'86.5 PK Black Edition
05-25-2011, 02:44 PM
#17
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I could stop by Shane's place and grab his ST1...but I can probably get by with a WOTpot, and my wideband 'Lambda' gauge. 
05-25-2011, 03:00 PM
#19
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Hmmm... if I had the twinscrew, I wouldn't need to go to Canada... 
Then I could work on a 2 bar EZF chip. (I'd have to put in a switch for the lamda/boost gauge.)
And...with all that power, I could afford to put in a lightweight A/C compressor of some sort, and hook up the rear air unit I have sitting around...
Then I could work on a 2 bar EZF chip. (I'd have to put in a switch for the lamda/boost gauge.)
And...with all that power, I could afford to put in a lightweight A/C compressor of some sort, and hook up the rear air unit I have sitting around...
05-25-2011, 10:46 PM
#21
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Ken,
you just fell down the slope
I've read you writing about your chips.
Colin, haven't heard of the 931 mentioned in your username. Your rear tire is more remarkable.
Regards,
you just fell down the slope
I've read you writing about your chips.
Colin, haven't heard of the 931 mentioned in your username. Your rear tire is more remarkable.
Regards,
Very impressive Ken! Congrats/Grattis! 
05-30-2011, 02:55 PM
#25
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I luv the symmetry of the '86.5 underside, especially with all the 'stuff' deleted. I can spend an hour looking at it under the lift.
Pic of clutch (No-Lift-Shift) switch, PKlutch, and clutch master bulkhead. ABS brain removed as all the wheel sensors, and extension wires need replacing. I can't decide whether to fix the ABS, or delete it. (Maybe put in a rally brake.)
I figured out how to program the ICV to open at WOT - seems to give a little boost (or at least sounds like it does
). Cinched up my 'junk strap' and went for a test drive up my favorite steep twisty road. This road used to be pretty fun in my stripped down '81. 100+ more rwhp, LSD, and a five-point seat belt, at roughly the same weight, makes it scary fun. WOT over 2700 rpm produces a turbine like woosh from the open airbox, with a corresponding Fast & Furious blur of the scenery.
Shifting quickly is iffy (bushings), though. 2 to 3 is fine, but I keep shifting 1-4, and 4-3 instead of 5.
Pic of clutch (No-Lift-Shift) switch, PKlutch, and clutch master bulkhead. ABS brain removed as all the wheel sensors, and extension wires need replacing. I can't decide whether to fix the ABS, or delete it. (Maybe put in a rally brake.
)I figured out how to program the ICV to open at WOT - seems to give a little boost (or at least sounds like it does
). Cinched up my 'junk strap' and went for a test drive up my favorite steep twisty road. This road used to be pretty fun in my stripped down '81. 100+ more rwhp, LSD, and a five-point seat belt, at roughly the same weight, makes it scary fun. WOT over 2700 rpm produces a turbine like woosh from the open airbox, with a corresponding Fast & Furious blur of the scenery.Shifting quickly is iffy (bushings), though. 2 to 3 is fine, but I keep shifting 1-4, and 4-3 instead of 5.
05-30-2011, 03:43 PM
#27
Nordschleife Master
Ken,
Your no lift shift system, how do you do this again?
I know the fundamentals of how it works. But do you cut the EZK or LH relay? Or just trip a sensor to the brains?
I was thinking about this the other day, and was thinking about just setting the disengagement of the rev limiter to redline, and the re-engagement point a little lower.
Basically, hit redline with your hand applying a slight pressure towards the next gear. Once the rev limiter kicks in the power comes off it kicks it out of gear and should instantly go into the next gear, right then the RPMs drop enough and the brain turns the power back on. So it would be no lift/no clutch shift.
little harder on the syncros, but could make for some good acceleration!
Your no lift shift system, how do you do this again?
I know the fundamentals of how it works. But do you cut the EZK or LH relay? Or just trip a sensor to the brains?
I was thinking about this the other day, and was thinking about just setting the disengagement of the rev limiter to redline, and the re-engagement point a little lower.
Basically, hit redline with your hand applying a slight pressure towards the next gear. Once the rev limiter kicks in the power comes off it kicks it out of gear and should instantly go into the next gear, right then the RPMs drop enough and the brain turns the power back on. So it would be no lift/no clutch shift.
little harder on the syncros, but could make for some good acceleration!
05-30-2011, 04:03 PM
#28
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Colin - I use the clutch switch to tell the LH to go to a lower rev limit. Clutch up = 6700 rpm, clutch down = 4800 rpm.
Much better with a new front air dam. ($350, ouch!)
Much better with a new front air dam. ($350, ouch!)
05-30-2011, 04:26 PM
#30
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Pin 15 on the LH2.2 connector, which is normally empty.
In the stock LH code, pin 15 is a coding input (to ground) to disable injector cutoff on decel. (It's used on Volvos w/automatics.) Only works on non-'86.5 LHs with green motherboards. Although the code is unchanged and the board is wired for it, the '86.5 yellow motherboards don't have the electronic components installed.
In the stock LH code, pin 15 is a coding input (to ground) to disable injector cutoff on decel. (It's used on Volvos w/automatics.) Only works on non-'86.5 LHs with green motherboards. Although the code is unchanged and the board is wired for it, the '86.5 yellow motherboards don't have the electronic components installed.