CIS fuel distrib. individual fuel line adjustment HELP..Fixed?
05-17-2011, 10:53 AM
#31
You were right, I went back and looked at the VIN sticker and it was an '82 I pulled both of those out of. Good call. I coulda sworn it was out of an '84.
05-17-2011, 01:21 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
05-18-2011, 10:07 AM
#34
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Thread Starter
IIRC 4 bar (60 psi) is too high for injector pressure and will flood the engine. Try turning them down to 45 psi. The injector pressure should be equal to the system pressure, minus the control pressure, as adjusted by the position of the air sensor plate. Don't have the charts here at work so going from memory.
Dennis
Dennis
05-18-2011, 10:52 AM
#35
testing the injectors and their pressures now. They all have a beautiful spray pattern but the pressure out the fuel distibutor to the injector is about 85psi with plate fully depressed and they are spraying hard (flooding the cylinder). I will dial this back on each injector to about 45 psi.
05-18-2011, 07:40 PM
#36
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Thread Starter
Need help please. The car won't stay running after I turned back the flow on the injectors. When I start it it revs high for a second then dies. That was the fuel from the cold start valve cause when I unhooked the power to the CSV the car would not start. ***Here is the kicker. I jumpered the fuel pump and set the mix screw to spray a little fuel and removed the air box top. The car started and was just barely running. I THEN PUSHED DOWN ON THE AIR PLATE WITH MY HAND AND THE CAR REVvED UP AND RAN SMOOTHER THAN IT EVER HAS. What do I need to do now? Earlier today I turned back the flow on each injector and balanced them out while observing the spray patterns. Did I turn the flow back too far or is my control pressure too high? I have another WUR that is low control so I will try it. I have to get that air plate to go in a bit more and I think she will run good finally.
Last edited by gbgastowers; 05-18-2011 at 11:10 PM.
05-18-2011, 09:45 PM
#37
First I would make sure the air sensor plate is centered in the venturi, then fine tune the A/F mixture by backing off the adjustment screw so the injectors quit spraying when the pump is jumpered. If that doesn't help, try the WUR with the lower control pressure.
Dennis
Dennis
05-18-2011, 10:17 PM
#38
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Thread Starter
First I would make sure the air sensor plate is centered in the venturi, then fine tune the A/F mixture by backing off the adjustment screw so the injectors quit spraying when the pump is jumpered. If that doesn't help, try the WUR with the lower control pressure.
Dennis
Dennis
05-18-2011, 10:28 PM
#39
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Thread Starter
QUOTE FROM MIKE LABRANCHE "Finally, the throttle/air plate you mentioned is basically trying to meter the air that's entering the engine. As the plate responds to the flow of air, more air is more movement, the rod at one end of the plate pivot arm is moving to signal more fuel required from the FD. But this is in conjuntion with the actual throttle body, connected to the loud pedal. If you just push on the plate without opening the throttle to let more air in, the engine will go rich and die.
05-18-2011, 10:31 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
First I would make sure the air sensor plate is centered in the venturi, then fine tune the A/F mixture by backing off the adjustment screw so the injectors quit spraying when the pump is jumpered. If that doesn't help, try the WUR with the lower control pressure.
Dennis
Dennis
05-18-2011, 11:02 PM
#41
From the video it appears that some of the injectors are running lean (backfiring and missing). Try individually adjusting each injector by increasing the pressure until it evens out or the adjustment makes no difference, then go to the next injector and repeat.
Dennis
Dennis
05-19-2011, 06:38 PM
#42
it doesn't sound too far off now when you rev it at the plate.when its idling now its sounds bad and i'm guessing is running at about 300 rpms.what happens when you make an adjustment with the large idle speed screw to try and increase idle speed ?
05-19-2011, 08:59 PM
#43
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Thread Starter
and am going to turn up the head pressure a bit and see what happens. I may not have had the right size replacement o rings when I re-ringed it and the old ones look great. These are the 8 around the fuel slits.
05-20-2011, 12:18 AM
#44
Race Car
FWIW, I've run both types of FD and was given to understand at one point that the castings with the adjustable ports were installed during factory rebuilds. I suspect though, that it is more like what was mentioned previously- whatever was on-hand...
Will try to chime in if I think of anything that might actually be helpful, but you have some good talent on the thread already. I do still wonder about workign the plate sending a vaccum signal to a distributor that is off by a tooth though.
Will try to chime in if I think of anything that might actually be helpful, but you have some good talent on the thread already. I do still wonder about workign the plate sending a vaccum signal to a distributor that is off by a tooth though.
05-20-2011, 12:32 AM
#45
Rennlist Member
I didn't see in your earlier posts if you had CIS gauge set to test the flow of the system and the WUR? Also, have you verified all vacuum lines are good as well?