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First start after 15 years parked - Intake Restored

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First start after 15 years parked - Intake Restored

 
Old 05-16-2011, 12:51 AM
  #16  
jmartins
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Thank you very much Hilton for you time.

Yesterday one friend and I removed the panel, console, dash and seats for recovering. We could check wiring and fuse box and we made some electrical tests.
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:01 AM
  #17  
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I would never try to just start an engine that has been sitting for 10 years or more. I would at least remove the plugs (make sure the holes are clean first), put a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and very slowly try turning the engine by hand, feeling how much resistance there was.

Dan
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:08 AM
  #18  
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Jmartins, I agree with Hilton. Why rush it.

This is what I am finding out after a couple weeks of ownership of an old 928: Its not so black magical as people make it out to be. First thing I noticed in the motor compartment is how BIG it was! The Radiator hoses are way in the open. Pull those out and then the radiator and you have a HUGE access area to get to the maintenance of the front part of the motor.
Then if you take off the airbox and injection systems you have TOTAL access. Its pretty easy to take regular care of this car.
It should be not TOO hard to bring this one back using Hiltons out line.
Just make sure you do this: when we were repairing the AC we grabbed a coolant hose and it just broke like a funnel cake. So you need to go over
every hose you see. I wont take this car out of town until EVERY hose, fuel, coolant, etc is replaced and checked.
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:55 AM
  #19  
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JL,

+1 to post #9 & #14 from Chris and Hilton. Just have a look at their signatures and you see the number of 928 they have between them, so some excellent first hand knowledge has been given.

The search function on this forum is your "BEST FRIEND", so use it gain more knowledge and safety procedures.

I list a couple of practical examples that may help you in addition to all the suggestions given and I hope that you are a good DTYer.

Fuel, oil, water and spark are good starting points.

Fuel: Can the fuel hoses take the pressure, are they cracked, flush lines and tank etc. 928 can catch fire if fuel line burst especially if the ignition system is throwing sparks around the engine bay from old broken down insulation. When all checked out you can do a pressure test and leak down test of the fuel system. This will check for external leaks and also injector leaks.

Oil: After 15 years oil will have drained from major lubricated surfaces, especially from around the pistons rings and from the cylinder walls and the carbon deposit will have hardned. Oil down the spark plug holes will ensure that the rings and bores are lubricated and compression can be sufficient built up for starting. I have used a heavier grade of lub oil to get compression up for starting.

The oil will have oxidised and may have formed varnish deposits, so it should be changed.
After you have checked out engine and timing belt by hand turning etc, you can build up oil pressure by use of the starter motor without any compression or firing loading on the bottom end, main bearing, piston rings and cylinder surfaces etc.

If all turns OK with starter motor it would be a good time to take a compression test to see whether you have sufficient compression to fire. This compression test could also indicate leaks from cylinders to jacket water galleries or valve being stuck open.

Water: Radiator, hoses, jacket water galleries within the engine and heads and expansion tank need to be pressure flushed and cleaned. When cleaned of debris and hoses visually checked you can put a pressure test on system. If you don't have a perssure pump you can use a bicycle tube connected between the top radiator hose and the inlet to the engine with a valve in the tube and pump it up to get some pressure and see whether you have any air leaks. The rate that the expanded tube return to its normal diameter will be a good indication of how big the leak could be. Look for water leaks, air bubbles etc., and the soapy water in a hand pump bottle can be useful to pick up the air leaks You will know if you have corroded cylinder gaskets or cylinder head landing if you get oil into the expansion tank.

Spark: Before you try to start the engine I would check whether you have spark to each spark plug by turning over the engine with the starter motor with the spark plugs removed and earthed out on the engine one at a time. Beware of atomisied fuel from spark plug holes whilst doing this test with external spark. Also beware of you earthing out the spark as the voltage is very high and can be very dangerous.

Don't forget the old chinese saying: "Slowly, slowly catchy monkey", don't rush, as Chris as indicated, work through the systems logically and you will get there.

Keep us informed as you have the best collection of world wide 928 knowledge assemble on this forum, from automotive technicians and competent DIYers.

I have not seen any comments from Mrmerlin as yet, Stan where are you?

Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto
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Old 05-16-2011, 05:25 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jmartins View Post
Thank you very much Hilton for you time.

Yesterday one friend and I removed the panel, console, dash and seats for recovering. We could check wiring and fuse box and we made some electrical tests.
don't waste your time and money on this stuff, get this car mechanically sorted first!plenty of guys on here with thousands spent on paintwork interior ect and a motor that still doesn't run. cars can go from a dream to a nightmare fast.good luck with it.
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Old 05-16-2011, 05:59 AM
  #21  
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+1 to posts #9, #14 and #19. You need to work out your plan to resurrect the car and methodically and systematically work through it item by item. Failure to clean or check one thing in a system can mean you go around in circles and don't get anywhere ... slowly ... and expensively! Don't embark on a whole lot of things at the one time, unless you plan a total strip and rebuild, or you'll end up with a scary huge pile of parts and wonder how you'll ever get it all back together.
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:31 AM
  #22  
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For an engine that has sat that long I would actually go a step further.

I would actually remove the plugs and fill each and every cylinder with ATF. I would let it sit for a couple of days seeping out past the rings. I would then slowly turn the engine 180 deg and repeat. You will get some ATF coming out, but not as much as you think.

Then before attempting to crank it do a leakdown test. This will tell you if the piston rings are seized into the piston or if you have a broken ring which means you need to do a full rebuild. I would strongly recommend this action due to the fact that if you do not you risk scoring the cylinder wall(s).
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:49 AM
  #23  
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Thank you all guys that spent time answering my question !

I have experience on modern ECU preparation for Subaru cars and Ford V8 engines. My friend is a very experienced on air cooled VW cars. Porsche is considered exotic cars down here, they costs about USD 300K - 400K with taxes.

Porsche specialized mechanics charge USD 1000/hour labor here in Brazil, so you guys will be very important to me.

I'll follow all suggestions and will post results with pics.

Thank you again !

JL
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:56 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jeff spahn View Post
Umm. No
Okay, seriously I'd do a flow check on the CIS at the injectors to confirm that the fuel distributor is not totally clogged up before trying to start.

If the CIS is in decent shape, I'd change the oil/filter, drain/refill with gas. Install a new fuel filter.

Spray WD-40 in each hole. Turn over by hand. Wash, rinse, repeat.

Unplug the coil wire to the distributor.

Crank the engine confriming oil pressure.

Then let her rip!

But a 33 year old engine, sitting dormant for almost half its life? I would hate to see what the innards look like. But black and sludge comes to mind.
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:44 AM
  #25  
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After all the reading I've done here in the last 4 years, one big question I'd have is condition of the cylinder head / block interface. At-issue is corrosion.

That was driven home to me in the thread GregBBRD produced when he was rebuilding a car for his son.

The second question is ring condition, which was spoken to, above.
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:39 PM
  #26  
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I should also note, that seeing as how I know some of how much BS is required to ship/bring parts into Brazil. You might be better off getting a large order, and then flying to Texas and meeting the crew there. Load it into your suitcase and fly home!
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:01 PM
  #27  
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Here some pics:
Attached Images        
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:48 PM
  #28  
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Sweet! No rub strips
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Old 05-16-2011, 07:01 PM
  #29  
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Yikes, that is a BIG restore project!
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Old 05-17-2011, 01:51 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Lizard931 View Post
Yikes, that is a BIG restore project!
my question about the storage of this car was never answered but i'm guessing its been out in all weathers?definitely get a squirt of oil down each cylinder and turn over by hand before attempting a start. thats a big project but very do-able,as i have said before skip the cosmetics and sort this out mechanically first.keep us posted.
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