Grounding points to be cleaned...
I ordered the shop manuals but have not received them yet, I want to clean then ASAP, is there or does someone have a picture or link/map to their locations...?
thank you...
Excerpt from another post:
GROUND POINTS
Pay close attention to the small ground points throughout the car, if you don’t you’re going to have problems. The problems may show up as intermittent hard starts, rough idle, bad gauge readings as well as poor performance.
BATTERY and GROUND STRAPS
If your battery is not at full charge, with clean terminals and the ground straps are oxidized or corroded, the engine and it’s sensors will not be properly grounded to the chassis and can give you the same problems as listed above.
thank you...
Excerpt from another post:
GROUND POINTS
Pay close attention to the small ground points throughout the car, if you don’t you’re going to have problems. The problems may show up as intermittent hard starts, rough idle, bad gauge readings as well as poor performance.
BATTERY and GROUND STRAPS
If your battery is not at full charge, with clean terminals and the ground straps are oxidized or corroded, the engine and it’s sensors will not be properly grounded to the chassis and can give you the same problems as listed above.
I just went through and installed extra grounds throughout the engine bay. The one extra ground that seems to have helped is the ground from the distributor to the driver valve cover. That one seems to have smoothed out the overall roughness a little bit.
As for factory grounds: main ground strap from passenger side of block (lower) to the chassis. This one routes under the header piping, and gets very corroded. Remember, just because a meter can push 9 volts through a ground cable doesn't mean that cable can carry a load. I went ahead and replaced my main block cable and my battery strap with brand new cabling.
There are several grounds throughout the car. A bunch in the rear, and bunch in the nose, a bunch in the CE area, a bunch around the engine.
The one that recently kicked my butt was the ground for the L-Jet ECU. It's mounted under the aux air valve, and is invisible. I was having a no start gripe, got the engine idling with starting fluid, touched the aux air valve, the car stalled, I found the screw securing the the aux air valve and the L-Jet ground loose and about to fall out. Tightened it, wham, the car runs again.
I spent a lot of time troubleshooting the injection system to no avail. Got lucky when I found that loose ground. My new mantra: Verify ALL grounds before undertaking any troubleshooting.
As for factory grounds: main ground strap from passenger side of block (lower) to the chassis. This one routes under the header piping, and gets very corroded. Remember, just because a meter can push 9 volts through a ground cable doesn't mean that cable can carry a load. I went ahead and replaced my main block cable and my battery strap with brand new cabling.
There are several grounds throughout the car. A bunch in the rear, and bunch in the nose, a bunch in the CE area, a bunch around the engine.
The one that recently kicked my butt was the ground for the L-Jet ECU. It's mounted under the aux air valve, and is invisible. I was having a no start gripe, got the engine idling with starting fluid, touched the aux air valve, the car stalled, I found the screw securing the the aux air valve and the L-Jet ground loose and about to fall out. Tightened it, wham, the car runs again.
I spent a lot of time troubleshooting the injection system to no avail. Got lucky when I found that loose ground. My new mantra: Verify ALL grounds before undertaking any troubleshooting.
In cabin:
2 above central electrical panel
1 on steering column frame
1 in spare tire compartment under the black plastic cover
1 behind the tool kit (battery negative)
In engine compartment:
1 below ABS pump (on outside, in the fender well)
1 on driver side rear of the driver strut tower (where ABS harness is attached)
1 on passenger side, same as above
2 on passenger side, near the "jump-start" point, one is behind it, one is in front of the radiator mounting bracket
1 on front upper cross member, under plastic cover on the left side (amplifier modules for LH?), just to the left of the hood receiver.
1 on passenger side, low on the frame (engine block to ground)
1 under plastic tray covering the windshield wiper motor (kind of a ground...although not welded to frame)
Did I miss any......?
Cheers
Carl
90GT
2 above central electrical panel
1 on steering column frame
1 in spare tire compartment under the black plastic cover
1 behind the tool kit (battery negative)
In engine compartment:
1 below ABS pump (on outside, in the fender well)
1 on driver side rear of the driver strut tower (where ABS harness is attached)
1 on passenger side, same as above
2 on passenger side, near the "jump-start" point, one is behind it, one is in front of the radiator mounting bracket
1 on front upper cross member, under plastic cover on the left side (amplifier modules for LH?), just to the left of the hood receiver.
1 on passenger side, low on the frame (engine block to ground)
1 under plastic tray covering the windshield wiper motor (kind of a ground...although not welded to frame)
Did I miss any......?
Cheers
Carl
90GT
It would be good to put pertinent info like MY in your sig.
Brown is ground, there are more than in that chart that can cause a no-start. Coil wires are prone to corrosion; coil grounds stopped me, at least I think that was it; no problem since.
Brown is ground, there are more than in that chart that can cause a no-start. Coil wires are prone to corrosion; coil grounds stopped me, at least I think that was it; no problem since.



