928 Garage Floor Finish
03-16-2011, 03:10 AM
#1
Chronic Tool Dropper
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928 Garage Floor Finish
But could actually be used under other cars.
When I had the garage floor finished with epoxy a while back, I got into a serious discussion with the supplier about his installer. The "settlement" was that they supplied a whole replacement kit of prep and finish. But they couldn't convince the installer to come back and do the work again for free (imagine that...), so I ended up with a package of light gray epoxy floor paint that I won't use.
If someone in the L.A. area (or somewhere else with allowance for shipping) is thinking about new garage floor finish, this might be a good option for you. There's easily enough for two generous coats on my 800+ sf concrete floor. Includes their degreaser, plus the epoxy paint. Industrial stuff that's way north of home-store epoxy floor paints. Thought I'd offer it here before it goes to the Garage Journal guys. $200, or about 25 cents a square foot.
When I had the garage floor finished with epoxy a while back, I got into a serious discussion with the supplier about his installer. The "settlement" was that they supplied a whole replacement kit of prep and finish. But they couldn't convince the installer to come back and do the work again for free (imagine that...), so I ended up with a package of light gray epoxy floor paint that I won't use.
If someone in the L.A. area (or somewhere else with allowance for shipping) is thinking about new garage floor finish, this might be a good option for you. There's easily enough for two generous coats on my 800+ sf concrete floor. Includes their degreaser, plus the epoxy paint. Industrial stuff that's way north of home-store epoxy floor paints. Thought I'd offer it here before it goes to the Garage Journal guys. $200, or about 25 cents a square foot.
03-16-2011, 09:34 PM
#4
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Andrew--
Durall brand. The installation contractor in the end wasn't qualified to do the work, took some shortcuts that spoiled the results. One had to do with the prep, where he washed the floor and didn't wait long enough before starting paint application.
Next part was partially my fault for not adding the clear topcoat with quartz/mica flake. That step makes the floor a lot less slippery when wet, and the hard flakes add a lot to the durability. The package I have does not include the clear or any flakes. It has the prep chems, base color coats in gray, and some application tools. (rollers/frames/etc.)
I've spec'd this finish for power plant maintenance shop floors with good results.
For the curious: Since I have the MaxJax lift installed, the old finish is coming up, to be replaced with porcelain tile and epoxy grout. No risk of cracked tiles from the roller-jack now. The funds from this sale of the floor paint should cover the sales tax on the tile job. :0
Durall brand. The installation contractor in the end wasn't qualified to do the work, took some shortcuts that spoiled the results. One had to do with the prep, where he washed the floor and didn't wait long enough before starting paint application.
Next part was partially my fault for not adding the clear topcoat with quartz/mica flake. That step makes the floor a lot less slippery when wet, and the hard flakes add a lot to the durability. The package I have does not include the clear or any flakes. It has the prep chems, base color coats in gray, and some application tools. (rollers/frames/etc.)
I've spec'd this finish for power plant maintenance shop floors with good results.
For the curious: Since I have the MaxJax lift installed, the old finish is coming up, to be replaced with porcelain tile and epoxy grout. No risk of cracked tiles from the roller-jack now. The funds from this sale of the floor paint should cover the sales tax on the tile job. :0
03-16-2011, 09:54 PM
#6
That is a hell of a deal.
03-16-2011, 10:55 PM
#7
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I have to agree on the consumer vs pro stuff. I have re applied my consumer level stuff 2x now. I have even acid etched and sanded the floor. It still lifts under tires.
Next time I am having the floor sandblasted and the guys who do the aircraft hangers are doing my garage.
Next time I am having the floor sandblasted and the guys who do the aircraft hangers are doing my garage.
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03-16-2011, 11:00 PM
#8
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Paint? no, no, no......wood parquetry please. Not cold to lie on, soaks up oil and water etc. Lovely stuff. When I win the lottery.....
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
03-17-2011, 12:09 AM
#9
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Bob,
I'm thinking about porcelain tile also. Home depot has been running large porcelain tiles, I think 16" or so, for .99/sq foot. I have over 1400 sq ft to do, so a big job but still a lot cheaper than many other options. They have a bit of texture to them, so they probably wouldn't be too slipery when wet. Not sure about the large tile on a less than perfectly level garage slab though. I like laying tile, but for a job that big, I'd probably have to hire some help. I hear epoxy grout is super expensive, so I'm thinking dark grout might work good enough.
I'm thinking about porcelain tile also. Home depot has been running large porcelain tiles, I think 16" or so, for .99/sq foot. I have over 1400 sq ft to do, so a big job but still a lot cheaper than many other options. They have a bit of texture to them, so they probably wouldn't be too slipery when wet. Not sure about the large tile on a less than perfectly level garage slab though. I like laying tile, but for a job that big, I'd probably have to hire some help. I hear epoxy grout is super expensive, so I'm thinking dark grout might work good enough.
03-17-2011, 12:20 AM
#10
Chronic Tool Dropper
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JP--
Not so sure I want something that soaks up oil and water. I'd rather it be easy to clean when there is a spill. The epoxy over concrete certainly meets that need. And for the bulk of the year here in the coastal desert of Southern California, a cool floor to lie on is a relief. With luck and the garage lift, there shouldn't be as much lying on the floor anyway.
AO-- No problem. The clear and the flakes are readily available from them and from others.
Jeff-- The process here included a caustic degreasing (which it didn't need since it was a new mat), didn't include the acid etching (which it did need since it was a new mat), and didn't include any other surface prep. Done by an 'expert' installer. Find the folks who know what they are doing and you'll be very happy. Shortcuts and less than diligent added up to less than perfect.
I do have to say that for all but a few places, this stuff has held up extremely well. No hot-tire lifting, something that seems to challenge the consumer products. Also immune to everything I've spilled on it, including brake fluid and brake cleaner. Once a year I apply an acrylic sealer to it (from local janitor supply store) with a deep-nap paint roller on a stick, after using a floor stripper applied by broom and removed with shop vac to get the old stuff and any ground-in dirt or 'stains'. It looks like new again, and the roller finish is just rough enough to make it safe to walk on when a little water gets loose on it.
Not so sure I want something that soaks up oil and water. I'd rather it be easy to clean when there is a spill. The epoxy over concrete certainly meets that need. And for the bulk of the year here in the coastal desert of Southern California, a cool floor to lie on is a relief. With luck and the garage lift, there shouldn't be as much lying on the floor anyway.
AO-- No problem. The clear and the flakes are readily available from them and from others.
Jeff-- The process here included a caustic degreasing (which it didn't need since it was a new mat), didn't include the acid etching (which it did need since it was a new mat), and didn't include any other surface prep. Done by an 'expert' installer. Find the folks who know what they are doing and you'll be very happy. Shortcuts and less than diligent added up to less than perfect.
I do have to say that for all but a few places, this stuff has held up extremely well. No hot-tire lifting, something that seems to challenge the consumer products. Also immune to everything I've spilled on it, including brake fluid and brake cleaner. Once a year I apply an acrylic sealer to it (from local janitor supply store) with a deep-nap paint roller on a stick, after using a floor stripper applied by broom and removed with shop vac to get the old stuff and any ground-in dirt or 'stains'. It looks like new again, and the roller finish is just rough enough to make it safe to walk on when a little water gets loose on it.
03-17-2011, 12:38 AM
#11
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Don--
The tile experts frown on the cheapo stuff that's at H-D, for some reason. I do admit that I looked long and hard at the low prices there, but apparently there are serious differences in strength. There are some industry standards. One of the larger online tile distributors has a warehouse and showroom less than 30 mins from here so I'll probably go by there for the better tile, at about $1.50-$2.00/sf for just the tile. I'm also looking at the 16" tiles, and like the surface textures more than many of the ceramics I've seen.
They also have the epoxy grout, and while it's certainly more than conventional grout, it doesn't add a large percentage to the total installed budget. The labor for grouting is the same, except you have to clean any surface film off right away rather than waiting for it all to dry completely. Depending on how consistent and square the tiles are, I'd like to shoot for a rather thin grout line, like 1/4" or less.
Total package for me also includes edging for the doorway ramps. and at the pass doors inside. 850' for me is at the edge of how much work I feel like doing myself, so I'll likely hire help at least for the tile setting part.
I have some unevenness to the floor that will take a little extra attention. I'll do a little laser and scale survey and see exactly where the high spots are, and level to those places. I do want to maintain most of the drainage slope though, so just need to make it flat for the most part. The survey will tell me if it will be more than a thinset job.
If you haven't looked at GarageJournal.com, take a peek. They have a couple sections including one dedicated to garage floors. There are a few epoxy paint system suppliers and the focus seems to be more on which of theirs' is best vs which total floor solution is best. Still, there are a few tile projects discussed that may give you some hints on yours.
The 928 deserves a nice home!
The tile experts frown on the cheapo stuff that's at H-D, for some reason. I do admit that I looked long and hard at the low prices there, but apparently there are serious differences in strength. There are some industry standards. One of the larger online tile distributors has a warehouse and showroom less than 30 mins from here so I'll probably go by there for the better tile, at about $1.50-$2.00/sf for just the tile. I'm also looking at the 16" tiles, and like the surface textures more than many of the ceramics I've seen.
They also have the epoxy grout, and while it's certainly more than conventional grout, it doesn't add a large percentage to the total installed budget. The labor for grouting is the same, except you have to clean any surface film off right away rather than waiting for it all to dry completely. Depending on how consistent and square the tiles are, I'd like to shoot for a rather thin grout line, like 1/4" or less.
Total package for me also includes edging for the doorway ramps. and at the pass doors inside. 850' for me is at the edge of how much work I feel like doing myself, so I'll likely hire help at least for the tile setting part.
I have some unevenness to the floor that will take a little extra attention. I'll do a little laser and scale survey and see exactly where the high spots are, and level to those places. I do want to maintain most of the drainage slope though, so just need to make it flat for the most part. The survey will tell me if it will be more than a thinset job.
If you haven't looked at GarageJournal.com, take a peek. They have a couple sections including one dedicated to garage floors. There are a few epoxy paint system suppliers and the focus seems to be more on which of theirs' is best vs which total floor solution is best. Still, there are a few tile projects discussed that may give you some hints on yours.
The 928 deserves a nice home!
03-17-2011, 01:47 AM
#12
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This definitely wouldn't be HD cheap, but if you want a quality tile that mimics stained concrete, Daltile makes a glazed porcelain line called "Concrete Connection". It's a high-end tile suitable for residential and commercial use with a high slip-resistance and comes in sizes up to 20"x20". I did my kitchen and breakfast nook in my previous home using their "Eastside Brown" color and received many compliments. I think it would look awesome in a garage (Dr. Bob - having seen pics of the front of your garage, I think it would compliment your decor quite nicely.)
My install was about 3 years ago and I think I paid about $6/ft from a fellow 928 owner here in Tulsa who happens to own a tile wholesale business.
Below is a web link, about 1/2-way down that page is an icon to "Download Sales Sheet" which contains all the particulars. Also attached are a couple pics of my install (note - these shots are with a flash, it appears darker under normal lighting. I still have a leftover tile I could take additional pictures of if anyone is interested) Standard disclaimer: I have no vested interest in this product other than being a satisfied customer, YMMV.
http://www.daltile.com/series.cfm?se...pg=5&c=40#3421
My install was about 3 years ago and I think I paid about $6/ft from a fellow 928 owner here in Tulsa who happens to own a tile wholesale business.
Below is a web link, about 1/2-way down that page is an icon to "Download Sales Sheet" which contains all the particulars. Also attached are a couple pics of my install (note - these shots are with a flash, it appears darker under normal lighting. I still have a leftover tile I could take additional pictures of if anyone is interested) Standard disclaimer: I have no vested interest in this product other than being a satisfied customer, YMMV.
http://www.daltile.com/series.cfm?se...pg=5&c=40#3421
03-17-2011, 02:21 AM
#13
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Jarrod--
"Glazed porcelain" is something I hadn't heard of. Porcelain is supposed to be 'glaze' all the way through, vs a clay base/layer with a glaze layer on top. Happens there's a Daltile store ten minutes from here, so I'll take a look.
The color and texture that you have in your pictures is very close to what I have in mind. Imagine a slightly lighter shade, with a thin color-matched rather than the wider light contrasting grout. The cab doors inside are being redone in antique cherry, so the lighter-colored floor is required. For the garage, I'd as soon have the narrow grout lines so they are less obtrusive, plus the wheels on the creeper and creeper-seat roll over the narrow gaps more easily.
$6/sf installed is a great price for a kitchen with all the detailing needed. I'm looking at a tad under $3/sf materials all in, plus however much labor I need to hire. I have all the tools & equipment needed, just need a couple helpers to schlep tile and mix mortar and grout. And a chiropractor at the end. I can hire English-speaking hands locally for $10/hr plus lunch for the heavy stuff.
When I first proposed this to K, she said fine, and I was talking about doing it before the summer heat. Less than two days later, the time window I had planned to fill with this project was booked up on an east-coast project. All I have to do is start planning a major home project when the phone rings. There could be much worse problems, all things considered, even for a supposedly-retired guy. If there's any good news out of the situation in Japan, it's a renewed focus on power plant relaibility and safety here. No nuclear for me (liability insurance is impossible) but still an interesting trickle-down.
"Glazed porcelain" is something I hadn't heard of. Porcelain is supposed to be 'glaze' all the way through, vs a clay base/layer with a glaze layer on top. Happens there's a Daltile store ten minutes from here, so I'll take a look.
The color and texture that you have in your pictures is very close to what I have in mind. Imagine a slightly lighter shade, with a thin color-matched rather than the wider light contrasting grout. The cab doors inside are being redone in antique cherry, so the lighter-colored floor is required. For the garage, I'd as soon have the narrow grout lines so they are less obtrusive, plus the wheels on the creeper and creeper-seat roll over the narrow gaps more easily.
$6/sf installed is a great price for a kitchen with all the detailing needed. I'm looking at a tad under $3/sf materials all in, plus however much labor I need to hire. I have all the tools & equipment needed, just need a couple helpers to schlep tile and mix mortar and grout. And a chiropractor at the end. I can hire English-speaking hands locally for $10/hr plus lunch for the heavy stuff.
When I first proposed this to K, she said fine, and I was talking about doing it before the summer heat. Less than two days later, the time window I had planned to fill with this project was booked up on an east-coast project. All I have to do is start planning a major home project when the phone rings. There could be much worse problems, all things considered, even for a supposedly-retired guy. If there's any good news out of the situation in Japan, it's a renewed focus on power plant relaibility and safety here. No nuclear for me (liability insurance is impossible) but still an interesting trickle-down.
03-17-2011, 02:40 AM
#14
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Jarrod--
"Glazed porcelain" is something I hadn't heard of. Porcelain is supposed to be 'glaze' all the way through, vs a clay base/layer with a glaze layer on top. Happens there's a Daltile store ten minutes from here, so I'll take a look.
The color and texture that you have in your pictures is very close to what I have in mind. Imagine a slightly lighter shade, with a thin color-matched rather than the wider light contrasting grout. The cab doors inside are being redone in antique cherry, so the lighter-colored floor is required. For the garage, I'd as soon have the narrow grout lines so they are less obtrusive, plus the wheels on the creeper and creeper-seat roll over the narrow gaps more easily.
$6/sf installed is a great price for a kitchen with all the detailing needed. I'm looking at a tad under $3/sf materials all in, plus however much labor I need to hire. I have all the tools & equipment needed, just need a couple helpers to schlep tile and mix mortar and grout. And a chiropractor at the end. I can hire English-speaking hands locally for $10/hr plus lunch for the heavy stuff.
When I first proposed this to K, she said fine, and I was talking about doing it before the summer heat. Less than two days later, the time window I had planned to fill with this project was booked up on an east-coast project. All I have to do is start planning a major home project when the phone rings. There could be much worse problems, all things considered, even for a supposedly-retired guy. If there's any good news out of the situation in Japan, it's a renewed focus on power plant relaibility and safety here. No nuclear for me (liability insurance is impossible) but still an interesting trickle-down.
"Glazed porcelain" is something I hadn't heard of. Porcelain is supposed to be 'glaze' all the way through, vs a clay base/layer with a glaze layer on top. Happens there's a Daltile store ten minutes from here, so I'll take a look.
The color and texture that you have in your pictures is very close to what I have in mind. Imagine a slightly lighter shade, with a thin color-matched rather than the wider light contrasting grout. The cab doors inside are being redone in antique cherry, so the lighter-colored floor is required. For the garage, I'd as soon have the narrow grout lines so they are less obtrusive, plus the wheels on the creeper and creeper-seat roll over the narrow gaps more easily.
$6/sf installed is a great price for a kitchen with all the detailing needed. I'm looking at a tad under $3/sf materials all in, plus however much labor I need to hire. I have all the tools & equipment needed, just need a couple helpers to schlep tile and mix mortar and grout. And a chiropractor at the end. I can hire English-speaking hands locally for $10/hr plus lunch for the heavy stuff.
When I first proposed this to K, she said fine, and I was talking about doing it before the summer heat. Less than two days later, the time window I had planned to fill with this project was booked up on an east-coast project. All I have to do is start planning a major home project when the phone rings. There could be much worse problems, all things considered, even for a supposedly-retired guy. If there's any good news out of the situation in Japan, it's a renewed focus on power plant relaibility and safety here. No nuclear for me (liability insurance is impossible) but still an interesting trickle-down.
That $6/ft was just for the tile, installation was extra. As I said in my original post, it's a premium line with a price to match.
Here's another shot of the kitchen. While not a great shot of the tile, the flash did not have as much impact and the color of the tile in this particular shot is a truer representation of how it looks in normal light.
03-17-2011, 02:52 AM
#15
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I would worry that point loads on tiles like that would crack them. Jacking a car - will you always put a piece of wood under the jack foot, or trolley jack's wheels? Car itself shoudnt be an issue, but jacks would, and steel wheels will mark the surface after a while, IMHO. Unless the tiles are VERY well laid on an even surface you will get voids underneath that will make point loads worse. Tile edges caused by slight unevenness in base will get cracked by jack wheels.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k