CIS fuel distrib. individual fuel line adjustment HELP..Fixed?
#16
Rennlist Member
If you do a mixture test (CO?) you might know whether to make them all leaner or richer? Even a sniff at the exhaust and test for sooty would give you an idea if it was too rich.
My car's distrubtor looks like the black non-adjustable unit in pic above. It also has an electrical connector on its inner side that I believe is something to do with hot starts, that I have not seen on any other 928.
Note also that some 911s used an 8 port distributor with 2 ports unused, but the ones I have seen were black bodied units.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
My car's distrubtor looks like the black non-adjustable unit in pic above. It also has an electrical connector on its inner side that I believe is something to do with hot starts, that I have not seen on any other 928.
Note also that some 911s used an 8 port distributor with 2 ports unused, but the ones I have seen were black bodied units.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If you do a mixture test (CO?) you might know whether to make them all leaner or richer? Even a sniff at the exhaust and test for sooty would give you an idea if it was too rich.
My car's distrubtor looks like the black non-adjustable unit in pic above. It also has an electrical connector on its inner side that I believe is something to do with hot starts, that I have not seen on any other 928.
Note also that some 911s used an 8 port distributor with 2 ports unused, but the ones I have seen were black bodied units.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
My car's distrubtor looks like the black non-adjustable unit in pic above. It also has an electrical connector on its inner side that I believe is something to do with hot starts, that I have not seen on any other 928.
Note also that some 911s used an 8 port distributor with 2 ports unused, but the ones I have seen were black bodied units.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
#18
Rennlist Member
what should I do now? I am thinking about turning it back to where they were because it ran better then. Maybe the ones that were really flowing were the only ones with high enough pressure to run the car and now they all don't have high enough pressure. I guess I should do a volume and spray pattern check with the injectors in the containers.
#19
Rennlist Member
When I got my car it had a bad hot start problem. When i found a disconnected lead down the side of the engine, I found it would plug into the distributor. Hot start problem went away. My car doesnt have any sort of mpg display - no vacuum gauge or whatever it might be.
Have you checked system and WUR pressures, and delivery rate? Without these you are truly pissing in the wind.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
Have you checked system and WUR pressures, and delivery rate? Without these you are truly pissing in the wind.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
When I got my car it had a bad hot start problem. When i found a disconnected lead down the side of the engine, I found it would plug into the distributor. Hot start problem went away. My car doesnt have any sort of mpg display - no vacuum gauge or whatever it might be.
Have you checked system and WUR pressures, and delivery rate? Without these you are truly pissing in the wind.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
Have you checked system and WUR pressures, and delivery rate? Without these you are truly pissing in the wind.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
cold control=19 psi
warm control=44 psi
and it holds pressure for 25 min
I have a new CIS specific fuel pump but I have not checked the delivery rate.
here are the plugs which I cleaned before todays start up. I only ran the car for about 20 min.
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
yes - I did. It was a limited test starting with the #6 cylinder that had the spark plug that always looked new. It had plenty of compression so I did not test the others. I am not using any oil (no smoke)and there are no signs of bad rings(which I replaced a few months ago).
#23
yes - I did. It was a limited test starting with the #6 cylinder that had the spark plug that always looked new. It had plenty of compression so I did not test the others. I am not using any oil (no smoke)and there are no signs of bad rings(which I replaced a few months ago).
#24
Rennlist Member
The pressures look in the ball park - cold control will vary with ambient temp. Cyls 1 and 8 look worst, but if it spent some time idling before shut off, not terrible. The other 6 dont look bad at all. Initially mine was lean - popping on the overrun, and white plugs. Are you sure the cam and spark timing is OK? Is the throttle opening fully?
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
#25
Burning Brakes
yes - I did. It was a limited test starting with the #6 cylinder that had the spark plug that always looked new. It had plenty of compression so I did not test the others. I am not using any oil (no smoke)and there are no signs of bad rings(which I replaced a few months ago).
The engine needs 3 basic things to run: Fuel (Gasoline) - Spark (at the ''right time'') - and sufficient compression.
Not saying compression is your problem, it is still well worth checking all 8 cylinders. Check them cold, on WOT.
Should you have any cylinders which are below the average of your engine, check with oil to rule out piston rings.
Its well worth the time!
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Since I have all the plugs out now I will go borrow the gauge and do it right just to rule it out. The car runs/ran fairly good with one of the WUR's I have. This WUR is set up with lower pressures and the car likes it to where the power loss in minimal.
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The pressures look in the ball park - cold control will vary with ambient temp. Cyls 1 and 8 look worst, but if it spent some time idling before shut off, not terrible. The other 6 dont look bad at all. Initially mine was lean - popping on the overrun, and white plugs. Are you sure the cam and spark timing is OK? Is the throttle opening fully?
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
#29
IIRC 4 bar (60 psi) is too high for injector pressure and will flood the engine. Try turning them down to 45 psi. The injector pressure should be equal to the system pressure, minus the control pressure, as adjusted by the position of the air sensor plate. Don't have the charts here at work so going from memory.
Dennis
Dennis
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
IIRC 4 bar (60 psi) is too high for injector pressure and will flood the engine. Try turning them down to 45 psi. The injector pressure should be equal to the system pressure, minus the control pressure, as adjusted by the position of the air sensor plate. Don't have the charts here at work so going from memory.
Dennis
Dennis
The 60 I referenced was how many mililiters I measured after a certain time. I will check the psi to the injector and go from there. Good info. Gunar