FredR

The automatic transaxle is generally reckoned to be stronger than the manual transmission. The only caveat being the flexplate coupling that needs to be reinforced irrespective of whether you supercharge or not if you want to avoid the deadly TBF syndrome.

Rgds

Fred

davek9

Agree with Fred above and I will also add that a Limited Slip Differential (Posi rear) is highly recommended for putting the power to both rear wheels

Lizard928

A couple quick notes,

Given that you're in the UK, you may have to look at the pipes a little due to the booster etc being on the opposite side. Stage 1 is unlikely to be an issue.

Before adding a SC, you need to bring all your mechanicals up to date, fresh knock sensors, Hall effect sensor, reference sensor, all gaskets and seals on the top end should be replaced.

rgs944

As long as AT is in good shape most of the top mechanics say they are well suited for supercharging. Most also say when you get to a stage 3 system you will need to update the 5 speed clutch setup. I have never had a problem with the original clutch but a lot of that likely depends on driving habits. I have always tried to stay away from standing burnouts and I use the extra power mostly at running speeds for low and mid range torque, which I would assume would be less stress on the drive train in general.

vsalvato

I should say rgs944 managed very nicely to describe my own "aim of use" for the SC by stating

stay away from standing burnouts and I use the extra power mostly at running speeds for low and mid range torque

I am from Italy (not UK), hence left drive S4, and here too they have become serious with speed limits and speed traps are located anywhere and tickets are very expensive, sufficient to make everyone a bit more wise when driving around. MyAT is OK as is all the rest of the car; I have some oil leak from the gear oil pan seal, admittedly... and, frankly, the AT suffers a bit of "clunchy" and rough shifting at low revs from 2nd to 3rd speed but I think this to be due to a problem with the vacuum valve/circuit which would need someone very skilled to check and fix, if/as needed. The A/C radiator has a leak and gas refilling does not last more than a few weeks and random use but I am thinking of getting it repaired sometimes and therefore I would like the SC to coexist with it. Obviously if I will embark into a SC project all of the above will be taken care of... probably A/C fixing not being my first priority

Carl Fausett

I don't completely agree. It is true that you should give it a good tune-up before proceeding, but if the sensors Colin speaks of are working fine and the wires are in good condition you can leave them be. About the head gaskets; nope. Experience has taught me that the stock head gaskets can handle some pretty good pressure (we've gone to 14 psi on stock gaskets, others even higher) without failure and most of these SC kits (like ours) range from 6 psi (Stage 1) to 11 psi (Stage 3). Well within their range.

The tune is the key, so if fueled and tuned correctly the stock head gaskets will do just fine. There is always a chance you may do more harm than good taking the heads and intake on and off, so I wouldn't unless you have some other reason to do so.

Just my $.02.

vsalvato

Thanks Carl & others! Very valuable comments. Meanwhile I got Victor's price info (much appreciated...) and I can start figuring out the budget matter. More than anything else I need to start checking possible ways to manage signficicant engine tuning with local laws (much less forgiving than in N Am) and possible issues with inspections (every two years) without thinking of dismantling the SC every time I need to undergo a check... It is definitely not a cheap fix (I never thought it was...), but I am sure that the reward would be fantastic. I am just dreaming of 450 HP...