My steering rack is out of the car for replacement.

Since I'm so close to them, I want to change the motor mounts and the engine oil pan gasket.

How do you remove the pan while holding the engine from the bottom? Looks like the cross member needs to be out of the way for the pan to be removed but both motor mounts are sitting on it.

Thanks.

Michel
928 S4 ROW
Quebec - Canada

 

You don't, support it from the top.

 

For removing the crossmember and changing the oil pan gasket, I described how I supported the engine from below in this thread... see post #2...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...k-washers.html

 

The 'cork' gasket can be replaced without fully dropping the oil pan.

Search for Garth.....he's the one who had success.

Personally I removed the oil pan and replaced the gasket with the silicone gasket and stud kit.

More ways than one to skin this cat

 

I also wanted to take a look at the thrust bearing while I'm there....

 

If you need a engine lift I have one

 

I made mine... Of course I've yet to use it on a 928...

It cost me about 30 bux in materials.

Harbor Freight has them for about what it costs to make one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

 

I have started this project and went through a number of posts and YouTube, but they seem to have some important differences. I have already removed the starter, sway bar and ready to drop the steering rack. Is there an up to date procedure that accessible for me?

 

I have one of the older versions of this. I cut about 3 feet of it off, and welded on end plates to make it shorter and much lighter. easier to lift into place.

 

On my '86, I roughly followed the directions on these two webpages. I don't know enough 928 to know if this will work on your 82 without deviation.

https://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc_mm.html

https://928intl.com/tips/MotorMounts.htm

 

I just used a couple of 4x4s cut to appropriate length and with 1/2" eye bolts/fender washers/nuts along with some "quick links" from Home Depot. It's a piece of cake to raise the engine slightly that way.

The process is pretty self-explanatory but I highly recommend you closely study the WSM not just for the process but for the parts it recommends be replaced, and also its additional tips such as which components need anti-seize (and which flavor to use) plus a host of other important info, not least of which are torque values for everything and the front suspension settling/tightening procedure. Get it from the horse's mouth! The only deviation here would be using Roger's oil pan gasket, which I highly recommend, and use whatever torque there that Roger recommends (as I recall quite a bit less than stock torque). Also going back to the anti-seize comment, Roger sells the Porsche recommended stuff (Molykote) in the two needed flavors and I swear by it. AND get some DC 100 to smear on rubber components to protect and prolong their life.

I installed Roger's seal five years ago and not a drop yet. While you're at it, consider a few items: New oil pickup tube seal, new motor mounts (and transmission mounts too, they go together), refinish motor mount cross bar, new inner and outer tie rods and boots, Delrin replacement rack mounts from Roger, new steering coupler, new engine ground strap while you're there. And while you're messing with power steering replace (or have rebuilt) both PS lines and toss in a new PS fluid reservoir. And because you'll be loosening up and removing the front A-arms, you'll want a special wrench for the upper A-arm nuts which makes that job easy (a few searches will turn that up for you) and of course once you go that far, you might consider a front suspension refresh: shocks and their related parts, new arms with fresh bushings from 928 International, all new nuts/bolts hardware, caliper refresh, repaint the springs, clean up the dust shields, install SS brake lines, new bearings and new pads/discs. And new lower ball joints if (uh oh!) you might still have the original aluminum versions. Go crazy and fix/restore the cooling air hose from the left front fenderwell to the alternator and its associated temp sensor, and even consider replacing those old broken up fender liners (they are all available for the 83 and presumably that means 82 also, and at least a few years ago were not expensive). Oh and if you go that far, look closely at the bottom side of the spindles for wear from the bearings - once they are worn they need to be replaced, unfortunately, and big bucks, but 928 International might have some low mileage/serviceable used ones.

Edit - while you have the starter out take a close look at the front-of-engine harness where it attaches to the starter and also where it attaches to the alternator and oil pressure sender, plus up at the 14-pin. You're looking for any visible connector corrosion, flaked off insulation, or especially on the lower part of the engine where it's soaked in engine oil, excessively soft insulation -- all of which means consider getting a new one. And also closely check out the positive battery cable as it goes across the engine crossbar, especially where it's held down with a P-clamp, as that's exactly where I found flaking, cracked and brittle insulation showing that the cable needed to be replaced (fire hazard!!)

 

From RJTW above, that a pretty good shopping list. If the budget allows, replace the things mentioned that you can afford. Seriously consider replacing ALL the power steering hoses, reservoir with new, Roger has good rebuilt pumps. If you don’t, you’ll just find yourself revisiting that system a few more times.
The lower connecting rod bearings can be removed, checked for wear while the pan is completely off, but ONLY attempt this if you have sufficient ground clearance to work without having work space contention.

 

Thank you very helpful

 

@rjtw Thank you for the detail response. I spent a lot with Roger to get my 82 working well. Already did SS brake lines, new high pressure hose, new regulator, and outsource new clutch work and alignment. The car is Weissach edition with only 66K miles, but saw some bad storage with the last owner. There was a 2004 extension refresh that include new vacuum lines, fuels brakes, and remanufacturing steering rack, new radiator and clutch. I am planning on redoing the rack bushings while there and I look at your other suggestions. Have not found the specific WSM reference on the various sites host the docs but look again.

 

I have a Quickjack setup that gives me 24inch clearance, is that enough? BTW The compression and cylinder walls look great