nc_growler

Have you unbolted the starter and looked for damage yet? I was getting low voltage (battery failure) indications when my starter bendix didn't disengage and subsequently melted the internals.

Don Carter

Just got the title transferred, what a pain. After reloading the car on the trailer and taking it to an appraiser on Wed, they ended up only charging me tax on the 2500 and ignoring the appraisal. Saves me some money, but still frustrating.

Now to start the battery swap, oil check and possibly starter swap. (Can't believe I have a lift and have to crawl under my 86 on jack stands to get the start off... probably easier than moving the non running cars around though)

Don Carter

Tried putting a good battery in it, no difference. Started trying to move the flywheel again, and noticed the starter gear had not retracted, so tapped it back into place, and did get the fly wheel to move, heard the clunk just as Bill described. Moved it back and forth a few times then got out a digital gauge and measured .078" movement, 10 times the upper limit of .0078". Funny, .078 doesn't seem like much movement at all. Guess we have our answer folks!

Still will probably try to check the oil from below, but probably won't mess with swapping the starter.

Wonder if it's really worth the trouble to drop the pan now, other than just curiousity.

James Bailey

You are at the "pull the engine stage" right now......

White Lightnin'

....probably good time to replace those motor mounts too.

Don Carter

Will definately do new motor mounts, timing belt, water pump, gaskets, etc... Luckily, all the top end rubber and plug wires are fairly new on the old engine, so I'll just move all that over.

Just did some calling around and found 5 used engines nation wide from 1750 to 3200. I'll have whoever I buy from check the crank end play before shipping.

Has anyone here lifted an engine out with a lift arm, or two arms with a 4x4 across? Someone on garage journal did it and said it worked well. I'm thinking the car could be rolled back and forth for any front back movement needed, but of course I wouldn't have as much control for lifting slowly.

I'm actually looking forward to pulling an engine for the first time. Helps that it's not a depressing, unexpected situation and I'm not in any hurry.

Still haven't found the rear lift point on the engine, any clues?

sharknoob

Run the lift up and put a I beam across it, Clamp it in place with a hunk of flat stock and a couple of bolts on both sides of the arms,put a trolley on it and hang a 1 ton chain fall from it. Then find a bunch more uses to pick things up.

Don Carter

I drained the oil and was able to catch the first ounce or so that came out. There's a dark murky suspension in the oil but no noticeable shiny metal flakes. Also put some of the oil on black paper, and again no flakes.

I removed the sway bar, steering rack (found a local place that will rebuild it for $250, lifetime warranty), lower MM bolts, and disconnected the exhaust manifolds today. Next will be starter removal and coolant drain, and the 4 bolts in the flywheel housing. I haven't found an engine remove procedure yet, but all this seems pretty obvious.

Here's the oil in the glass jar with a light under it



There was a similar sludge on the drain plug, again no shiny particles (of course aluminum isn't attracted by magnets).



Thought this was a good shot...



Haven't see these spacers in years.

tmpusfugit

At the risk of getting tossed off the board, I think I see the problem. A bit too much toe in...and you heard it here first!

Don Carter

You win the prize Jim! (The prize is those screw in spring spacers)

tmpusfugit

Great! I will put them on my Speedster! Should really work well on torsion bar suspension...only slightly worse than on coil springs.....

nc_growler

+1! I was just about to type those words in response.

928mac

Sounds like a dead battery or way to much starter draw. The starter will make a grinding growl when drawing to much.

I am not convinced on the zero end play as even with my engine out and on the stand, there is not enough leverage to get good pry to move my crank.
I replaced my bearing last year so they are new and it takes a lot of force to move the crank.
A new battery and starter is not a waste of money.

Don Carter

Brad,

I was finally able to get the crank to move, and the measured movement is 10 times the max. Also did try a new battery which made no difference, but did not swap the starter.

I agree there's still some mystery around this since there's no metal particles in the oil(unless that's what the dark stuff is), but I will cut open the filter today and that may provide more evidence. Since I've drained the oil now, I can't try another starter, but I can turn the engine by hand with the plugs out, so I'll probably try to do that today also. I have nothing to compare it to since I've never turned an engine with the plugs out, but if I feel a noticable drag, that should also confirm the TBF.

Bill Ball

Sorry, zero endplay is not how they were assembled. It should take little force to move the crank, although you need the bellhousing to lever against to move it forward.

He tried a new battery - no change. And he finally moved the crank 1.9 mm with the spec limit being 0.4 mm.