Short-Throw Shifter
05-24-2011, 09:36 PM
#31
I have the 928 Motorsports shifter in my OB, and even with the rear universal being a little wobbly, I wouldn't even consider removing it and putting that awful rowboat paddle stock thing back in. I should also note that my syncro's are not in the greatest shape either.
But I'm also used to the more effort, and shorter notch-ier feel of shifters. All of the cars I drive have at the very least short-throw shifters.
I imagine it will feel better still once I change out the front ball-cup and rear bushings to bronze.
IMO, the shifter is worth the money.
But I'm also used to the more effort, and shorter notch-ier feel of shifters. All of the cars I drive have at the very least short-throw shifters.
I imagine it will feel better still once I change out the front ball-cup and rear bushings to bronze.
IMO, the shifter is worth the money.
05-24-2011, 11:51 PM
#33
Instructor
Ok you have all got me interested. I just picked up a 1990 GT last month and it has the stock shorter shift but I came from a Honda S2000 so this one is like driving a tractor. So my question is, will a short shifter from somewhere like 928 International be different than my GT stock shifter? And if I went with the lizard shifter what do I have to do exactly? Drill holes? Does it come with instructions? Do I have to know the secret handshake to order it? 
05-25-2011, 02:01 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
If you want to experience a really long shift, drive a classic 911!. It has a shifter the size of a walking stick. No quick shifts there! Still, in my 1978 OB (which will get S brakes) I am thinking of the short shifter too. It has very good synchro's and new bushings. But bronze bushings? Where do they go?
05-25-2011, 02:02 AM
#35
Been selling Twinkies on Ebay,
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
Trolls.
I have owned plenty of better-shifting cars. But not yet a better automobile.
05-25-2011, 05:29 AM
#36
Nordschleife Master
Ashmason,
no secret handshake required.
just contact Rog100 on the board here.
It has been awhile since we discussed the pricing so I have forgotten. I think it was around $170 but you cannot quote me on that! As the rear Delirn bushings have been added since that time too.
to describe the differences. The short shifter from 928 intl, 928MS, 928GT, etc. they do shorten the throw without a doubt. But they still have the factory ball cup, and two shift rods with 3 different bushings which can and do fail and wear. One of the bushings I have seen a good portion of it missing on many cars. In order to replace this one, you have to remove the TT.
The shifter I designed is a world apart from even the short shifters offered from others. It eliminates two of the bushings entirely. The most common failure point! And gives a very connected feeling.
IIRC all the other short shifters claim a 30% reduction in throw. My new design is around 65% reduction in throw. Now some may think that because of that much of a reduction the force to shift will be substantially higher. And while there is some additional force needed. You simply cannot force it through the gear, just apply a light amount of pressure and it will guide itself in. Letting the syncros do their job.
To install the shifter, you must remove (or loosen) the center console and yes drill two holes. The template I use is to thread the two bolts which come with the kit through the mounting bar. I then place the bar above where it should be and give each of the bolts a smack with a hammer. This leaves a circle impression in the paint. I then drill the two holes and slide the bar into place and bolt it all up. On 97% of the installs I have done, it is easy to pop off the front shift rod by just turning it in the cabin with a wrench. I did have one car (and heard of others), where the ball cup had been replaced, and the nut not tightened. I lifted the car took a long flat head screwdriver. I then placed that on the outer lip of the ball cup housing and gave a couple smacks without removing the heat shielding or exhaust. It popped off and install was completed.
no secret handshake required.
just contact Rog100 on the board here. It has been awhile since we discussed the pricing so I have forgotten. I think it was around $170 but you cannot quote me on that! As the rear Delirn bushings have been added since that time too.
to describe the differences. The short shifter from 928 intl, 928MS, 928GT, etc. they do shorten the throw without a doubt. But they still have the factory ball cup, and two shift rods with 3 different bushings which can and do fail and wear. One of the bushings I have seen a good portion of it missing on many cars. In order to replace this one, you have to remove the TT.
The shifter I designed is a world apart from even the short shifters offered from others. It eliminates two of the bushings entirely. The most common failure point! And gives a very connected feeling.
IIRC all the other short shifters claim a 30% reduction in throw. My new design is around 65% reduction in throw. Now some may think that because of that much of a reduction the force to shift will be substantially higher. And while there is some additional force needed. You simply cannot force it through the gear, just apply a light amount of pressure and it will guide itself in. Letting the syncros do their job.
To install the shifter, you must remove (or loosen) the center console and yes drill two holes. The template I use is to thread the two bolts which come with the kit through the mounting bar. I then place the bar above where it should be and give each of the bolts a smack with a hammer. This leaves a circle impression in the paint. I then drill the two holes and slide the bar into place and bolt it all up. On 97% of the installs I have done, it is easy to pop off the front shift rod by just turning it in the cabin with a wrench. I did have one car (and heard of others), where the ball cup had been replaced, and the nut not tightened. I lifted the car took a long flat head screwdriver. I then placed that on the outer lip of the ball cup housing and gave a couple smacks without removing the heat shielding or exhaust. It popped off and install was completed.
05-25-2011, 08:34 AM
#37
Addict
Rennlist Member
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05-25-2011, 09:18 AM
#38
Rennlist Member
The guide bushing is what requires TT removal.
05-25-2011, 09:19 AM
#39
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Lizard shifter is $200 and comes complete with the delrin rear bushes.
In stock apart from the rear bushes. The next batch will be here in a couple of days.
In stock apart from the rear bushes. The next batch will be here in a couple of days.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
05-25-2011, 09:23 AM
#40
Rennlist Member
05-25-2011, 09:37 AM
#41
Nordschleife Master
So many posts. So many prior threads.
Remove yours and cut off what you don't want. Shape the top to accept the ****. Cost is $0 if you've got a hacksaw and a file.
Remove yours and cut off what you don't want. Shape the top to accept the ****. Cost is $0 if you've got a hacksaw and a file.
05-25-2011, 10:27 AM
#43
Nordschleife Master
Rog,
Thank you for jumping in here! Maybe you should finally make a posting about that shifter
Jadz and Landseer,
Yes that is the bushing I am speaking of, and as you can see from Landseer's picture, that is one that is bad. The outer rubber doesnt fail. But there is a plastic sleeve that goes inside it which fails.
GlenL,
You can even take your stock one out, and add half an inch (stock is around 1" centerline between pivot holes), between the pivot holes. I did this many times and you end up with the same short shifter as supplied by 928intl etc.
The shifter I designed though is much different from stock. It has a much more connected feel (more like a gated shifter). And the throw is drastically reduced.
Thank you for jumping in here! Maybe you should finally make a posting about that shifter
Jadz and Landseer,
Yes that is the bushing I am speaking of, and as you can see from Landseer's picture, that is one that is bad. The outer rubber doesnt fail. But there is a plastic sleeve that goes inside it which fails.
GlenL,
You can even take your stock one out, and add half an inch (stock is around 1" centerline between pivot holes), between the pivot holes. I did this many times and you end up with the same short shifter as supplied by 928intl etc.
The shifter I designed though is much different from stock. It has a much more connected feel (more like a gated shifter). And the throw is drastically reduced.
05-25-2011, 10:57 AM
#44
Burning Brakes
Ashmason,
no secret handshake required. just contact Rog100 on the board here.
It has been awhile since we discussed the pricing so I have forgotten. I think it was around $170 but you cannot quote me on that! As the rear Delirn bushings have been added since that time too.
to describe the differences. The short shifter from 928 intl, 928MS, 928GT, etc. they do shorten the throw without a doubt. But they still have the factory ball cup, and two shift rods with 3 different bushings which can and do fail and wear. One of the bushings I have seen a good portion of it missing on many cars. In order to replace this one, you have to remove the TT.
The shifter I designed is a world apart from even the short shifters offered from others. It eliminates two of the bushings entirely. The most common failure point! And gives a very connected feeling.
IIRC all the other short shifters claim a 30% reduction in throw. My new design is around 65% reduction in throw. Now some may think that because of that much of a reduction the force to shift will be substantially higher. And while there is some additional force needed. You simply cannot force it through the gear, just apply a light amount of pressure and it will guide itself in. Letting the syncros do their job.
To install the shifter, you must remove (or loosen) the center console and yes drill two holes. The template I use is to thread the two bolts which come with the kit through the mounting bar. I then place the bar above where it should be and give each of the bolts a smack with a hammer. This leaves a circle impression in the paint. I then drill the two holes and slide the bar into place and bolt it all up. On 97% of the installs I have done, it is easy to pop off the front shift rod by just turning it in the cabin with a wrench. I did have one car (and heard of others), where the ball cup had been replaced, and the nut not tightened. I lifted the car took a long flat head screwdriver. I then placed that on the outer lip of the ball cup housing and gave a couple smacks without removing the heat shielding or exhaust. It popped off and install was completed.
no secret handshake required.
just contact Rog100 on the board here. It has been awhile since we discussed the pricing so I have forgotten. I think it was around $170 but you cannot quote me on that! As the rear Delirn bushings have been added since that time too.
to describe the differences. The short shifter from 928 intl, 928MS, 928GT, etc. they do shorten the throw without a doubt. But they still have the factory ball cup, and two shift rods with 3 different bushings which can and do fail and wear. One of the bushings I have seen a good portion of it missing on many cars. In order to replace this one, you have to remove the TT.
The shifter I designed is a world apart from even the short shifters offered from others. It eliminates two of the bushings entirely. The most common failure point! And gives a very connected feeling.
IIRC all the other short shifters claim a 30% reduction in throw. My new design is around 65% reduction in throw. Now some may think that because of that much of a reduction the force to shift will be substantially higher. And while there is some additional force needed. You simply cannot force it through the gear, just apply a light amount of pressure and it will guide itself in. Letting the syncros do their job.
To install the shifter, you must remove (or loosen) the center console and yes drill two holes. The template I use is to thread the two bolts which come with the kit through the mounting bar. I then place the bar above where it should be and give each of the bolts a smack with a hammer. This leaves a circle impression in the paint. I then drill the two holes and slide the bar into place and bolt it all up. On 97% of the installs I have done, it is easy to pop off the front shift rod by just turning it in the cabin with a wrench. I did have one car (and heard of others), where the ball cup had been replaced, and the nut not tightened. I lifted the car took a long flat head screwdriver. I then placed that on the outer lip of the ball cup housing and gave a couple smacks without removing the heat shielding or exhaust. It popped off and install was completed.
05-25-2011, 11:01 AM
#45
Rennlist Member
...GlenL,
You can even take your stock one out, and add half an inch (stock is around 1" centerline between pivot holes), between the pivot holes. I did this many times and you end up with the same short shifter as supplied by 928intl etc.
The shifter I designed though is much different from stock. It has a much more connected feel (more like a gated shifter). And the throw is drastically reduced.
You can even take your stock one out, and add half an inch (stock is around 1" centerline between pivot holes), between the pivot holes. I did this many times and you end up with the same short shifter as supplied by 928intl etc.
The shifter I designed though is much different from stock. It has a much more connected feel (more like a gated shifter). And the throw is drastically reduced.
