928autobahndreamer

I am finally getting into my winter project of replacing the original shocks/springs with Bilstein/Eibach combo. I have the shocks off and the fronts disassembled and all of the parts still seem to be present, although the rubber bits are showing their age, everything is intact.

So, my question is do I need to replace the rubber conical washer at the top of the shock or do most people just reuse this? What are other common items to replace when rebuilding the shock/spring assembly itself? I am already planning on the ball joint boots otherwise, and everything else looks tight including the A arms and tie rod ends.

I am at work now but will post some pictures when I get home tonight so you can see the condition of the parts in question. Thanks.

blown 87

Pretty easy to replace them right now.

928autobahndreamer

I guess I could just replace everything. I have not priced everything out, but I don't want to drop several hundred extra dollars only to find out that the original parts are completely fine to use over.

blown 87

You have the parts in your hand, you are in a better position to know if they need to be replaced than we are.

928autobahndreamer

LOL. That is true.

However, more of what I am getting at is if these are items that tend to wear out or fail over time. This is my first suspension change out of any kind. Please be nice to the newbie mechanic.

I have never seen any threads about the conical washer failing or causing problems. The item is fully intact with the exception of some minor flaking on some of the surface. I will post some pictures tonight when I get home from work.

If I need to change all of the associated parts just to make sure everything is new, I will. However, funds are limited and I would rather make the best purchases for my car with the funds available.

I was just hoping for some lister's experiences to help me make an informed decision.

Thanks.

dcrasta

Just a general rule of thumb rubber stuff should be replaced (unless its special 'Super expensive' parts then they get the magic-eye [stare at them for a long time] inspection).

But then again if its a 'hard to get in there to replace' type of part your sanity may be saved replacing it. Sucks to put it all back together and have that 'part looked fine' part cause problems.

Rob Edwards

IMO, the only thing you may need to replace are the shock snubbers (items # 5 and 7 on the diagrams below)if they're crushed/degraded and maybe the black plastic boots (items 6 and 8) if they're cracked around the necks where they slip over the shock's piston rod. No need to replace the entire upper mount, which is a good thing as they're hideously expensive. That flaking is just surface casting flecks being shed, not a big deal. Do keep track of the orientation of the conical washer inside the upper shock mounts in front, IIRC they sit with the convex suirface pointing up at the sky.

Replacing Boges with Boges often requires new threaded collars because they get trashed in hammering them off the old shock body but that's a non-issue with Bilsteins as their bodies are already threaded.

FRONT:






REAR:






Bilsteins, what comes in the box:

nc_growler

Having just done this, I'd definitely replace the bump stops #5 and #7 above and the dust covers if they are showing cracks.

I'd also take a really hard look at the current threaded sleeve and adjuster nuts on Boges if you are replacing with Boges. (they are called Sachs now I think?).

I had one of my rear sleeves that bound to the adjuster nut when trying to adjust my ride height after replacement... I ended up having to pull the shock back out and order replacement sleeve and nut after the fact from Roger.

Use some anti-seize on the sleeve threads and nut when assembling.

Bill Ball

I would clean up the rubber bushings at the top in the rear (10 and 12 in Rob's 2nd diagram) and reuse them unless they are cracked, smashed or otherwise falling apart. All the ones I've seen were OK. Relube them with non-petroleum-based rubber bushing grease. I use Super Lube synthetic grease, available in a small tube in most autoparts stores or some other silicone and/or Teflon (PTFE) grease. The bump stops that go on the shaft are often obviously worn and need to be replaced. Like Greg says, you have them in-hand and should be able to determine what's still serviceable.

928autobahndreamer

Thanks guys.

This is exactly what I was looking for.

Leon Speed

I replaced the collars and adjuster nuts. Everything else looked ok, so I just cleaned the really well.

928autobahndreamer

OK, here are the pictures of the related parts. I think they should be OK, but I am debating adding the rubber "additional spring" even though it looks OK.

Also, I am not sure about the original specs for the shock, but I am willing to bet that you should not be able to compress it with one finger. I am really curious as to how the car will handle now with fresh Bilsteins.

Leon Speed

Those parts look fine to me. You can take the top mount apart and clean it.

31-TL-ZS

I am in the middle of the same proces. I can press the shocks with one finger to (1993 year old GTS). How about pressing the new Bilsteins? Haven't got mine yet.

928autobahndreamer

I have not mounted the shock in the vice yet for assembly, but just trying to push the plunger on the new bilsteins is considerably more difficult.

I would estimate that my old shocks were compressed with only 15 lbs of pressure. That can't be doing much.