going to replace my rear pads and discs on my 81 tomorrow, any advice ,pitfalls ect or is it straight forward easy job?

 

Be careful with the Pad Wear and other sensors if that year has them they like to crumble. Open the Brake fluid reservoir and put a towel around it in case of overflow. You can also use turkey baster to get some excess fluid out as well. Other than that it's easy to change pads on 928. Do the fronts as well.
Good Luck

 

lots for brake clean!

 

cheers i've ordered fronts but will not be in until tuesday.it has wear indicators but some previous numpty has disconnected them and bound them together causing the warning light to be on all the time.i have seperated the wires as it goes to each wheel recently but warning light still on.might see cause of it with the full brake overhaul planned now.hopefully all goes easy on rears tomorrow.

 

Brake wear indicators are open-to-alarm. Each 'sensor' is a wire looped through the little bakelite/phenolic block. When the pad wears enough, the little block touches the rotor and eventually wears through, cutting the wire and opening the electrical loop. Get new sensors whenever you buy pads.

I can usually save a few of the old sensors and reuse them. Then the new ones go in the spares bin for next time. I know that I'll need them at some point.


On your project: I find that an impact screwdriver is the weapon of choice for getting the little screws that hold the rotor. Impact screwdriver is a tool that holds a screwdrivere bit, and a whack with the hammer twists the bit slightly. The coincidental impact from the hammer amd the twist mean that the Phillips bit won't walk out of the screw and risk rounding the slots. Impact also tends to jar loose any corrosion that may have developed between the screw and the rotor. I keep spares of tthose screws too.

Also-also-- Good time to paint the new rotor hats and vanes today before they go on tomorrow. I like the brush-on Rustoleum "hammered black" finish you can buy at Home Depot. A couple cheap throw-away brushes and you'll be good to go. The "hammered black" has a gray veining to it that hides a tremendous amount of brake dust.

Of course, I decided this time to deviate from previous pattern and try some spray-can "wheel silver" and clearcoat to match the color of the painted wheels on my car. If it doesn't come out just right, I still have some Rustoleum "hammered black" left to hide the silver. Anyway, painted almost always looks better than rusty/dirty. Oh, and don't paint the mounting face area where the rotor slips on the hub, or where the wheel fits on the rotor face.

 

as always thanks doc.good point on the impact driver i must lay one of those on for tomorrow.never painted the rotors before but it would be nice if it doesn't look rusty and old in no time.

 

Compressing the pistons will for sure overflow the res. I would take a turkey baster and remove/save half of the fluid in the reservoir. Cover anything within range of the baster as you do this. And put a towel around the res too.

 

what i usually do is dip a clean small piece of towel into the reservoir to soak most of the old fluid then i can push back pistons without overflow.i will top up and flush fresh fluid through the system after pads are fitted...tks

 

As long as the calipers don't get stuck it's one of the easiest jobs on the 928 IMHO

 

well im looking forward to an easy job, fitted timing belt and new tensioners earlier in the week! an all day job but would be much faster next time 5 years time will be time enough for the next time me thinks

 

rear pads fitted old ones had started to break up and crumble came out in about 20 pieces.cleaned up all parts in this area while i was at it pins,anti rattle plates ect all cleaned up on the spinning stone (bench grinder)and repainted black easiest job on the car so far.waiting for the rest of the brake parts to arrive on tuesday.

 

i just used a jumper and removed my pad sensors. i always check my pads, on any car, so not worth the expense in my book.