mark kibort

oh i see it. it is horizontal, but the bottom half broke off, right? how many threads are on the inside?

well, you need to put the bolt back in to take it to a welder, unless someone can do house calls. then, pull it out, drain that water and weld the hole shut. however, it will be tought to do with aluminum. I would say, if you have more than 3 threads on the iniside, goop up JBweld, not the quick, but regular, and screw the longer bolt in there. Then, the next day, put in jbweld and an use tape to build it all up until you have a lot over the bolt and block. rough up everthing around it with sand paper. i have a jbweld patch that has held on my radiator for 6 years of racing now.

GeorgeM

The threads pretty much end at the edge of the broken piece.

I do have the pieces, there are two of them.

I'm with ya Mark, I was just following the WSM. Correct, the bottom half broke off.

Everything is drained. I was flushing to switch from the green stuff to G05, so I wanted to get it all out. The bolts came out easily, so it wasn't a big deal. If they were stuck, I would have not bothered to remove them.

It's gonna take either a house call, or I tow it.

Mongo

I bought a 944 with JB weld over the block drain plug too. It outlasted the motor, which fell to a couple of dead piston rings.

KLVA

J-B WELD....

polecat702

George, one of the aircraft welders on the base should be able to Tig it back together properly. I'd do it if you were here in Vegas. I'd weld up the bolt hole also , and forget about it. That would be a proper and permanent fix.

yardpro

i have also used jb weld on many motors (boat, motorcycle, automobile, etc..)
It is a great product. I have sealed some metal coolant lines that camo out of the top of the block of an old s-10.. it outlasted the car..

JB weld is also heat rated..
a local condo complex used it to fill rust holes in thier steel firedoors (we are at the coast).. as it is heat rated and the only product the fire department would accept as a filler..

soupcan

Run a tap in as far you can go (without hitting the cylinder wall) and try to get a few more threads for the plug to grab.

Glen McCartney

Geroge, Same exact thing happened to me. I had just bought the car, doing a TB/WP job, Drained the block, has a small drip on passenger side when I reinstalled plug with new crush ring. Took back out, new crush ring and when I tried to torque it down, POP off breaks the nipple just like yours, looks almost identical.

My block was threaded all the way through, I got a 12mm bolt, (if I remember that was the right size. I mixed JB weld up, put it on the threads and screwed it into the block, put some more JB weld around the bolt and put the broken piece of block then JB weld all around the outside of everything. Just can't remove it anymore. It has held with no leaks or issues since I did it.

I don't have a picture of the repair, I am probably going to be on a lift tomorrow for some work and I will try to snap a picture of the repair.

kccampro

That's such as hassle - I'm sorry to see that.

GeorgeM

Yeah, there is a little bit of depth to tap into. Looks like I can get a ~25mm bolt in there if I tap a few more threads. I'm concerned about the metal shavings though. Not sure how I'd keep them from getting into the block.

Never used JB Weld... looks like I've missed out on some incredible stuff.

Dave928S

Last year John Leidel had damage to the block girdle, which many regarded as a write off, and most said couldn't be welded in situ.

It wasn't a write off and it was welded in situ ... here's the thread .. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ld-you-do.html

Find a good welder and it can be fixed, without the uncertainty of adhesives or fillers, no matter how good they are. Good welders do this sort of work everyday (ships, aircraft, factory equipment, etc, etc), and it's already been proved as possible and successful on a 928 block, which was in much worse shape.

I wouldn't want to be driving around wondering if a patch was going to fall out.

blown 87

Wow George, that really sucks, I am in the weld it camp, as nice as the car is, and knowing you, fix it once and be one with it so you will never have to worry about it again.

AO

Ouch George. I have no opinion (although if it were my car, I'd probably try the JB weld route), but wanted to offer a sympathetic shoulder. Hang in there buddy.

Dave928S

Either now, or after welding, you can tap into the block and not get shavings in there by keeping the water jacket full of water with a running hose. As long as you keep backing the tap out, and don't allow it to choke with swarf, the water flow out will flush the debris out. I've followed that procedure on industrial pumps and pipework and it stops any metal shavings getting in.

RCinXS

If you still have the bits that broke off, Alumaloy (As seen on TV) is pretty good for this sort of thing, for real. The block is high silica content but it might be worth a try.

http://www.alumaloy.net/

I used to think that it was just aluminum welding wire, but when I tried to use welding wire, it didn't work.

NO clue what's so special about it, but I've used it on various intake manifolds and such and it worked for me.