No Eletrical Power
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Johnson City, TN
Grounds can show near-zero resistance on a meter which perform tests with very little current, but fail to pass enough electricity in a normal run situation.
Battery ground strap and engine-to-frame groundstrap are crucial and you've mentioned replacing the first. When these have been bad, I've found less than battery voltage (as wally says different test bulb brightness)
I love Wally's troubleshooting lists, btw.
Good luck, you will find the cuprit(s)
Battery ground strap and engine-to-frame groundstrap are crucial and you've mentioned replacing the first. When these have been bad, I've found less than battery voltage (as wally says different test bulb brightness)
I love Wally's troubleshooting lists, btw.
Good luck, you will find the cuprit(s)
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From: Spartanburg SC
thanks got the title changed at least :0
The first thing I did was replace the battery ground strap. I got a 4G cable from advanced auto. it is not the braided kind, but a multistrand cable. I also RnR the ground points last fall, but given this is a 928, probablly want hurt to do all that again. I read somewhere that ground issues can cause very strange behaviors.
The first thing I did was replace the battery ground strap. I got a 4G cable from advanced auto. it is not the braided kind, but a multistrand cable. I also RnR the ground points last fall, but given this is a 928, probablly want hurt to do all that again. I read somewhere that ground issues can cause very strange behaviors.
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From: Spartanburg SC
Mrmerlin I assume you are talking about the ignition switch. I did replace the starter and solenoid thinking that was the issue. Guess it is time to take the pod apart again. I am getting good at that task. I just hate getting the three screws in at the bottom.... on reassmebly.
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There has been some discussion that there are poor quality ignition switches being sold.......before pulling apart the pod. You can from under the pod pop off the connecter and wiggle it down far enough to plug in a new electric ignition switch which you turn with a screwdriver. That way you can be SURE that a new switch will fix it !
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From: Spartanburg SC
Ok got power back. Installed the CE, but removed the top row relays. Was able to turn the lights on and keep them on. Also was able to spin the starter by jumping.
I will have to do more digging. I did find a lamp, but can't get to that until friday.
I will have to do more digging. I did find a lamp, but can't get to that until friday.
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Intemittent power loss is an open circuit issue...
Short circuits are characterized by sparks/arcs, blown fuses & dead batteries - this isn't your issue... so ...stop looking for this issue..
So what you are looking for here is an intermittent open circuit - not a short ... Wally was leading you in the right direction - just do what he suggested and report back...
Did the ground strap help... seems not - but wasn't very definitive
Likely culprits in order:
1. Ground Strap
2. Ignition Switch
3. Supply connection problem - somewhere between Batt+ & CE Panel
4. Battery failure (high resistance)
Don't work on 3.. until 1. & 2. are resolved... (4. is unlikely in this case for your symptoms)
For ignition switch - measure voltage on top of CE panel whern the dash lights go out - is it still 12v - if yes its likely it is the switch (wiggle it / measure ignition supply voltage)
Alan
Short circuits are characterized by sparks/arcs, blown fuses & dead batteries - this isn't your issue... so ...stop looking for this issue..
So what you are looking for here is an intermittent open circuit - not a short ... Wally was leading you in the right direction - just do what he suggested and report back...
Did the ground strap help... seems not - but wasn't very definitive
Likely culprits in order:
1. Ground Strap
2. Ignition Switch
3. Supply connection problem - somewhere between Batt+ & CE Panel
4. Battery failure (high resistance)
Don't work on 3.. until 1. & 2. are resolved... (4. is unlikely in this case for your symptoms)
For ignition switch - measure voltage on top of CE panel whern the dash lights go out - is it still 12v - if yes its likely it is the switch (wiggle it / measure ignition supply voltage)
Alan
Last edited by Alan; May 12, 2011 at 03:07 PM.
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From: Spartanburg SC
Hey Alan;
thanks for the advice. Your explaniation of an open circut made a lot of sense to me. (my light bulb go off to where I see the light) The ground strap replacement did not help. It was replaced.
the other thing I did last night was replace the positive terminal. The one I was using was picked up at an local autoparts store, and it was covered in epoxy. it looked like this.
I don;t think I was getting a good contact with the epoxy. I replaced it with a "heavy duty" battery terminal. So Item 3 may have been my issue after all.
I also think the ignition switch is suspect. Right now, things are working again, but I am not fully back together yet either.
thanks though your comments make a good bit of sense, and I will do what Wally suggests, but I have to expereince the problem again.
thanks for the advice. Your explaniation of an open circut made a lot of sense to me. (my light bulb go off to where I see the light) The ground strap replacement did not help. It was replaced.
the other thing I did last night was replace the positive terminal. The one I was using was picked up at an local autoparts store, and it was covered in epoxy. it looked like this.
I don;t think I was getting a good contact with the epoxy. I replaced it with a "heavy duty" battery terminal. So Item 3 may have been my issue after all.
I also think the ignition switch is suspect. Right now, things are working again, but I am not fully back together yet either.
thanks though your comments make a good bit of sense, and I will do what Wally suggests, but I have to expereince the problem again.
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Hey Alan;
thanks for the advice. Your explaniation of an open circut made a lot of sense to me. (my light bulb go off to where I see the light) The ground strap replacement did not help. It was replaced.
the other thing I did last night was replace the positive terminal. The one I was using was picked up at an local autoparts store, and it was covered in epoxy. it looked like this.
I don;t think I was getting a good contact with the epoxy. I replaced it with a "heavy duty" battery terminal. So Item 3 may have been my issue after all.
I also think the ignition switch is suspect. Right now, things are working again, but I am not fully back together yet either.
thanks though your comments make a good bit of sense, and I will do what Wally suggests, but I have to expereince the problem again.
thanks for the advice. Your explaniation of an open circut made a lot of sense to me. (my light bulb go off to where I see the light) The ground strap replacement did not help. It was replaced.
the other thing I did last night was replace the positive terminal. The one I was using was picked up at an local autoparts store, and it was covered in epoxy. it looked like this.
I don;t think I was getting a good contact with the epoxy. I replaced it with a "heavy duty" battery terminal. So Item 3 may have been my issue after all.
I also think the ignition switch is suspect. Right now, things are working again, but I am not fully back together yet either.
thanks though your comments make a good bit of sense, and I will do what Wally suggests, but I have to expereince the problem again.
The best real option is a new cable complete from battery to starter. Whether you use a Genuine cable or not is your call. There are certainly suppliers who can offer aftermarket options, but don't skimp on cable size. Four gauge would be absolute minimum and two gauge would be better. I often look at welding cable for its flexibility, and at marine cables since I know places nearby that will make one "just right". The better marine cables are thin-strand cable with tinned copper conductors, so future corrosion is avoided. The ends are solder-potted and sealed with adhesive-lined shrink tubing. For the part under the car I'd be tempted to add an additional layer of that shrink to it just because it's exposed on the frame rail and across behind the cross-member to the starter. I also hate doing the same job again someday, so best to do it correctly now.