want to spend.

Landseer

Agree.

I'm in favor of upgrades, but having driven S and S4, I'm still not getting the whole brake / suspension conversion thing.

mickster

It's not a 5 speed-it's Auto. I agree re: dogs vs. nice cars, however the car did not feel right for me-and I'd rather wait and find the right one than rushing (relatively) in again just to have a car right now. I know new pads will do wonders but again it's about feel. Since I knew the roads I was on, and having just driven my daily driver on them prior to the drive I have a baseline. I did the same on other test drives.

Landseer

My wife's 86 is extremely soft compared to the 85.
Feels truly a bit like a Buick.
Driving down the same windy road is two totally different experiences.
Its sitting very low (ride height--- uncompressing the springs) and needs shocks.
Almost feels unsafe, comparitively.