SQLGuy

Are you repairing the intake or exhaust side? Reason I ask is (from JB Weld's site):

Q: How much heat can J-B Weld withstand?
A: J-B Weld (Part # 8265-S, 8265, and 8280) can withstand a constant temperature of 500 degrees F. The maximum temperature threshold is approximately 600 degrees F for a short term (10 minutes).

jeff spahn

I agree. I have fixed a broken radiator with JB weld and it held for three years until I got rid of the car. Fixed a split side tank.

polecat702

Made a few inquires this morning. Equilox was bought out by 3M. The product is no longer available. A friend and former student at Bell Helicopter recomends, Cotronics Corp, High Temp Aluminum putty, Durabond 7025. It's an aluminum based machinable composit that will withstand 1000 degree temps. It comes as a kit, it's inexpensive, and it works. FAA certified. Phone # 718-788-5538. He says they use it at Bell for casting repairs, and the parts can be remachined after it sets up. 24 hours for a cold repair, or 2 hours if the parts are heated to 250 degrees.

77tony

George, I have an engineer friend over at Bell. If you decide to go with what Polecat recommends above, give me a shout, and I'll make the call. 77Tony

GeorgeM

Just about to head to the track, but I spoke to a couple of guys that weld, and their opinion was that the issue would be access, as Colin mentioned, not so much the material or method.

I really don't want to take the motor out, so I'm leaning towards a cold method.

Thanks for the tip, Joe, I'll check it out.

MattCarp

On my 84 I ran into a similar problem - I was following the WSM, but on re-assembly I stripped the damn hole. I can't exactly recall if I was using my small torque wrench or was freehanding it, but I can tell you I didn't expect that to happen!

Though not as severe as this damage, I did have a Porsche dealer address it. Not that they had any magic - they used a helicoil and slightly larger bolt.

I would say that if you're doing routine coolant flushes as per schedule, I'd leave the plugs in...

dr bob

As much as I love those aluminum sealing washers, I decided to pack the threads with Hylomar (or your favorite Teflon pipe sealing paste. I tighten the bolts to 17 lbs/ft, the recommended torque for 8mm threads. The plug bolts are 12mm threads. The threads and the paste packing them does the sealing, with the aluminum washer as backup. It's worked for me so far. WSM calls for about 26 lbs/ft with no sealant or anti-sieze specified, BTW. The plug has a small (13mm) hex head on it, same as a standard 8mm bolt, telling me that they really didn't intend them to be tightened much in spite of the WSM torque table value.

First time I changed coolant I was hesitatnt to pull hard enough on the plugs to get them out. Second coolant change was the first time I actually pulled those bolts out. I had a 6-point 1/2"-drive socket on them with a 24" bar, and they came out easily after the initial breakaway. The only reason I had the long bar was to get my tender little knuckles out from the stuff that would eat them on bolt release. With the thread paste on them they come out easily every time now. No leaks ever.

SteveG

Dr. Bob: Now I had to go back and re-read that whole damn thread on anti-seize.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...threads-4.html

before I ask why you use Hylomar paste and not just a smidge of nickel anti-seize?

Tony

Instead of removing them to drain it, why not just flush enough clean water through the block with a hose?

Ive removed those bolts ONCE on a previous car, i wont do it again.

Fogey1

Regardless of the repair method endorsed, everybody has emphasized that the area to be repaired has to be Very Clean. That can be hard to achieve on a dirty bit that's hard to access.

Ether's a great grease cutter, and I usually use a starting fluid spray (and brushes when necessary) but I've always worried because the can usually says something like "with top cylinder lubricant."

I've never felt the greasy/oily/dirty bit was still greasy/oily after I cleaned it and I've had good results using the spray, in that nothing I've stuck on or repaired has come off or broken again. BUT ...

I'd welcome advice and comment from those who have BTDT for other methods and substances to use.

StratfordShark

I was determined to do the coolant change by the book, but on my 88 S4 (RHD) access to the drain plug on one side was blocked (I can't remember exactly which line got in the way, but it didn't leave enough room for a socket and I couldn't hift it with a wrench). So I just drained one side of block.

When I did coolant change on 91 S4 I have now, I found something had changed in arrangement of lines in that area as access both sides was fine. I thought at first I'd rounded the plug head as the socket moved so easily. That was when I found the plugs on both sides had been left barely hand tight by some shop who'd done previous change (the PO wasn't into working on the car himself).

It gets very messy when you do open those plugs though...

Landseer

Its definitely a bath.

George, let us know when you work on it again, if you want some help.

mark kibort

impossible unless you peg the t-stat open, right?

GeorgeM

I emailed the Cotronics folks about their Durabond 7025 re: my application. Here's what I got. Not very reassuring.
==================
Dear George,
Thank you for your interest in our 7025 product.
The material may work, but there is one or two things you should know.
First, you should apply the material to a clean roughened surface.
Second, the material cures to be porous and weak. It will require a post cure at 250°F for 2 hours.
We do not have test data on this particular application for our product so we recommend testing for suitability with your application.
Please do keep in mind though that any material that you procure will be non-refundable.
If there is anything else we can do to assist you please ask.
===================

robot808

Yeah, that does not exactly inspire confidence.