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napa heat control valve

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Old 09-21-2011, 10:33 AM
  #61  
Herman K
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Default I'm with Alan on this issue..

Originally Posted by Alan
Personally I continue to use the stock valve - mostly they seem to be OK - need periodic replacement - but I expect all types will.


For those of you with permanently off water valves: petcock, wired shut - whatever... you do realize you now really have no temperature control at all...?

In AC mode the AC is always on (unless the evap freezes) and the only way temperature is controlled is by opening the water valve and mixing. Without the ability to open the water valve the only way to regulate temperature is with the blower fan and AC switch - e.g. modulate AC on/off and or reduce the air flow (maybe recirc/vs fresh too) - in any case very manual.


If the system is working effectively the AC should eventually get you uncomfortably cold air blowing on you - it certainly does for me even in Phoenix in summer - it may take a while - but on a long trip and especially out of town - I'd eventually want to be able to warm up that airflow to a comfortable temp. So for me a permanantly closed valve just wouldn't be a good idea.

Alan
In my opinion;

Now that I have my AC working effectively with a clean evaporator and new intake filter installed (as originally designed) it can get uncomfortably cold at times and the ability to blend in some hot air in to that airflow allows me to be comfortable inside the car at any time.

A permanant closed valve will not let you do this it's only a work around method for a system that's not working as it should.
Old 09-21-2011, 10:35 AM
  #62  
Jerome Craig
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Originally Posted by ROG100
I found the closing of the vaccum valve using tie wraps or whatever a PITA.
That's why I have two HCVs. One is my modified "summer" valve and the other is my "rest of the year" HCV. I've got the swap out down to 30 minutes and I like the results. I immediately get ice cold air on the hottest days even if my car - which is black - has been in the sun. I also have my reciculation flap permanently closed so the only air that gets cooled is the air in the cabin. If I want/need fresh air I open the sunroof or crack a window. During the rest of the year I get our all too familiar "whimpy A/C" and heat - which is fine.

Just my $0.02

Jerome
Old 09-21-2011, 10:49 AM
  #63  
Alan
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Originally Posted by Jerome Craig
.... I immediately get ice cold air on the hottest days even if my car - which is black - has been in the sun..... During the rest of the year I get our all too familiar "whimpy A/C" and heat - which is fine.
Jerome
With both of these true - you must have some other functional issue with the AC:

That it can be ice cold yet in stock config is not - implies the water valve turns on when it shouldn't and maybe that the comb flap doesn't work right.

If everything works your AC should be too cold for comfort on any decent length run...

Alan
Old 09-21-2011, 11:53 AM
  #64  
Jerome Craig
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Alan,

I immediately get ice cold air because my summer HCV is modified with a tie wrap to keep it fully closed. And you're correct - my comb flap doesn't work. I cut and capped the line a while back. I have all of the diaphrams I need to repair the leaking vacuum pods.

I know I have vacuum leaks and maybe a bad vacuum solenoid or two. I have Wally's and Dwayne's procedure for the HVAC system but unfortunately was not able to go through everything as I should. So the modifications were necessary to survive this year's blistering summer heat. There were many weekends when I wanted to go through the HVAC system but it would be well over 100 degrees in my garage!

As for the A/C temperature - yes it can get very cold in my car - but I'll take that over luke warm on a 105 degree day! The fan is almost always on the lowest setting. As with most upkeep items, I prioritize based on importance. This summer it was more important to have really cold air in my daily driver, even if it meant having a system that was not operating like it did when the car was new.
Old 09-21-2011, 12:59 PM
  #65  
Alan
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Well - really the good news is you know that the basic refrigeration loop works pretty well - just the water valve & vents (maybe vacuum). Is the comb flap fixed in the "bypass mode" - air direct to the console vent via the evaporator - that would get you the best cooling. I believe default (no vac) is non-bypass

Alan
Old 05-23-2012, 10:36 PM
  #66  
Imo000
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Originally Posted by Jim Devine
I think this is what Roger is referring to- it's an exact
fit- just uses a cable. If you don't want/ need the blend
feature of the vacuum one this should do it.

http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/imag...1630166TKU.JPG
What car is this for and what is the part number?
Old 05-24-2012, 04:19 PM
  #67  
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part number is 944 572 085 02 we sell for $24.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:28 PM
  #68  
soontobered84
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How about something like this that Brad posted on the OC forum:

http://www.thermotion.com/topic/19-a...rol-valve.aspx



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