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Old 03-17-2011, 11:46 AM
  #16  
dr bob
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JP--

Point loading was a concern, but that's mitigated now that there's a lift in the workbay. Previously I had been using a plywood pad under the jack stands, but not under the jack. My roller jack has a wide front roller so no issues. With tile, if I do use the roller jack, I'll use a plywood pad for that too. The porcelain tile, when bedded correctly, will easily handle the load from the jack with no pad. I'm only concerned about damage to the edge of a tile if the front roller happens to lamd right on a joint.
Old 03-17-2011, 12:18 PM
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jeff spahn
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Hmmmm. Tile That would be cool. I could put heated mats under the grout and heat the garage floor this way . . Right now I heat and cool my garage but a heated floor sure would be a nice addition.
Damn Rennlist. Always costing me money with cool ideas.
Old 03-17-2011, 12:39 PM
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77tony
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Nice kitchen Jarrod. I used cork floating planks glued together on the garage floor. Then sealed it with a few coats of poly. Cost was only $ 3.15 sq ft and did the install myself. The floor is not hard like concrete, tile, etc, and is nicely cushioned and comfortable to lay down on. My 02. T
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:03 PM
  #19  
Mark Anderson
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[QUOTE=dr bob;8390999] Shortcuts and less than diligent added up to less than perfect.

[QUOTE]

This is how I spent my weekend. I plan on applying the epoxy today.

Last edited by Mark Anderson; 12-13-2012 at 08:24 PM.
Old 03-17-2011, 04:11 PM
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dr bob
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Mark--

That's a critical-appearing step that the installer missed. My concrete wasn't polished, but was smooth enough to deserve at least the sanding or a good acid etching. Knowing what we know now, it needed at least an acid wash to neutralize the caustic degreaser, and to kill any effervescence. I'd had the concrete colored dark gray so there was no obvious hazing, but the paint manufacturer scolded the installer for not following all the instructions.

I'll be doing that same numb-hands dance when I strip off the epoxy before the tile install. I can hardly wait!
Old 03-17-2011, 04:55 PM
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springman
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Originally Posted by 77tony
Nice kitchen Jarrod. I used cork floating planks glued together on the garage floor. Then sealed it with a few coats of poly. Cost was only $ 3.15 sq ft and did the install myself. The floor is not hard like concrete, tile, etc, and is nicely cushioned and comfortable to lay down on. My 02. T
How is the cork holding up in regard to dents and or scratches? Normal garage use. Seems like it would be too soft.
Old 03-17-2011, 06:12 PM
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77tony
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If a floor jack is needed, a piece of 2x10 would be go under the jack because the floor is somewhat soft as you mentioned. Back out the 928 and the dual purpose room is used for a dance studio for my wife and a few of her students. If any heavy mechanical work is needed, I just stick it in the next bay that has a concrete only floor, or just bring it to my buddies shop that has a lift. I would not recommended cork for a commerical type garage floor, but for residential use, it works great and is pretty inexpensive. T

Last edited by 77tony; 03-18-2011 at 11:59 AM.
Old 03-17-2011, 06:32 PM
  #23  
jpitman2
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You seem to have the tile issue under control Dr Bob, so I will watch the other options with interest.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
Old 03-17-2011, 07:06 PM
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This stuff usually peels after a few weeks.
Old 03-17-2011, 09:20 PM
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dr bob
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Originally Posted by Jakkq
This stuff usually peels after a few weeks.
Which 'this stuff' were you referring to? And if referring to the industrial epoxy finish that started the thread, my 'few weeks' is still somewhere out beyond the six years or so it's been on the floor in my garage.

Many DIY projects with home-center products do seem to have problems with peeling after a short time. Part of the problem is the product (durability issues), most is with the prep and application (peeling/lifting issues).
Old 03-17-2011, 10:24 PM
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AO, Im thinking that a new Turbo S might be a fun summer Car. Appreciate your thoughts. Mac
Old 03-18-2011, 02:07 AM
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RKD in OKC
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Having seen several garages in the OKC area...

Wouldn't put the stuff from H-D in some else's garage.

Industrial stuff applied by professional not only looks kinda like the polished stones flooring in schools, etc., holds up much much better.

My garage floor is a bust for anything but stain because it is so stained with oil spills that will not even etch out by previous homeowner/mechanic, nothing will stick, even the Pros say no.
Old 03-18-2011, 02:21 AM
  #28  
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RKD--

The degreaser that the paint supplier sent is some really serious stuff. From the ingredients statement and the MSDS, it's a potent blend of oven cleaner and some petro derivitives. It was wasted on my newly-placed garage slab. Knd of ironic in the end, at least for me.


The driveway is 4000+ PSI paving stones. So far, no stains have survived the combined attack of kitty litter ground in with the boot heel, left a day, then swept up. Plus the occasional wash with some Tide, a stiff brush and maybe followed by the pressure washer.
Old 03-18-2011, 01:11 PM
  #29  
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This is the 4th garage floor I've coated but only time will tell how it holds up. Of the 3 previous floors 2 were nearly perfect for 10-15 years. The one time I used a water base product it was a disaster.

Last edited by Mark Anderson; 12-13-2012 at 08:23 PM.
Old 03-18-2011, 01:40 PM
  #30  
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Last week when I was helping Jim and Sue with GTS TB/WP they made it quite clear to me to keep the floor CLEAN! It is a well equipped shop with radiant floor heating and a beautiful finish on the floor. Steve was there off and on and we had him wiping the floor a few times. NO TRACKING OIL AROUND THE FLOOR Jim would tell Steve.

Who needs walls when you have a awesome floor!

Thomas


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