Skiviking

Trip,
There is a wealth of info from the members here that can help in steering you towards your purchase. But in the end only you know to pull the trigger. Some of us have had well maintained 928s from day one...and some of us had a certain amount of cash and had to spend it wisely to get us in the cars we love and hate sometimes..lol I went the low cost route for my first because it was a good price that I could afford and if the car went belly up before I was done I could part it and make my cash back. I'm personally glad that I went that route because it would drive and then something needed to be fixed or researched why it wouldn't work. WIth help from here I drove it for a couple years before putting it up to make it into a track car since it would never be a nice daily driver without a LOT of resto. I bought my second and got a good deal but still spent more than a couple thou. I have driven it now 3 years and put over 30,000 on it.. All the prior learning with the cheaper car has allowed me to stay up with any problems the 2nd has had ...though few... I haven't had to have it towed and paid big bucks to have someone fix it, as 99% of the work, I have been able to do it...thanks to everyone here and our suppliers like 928RUS. However you choose to go..have fun...enjoy your ownership and know if anyone here can help you they will... it might cost you some friendly teasing or ribbing...but roll with it cause your in the same POOL with all of us! Best of Luck...plus...if I was to do it again..and had your choice of a 928..I think I would have sprung for it...

danglerb

Worldwide there were a total of about 55k 928's made from 78 to 95, with something like a little over half still around, and something like 16k of those located in north America. A fair number of parts are common to other Porsche models like the 911 and 944, many are unique to the 928, and tiny few are generic like tires, light bulbs, and windshield wipers. Porsche will be the only supplier for a number of parts, and a fair number of parts are NLA. Porsche has the highest markup on parts of any manufacturer, we buy some Mercedes parts to save a few bucks when we can.

Cutting corners does not work well on a 928. We are in general a cheap bunch, so many things have been tried to save a buck. Ford pickup motor mounts instead of $300 a pair Porsche versions, but in the course of fixing a neglected car the combined cost of smaller parts can be staggering. A good rule of thumb is that every dollar the cost of a used 928 is reduced from the price of a NICE 928 is going to cost you $3 in parts to make yours nice. Almost nothing in the way of fixing something cheaply works on a 928, well.

OTOH there is nothing else really like a 928 in really fine condition.

My best advice, buy one well within your budget in the best running condition you can, and make it your 928 education, then later on take plenty of time and buy the keeper.

LUCKYJACKASS

Well, the fuel system may be more complicated in theory, but I'll take my metal fuel lines and only 2 deteriorating rubber hoses under the hood over all those 2" long rubber hoses needing to be replaced at each injector on the US model any day. I've seen under the hood of the US model, and there's less crap in the way on the sides of the motor in a Euro. I'm no expert 928 guy, but I'll take my overpriced Euro over any US model up to 86. Those extra 100 ponies just do it for me - different strokes for different folks...or I guess I should say different lifts for different folks.

Landseer

I don't have CIS.

Rubber injector hose replacement is a 90 minute job.

I do have 16V USA and 84 Euro 5 spd, + a couple 32V cars.

Hands down, best fun is with 84 USA w/89 automatic. My favorite. The early engine + the new valve body and shift points is a crazy combo, even at lower hp, because of the snap shifts at higher rpm.


Different strokes like you said!

Trip..

I'm about to go look at this car. I'll take tons of pics.

Any other suggestions?

Landseer

Good luck with the review!

Euro S in running condition is very desireable.

I like having the owner drive me around and show me through the gears.
Cold, a shift into second is likely tricky.
Same with a 3 to 2 downshift --- often a grind.
Let him show you how he manages it.

Mine do it, and get better after 10 minutes of warming or so.

See if he will pull the carpet back and show the CE fuse panel to you.
Look for any obvious burns along the fuse row.
You won't be able to see the lower plug row very well due to the bottom cover, but slip fingers under the foam pad on just to feel for moisture ( near the wood panel, where passenger heels rest)

Trip..

Great tips! Thank you.

I was planning on having him drive it first, I want to see if he beats on it while it's cold. I like to have the seller drive just so I can see his/her habits.

I looked at buying an Rx-7 a few years ago and after about 15 seconds after the car was started he proceeded to show me how high it can rev... Took it past 10k on a 40 degree day... After he told me "These can take it, that's how they're supposed to be driven" I didn't buy his car. It was a slug anyway...

James Bailey

One way to look at the added value of a Euro S is what would it cost to ADD the 80 HP to a USA car....

Trip..

I agree!

If this car doesn't have the M28-11 I'm walking away from it.

Trip..

Is the option code list in the back under the carpet? I just did a quick search, but I'm coming up empty. I would keep searching, but I'm running low on time.

Thanks Guys.

Jadz928

Yes. What options are you looking for?

James Bailey

Nope not on the early cars...besides you MUST look at the engine numbers on the block. Also note the odometer reading is not true miles if it reads miles

Trip..

I knew to look at the engine code itself on the right front of the block. But where is the code list on older cars? I'm trying to find out if the car came with a lsd...

There is a code stamped on the transaxle correct? Where is that code as well?

Thanks.

Landseer

Very bottom. Seen from laying underneath.

No option list until sometime in 84 I think.

Get VIN, somebody here will run it on the Porsche PET program 7+ or something.

Its 30 years old. Look for the integrity of what is there.

You won't know about LSD unless you peform some tests or open the cover on back. Might have it and slip anyway due to clutch wear. Least of your worries. You could get on a gravel hill and try to start out. It'll dig a hole if it doesn't have lsd.

Jadz928

If LSD, the stamp on the transaxlle should read G28/??-12 (the dash one-two is the LSD modifyer)

Or jack up the rear and spin the wheels. If they go in the same direction, LSD

Trip, I'm by myself at work today. Feel free to call with any questions 804- three four nine one zero three five