Go-carter

Yeah, that's my (now new)plan. Fixing up the 4,7 heads(which HOPEFULLY is just a bent valve), and putting the 4,5 CIS spider on top of that. Going to wash it one more time today, and remove the spider and other LH-accesories that is on the engine.

If I have the time before work today, I'll try run a comp test with oil in the cylinder to determin if it's valve or rings.

Rich9928p

I don't think that you understood my meaning. Unless your engine is a Euro S (M28/11 or M28/12), the intake runners and throttle body are quite a bit smaller. To get the power out of the Euro heads, you need improved air intake.

The only way to get the improved airflow is to locate and install the intake tubes and throttle body from a Euro S (M28/11 or M28/12) motor.

Go-carter

Well, yeah, I sort of knew that. The problem is that I can't get hold of any S-spiders here right now, so I figured until I get one I can just use the 4,5 runners? Or?

Rich9928p

Your old runners and throttle body will work .... just keep on the look-out for the Euro S parts.

Go-carter

But would the S-spider fit on a 5litre, like the one you are using? Or do you have to make up a complete new intake? Just curious

Didn't have time to do much with the engine today, other than removing the distributor. Going to remove the spider, and check out the valve tomorrow

Go-carter

Haven't pulled the head yet, but when I've hand-cranked the motor I managed to get 4 bar at other cylinders, but absolutely zero at cylinder #1. Poured some oil in the intake, didn't seem like the intake valve leaked, and when the oil got to the cylinder, I wtill had absoluteley zero in compression. Sooo.... hopefully a bent valve? Is there a way to see if it's bent when I get the heads off?

Bent the valves on my CBR1100xx engine last year, and when I swapped heads on that one this winter it was impossible to see with the bare eye that it was bent. Had to pour white spirit on them, and sit over night, to see that they weren't tight.

Ad0911

When you lift the heads, you may want to do that with the engine upside down in a stand so that no debris will fall in the cilinder when pulling the from the studs. Debris may come from the old gaskets. Don't ask me how I know.

Go-carter

Thanks for the tip Just got the suggestion to remove the cam covers, and measure distance between lifter and cam. If it is bent, the distance would be bigger than the others, or? As the valve is sitting further in?

Ad0911

I don't get it. In the 4.5L and 4.7L engines the camshafts sit in the towers. If you take them off, you can't measure the distance between cam and lifter. It may work on double camshaft engines where the camshafts can be seen on the engine if the cover is off.

Rich9928p

To my knowledge, any intake 928 "spiders" for 1978 - 1986 Euro [1984 US] will fit on any 16-valve 928 heads (EuroS or non-EuroS).

The best 5-liter block for using 16-valve 928 heads is the 1985 - 1986 type. The 1987 and newer blocks do not have the supports for the CIS fuel distributor manifold hardware.

mark kibort

and you would want the 85-86 block anyway, because of the piston dish depth for compression. S4s with the 2 valve heads will have very low compression and probably wouldnt run right.

Go-carter

Well, I found out why there's no compression on #1!



Sooo.... What's next? I see pistons ar NLA at pelican, should I just scrap the engine and search for a new one?

EDIT: A little question on the side: As I would like to DRIVE the car, wouldn't it be possible to just smack the 4,7 heads on the 4,5 block and drive around until I(if its possible) get this engine fixed? As its the valve seals that are leaking on the 4,5 head anyways. Or would the valves hit the pistons?

Rich9928p

The problem isn't so much the piston, it is the scratches in the cylinder bore! These blocks just can't be honed out. Only a special shop can repair them, it is quite expensive.

You now have an official reason to look for that 5-liter block, this one is no good. Get a guarantee from the source that if the cylinder bores are no good, you get a refund.

Sadly, it appears that the previous owner of this engine decided to try drying rocks in the cylinder.

Go-carter

Exactly what I wanted to hear hehe, well, anyways I'm going to slap the 4,7 heads on the 4,5 to have a driving car until I find a 5,0 Actualle, I've seen one on ebay UK for £1200, but the shipping is going to be immense... I'll try source it out in Norway or Sweden... But now I'm out of money for a month or two, racing season is starting and the money is just flying away

Is it the M28/45 engine, that is best for hybrid? The 21 engine is 4,7, and the 41 is from S4, right?

GerritD

Hi ,

I recently discovered that my 928 of 1980 (orginally a Euro 928S wit 4.7L 300HP,K-jet and single distributor) has a Euro 4.5L 240HP engine , type M28.01 of 1979.

Since you have built up experience in swapping your 4.5l engine with a 4.7l engine, I'm just wondering if I can also swap my engine by a Euro S 4.7L 300HP, type M28.11 or M28.12.
Do I need extra parts ?
This would restore my car into a more original state.

I already received some great answers from 928-enthusiasts mentioned in this thread, but some more info on this kind of engine swap is ofcourse welcome :-)

by the way : when I mean a swap, this includes the whole engine with intakes,heads and cams....so a kind of plug-and -play job.