When we have a pin or any thing else round that just wont come out of a hole, here is what we do.

This works really well when you have access to both sides and on something as big a the pin.

Cut the pin (in this case) as close as you can, drill a hole at least 3/4 of the diameter and then weld the hole up with a MIG.
When it cools it will shrink and most times just fall out, I have only had one I had to do that two times on.

Sounds strange, but it works.

A good MIG is one thing that is a absolutely needed to work on old cars.

 

?

The new welded in metal will shrink and pull it in..right?

 

Greg,

I like the idea, but the corrosion on this piece is in the hub carrier.
That would be a heck of a long hole to drill. Additionally, with heat, you run the risk of melting the lower control arm bushings. This then requires the removal of the arm, and gets more extensive.

 

I am not saying it is easy, or cheap, and I do big welds in steps, most times I never get the weld finished before it falls out, weld for a few seconds until the heat builds up and let it cool, repeat until done.

 

Yes, it shrinks it.

 

dont forget that there are 2 holes on the underside of the hub carrier , the pin is easily viewed and PB blaster can be sprayed into, onto the pin.

At the worst you need a new hub carrier and lower control arm for each side,
plus 2 new used pins.

use antiseize on the pins before you install them,
also use thick grease to hold in the beveled washers

 

Thank you guys for all your advices.

The shocks are installed correctly - base on the right side.

I'll try to find some torch (ask some friends) and a air hammer (rental).

For now, I don't want to remove the entire suspension and hub from the car.

If you think of any more trick, let me know please.

Thanks again.

 

It might be worth trying to cut the pins in half thru the opening in the upright, so that you are only hammering on half the pin at once.

 

I'll second this suggestion.

 

Are you talking about the hole in the middle of the hub section?
The car is on jack stands and unfortunately I don't think I have enought height to be able to go there.

 

It took an air hammer to get mine out down at DFW GTG. Coated them with anti seize and they should be good to go in 10 years. My car was a SoCal car too.

 

A certain Rennlister who lived briefly in Texas, but who now lives back in Cali and who shall remain nameless put his rear shocks in 180 out. I wouldn't have believed it could be done had I not seen it with my own eyes. He came up to a DFW monthly GTG that turned into a tech session at Sean's place. We offered to swap them around for him before he drove back, but he was determined to fix it himself when he got home.

I had to use the weight of the car on a wrench(with a jack) to get one of my pins to break loose. I then spun it with an impact and fed it lots of PB Blaster at the same time before it could be driven out.

 

Well lack of determination is not one of his flaws, we will say that much about him.

 

Used a wrench that slides over the pin use the washer and nut as a puller add more wrenches when it starts to come out.

Good luck

 

I understand that the welding trick is applied on a pin that has been cut free by hacksaw on both sides of the shock, leaving a bit of the pin inside the shockbushing, where it sits rocksolid. Than you drill a hole through the remaining part of the pin and weld it up. Problem is that it will burn the rubber bushing from the shock. I don't think this is a part that can be bought new for replacement. Or is it?