Gas smell from Carbon canisters
#18
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UH..if the smell is at the back of the car i doubt it is coming from the Y pipe in the front?
...unless your fans are running?
Liquids drip down and smells drift downwind.
perhaps a crack in the cross over pipe that vents one side of the tank to the other during fueling?
The seal around the fuel level sender "nut" in the trunk area is bad..and perhaps the fire seal above it in the trunk area has come un seated?
Over fill tank and lines??
nice picture Maine!
Only smells when it is running and mostly smells at the back of the car.
Liquids drip down and smells drift downwind.
perhaps a crack in the cross over pipe that vents one side of the tank to the other during fueling?
The seal around the fuel level sender "nut" in the trunk area is bad..and perhaps the fire seal above it in the trunk area has come un seated?
Over fill tank and lines??
nice picture Maine!
#19
+ 928 x 10^928
I always, always, always, do the above. And, I too, have caught small leaks. Regardless of whether you've got new fuel lines, always do the pressurized leak test with the FP relay bypassed. The injector o-rings can leak if you've just put in the rails and/or you might not have tightened-down one of the line couplings enough.
Fuel leaks are no joke.
I always, always, always, do the above. And, I too, have caught small leaks. Regardless of whether you've got new fuel lines, always do the pressurized leak test with the FP relay bypassed. The injector o-rings can leak if you've just put in the rails and/or you might not have tightened-down one of the line couplings enough.
Fuel leaks are no joke.
#20
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Pull the fuel pump relay and look at the back. It should look just like the picture below. Locate the 87 pin and the 30 pin/terminal; the back of the relay has the pin numbers on it. Then locate the female terminals for those two male terminals in the fuse panel relay socket from which you pulled the relay. Look carefully. Be exact. Remember that the relay was probably not 'right-side-up' in the panel.
Plug in your jumper wire FIRST into the female terminal for pin 87. THEN plug the other end of the wire into the terminal for pin 30. Always do it in that order. Not the reverse. Pin 30 is 12v power so that's what you want plugged in last. If you plug it in first then the other end of the jumper is hot while you are fumbling with it to get it plugged in. Bad Juju that.
#21
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switched test lead
I use a long length of heavy cable (to avoid voltage drop) with spade terminals at one end and a heavy duty switch at the other.
A long lead means you get the convenience and safety of turning on and off close to fuel pumps if you want to test and listen, and close to any area you want to observe for leaks, which allows quicker shut off.
Plug in with the switch off .. and then switch on and off to to test when you need to.
A long lead means you get the convenience and safety of turning on and off close to fuel pumps if you want to test and listen, and close to any area you want to observe for leaks, which allows quicker shut off.
Plug in with the switch off .. and then switch on and off to to test when you need to.
#22
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#23
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idea. "Gut" an old relay leaving the tabs installed and attach the wires to the appropriate 2 terminals. Its always a PITA fumbling around with 2 spade connectors trying to get them orientated and in the correct holes while you hold up the wooden fuse panel cover with your head, in the middle of a cold, windy, rainy night in the parking lot of a gas station.
#24
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idea. "Gut" an old relay leaving the tabs installed and attach the wires to the appropriate 2 terminals. Its always a PITA fumbling around with 2 spade connectors trying to get them orientated and in the correct holes while you hold up the wooden fuse panel cover with your head, in the middle of a cold, windy, rainy night in the parking lot of a gas station.
#26
Hi MainePorsche,
Can you send details of all other numbered items in this great pic. I have noticed fuel smell and usually only when I have completely filled the tank. If I leave sitting for a small period of time the cabin has strong fuel smell and the fuel smell also seems to be coming from the front right of car. Cannot detect any fuel vapours from rear of car and cannot see any obvious fuel leaks. I am guessing it is probably a broken Y-piece so will pull the wheel and inner wheel arch guards out and check. Great pic BTW. Very informative.
Cheers
Tony
S4 MY89 RHD
Can you send details of all other numbered items in this great pic. I have noticed fuel smell and usually only when I have completely filled the tank. If I leave sitting for a small period of time the cabin has strong fuel smell and the fuel smell also seems to be coming from the front right of car. Cannot detect any fuel vapours from rear of car and cannot see any obvious fuel leaks. I am guessing it is probably a broken Y-piece so will pull the wheel and inner wheel arch guards out and check. Great pic BTW. Very informative.
Cheers
Tony
S4 MY89 RHD
#27
.......and here is a pic of my failed Y-connector. I am going to go down the path of a brass T connector and some barbed fittings. I saw an example of such a fix here in Rennlist. Looked like a more permanent replacement versus another plastic piece. So off the the plumbing suppliers this morning :-)
Cheers
Cheers
#28
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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idea. "Gut" an old relay leaving the tabs installed and attach the wires to the appropriate 2 terminals. Its always a PITA fumbling around with 2 spade connectors trying to get them orientated and in the correct holes while you hold up the wooden fuse panel cover with your head, in the middle of a cold, windy, rainy night in the parking lot of a gas station.
Dave, great idea there! Besides being able to remotely turn the connection on and off while you are back near the fuel pump I can see it as a safe way to do test from a distance is fire is a concern. Looks like you used some heavy gauge speaker wire.