Heak Soak
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These cars are cheap to buy (handmedown would be zero??) but expensive to maintain. Especially if you pay someone else. Sounds like a true hand-me-down as you are not sure what has been replaced. You might want to get a history and start a folder so you know. Or unload it now and get something newer, no shame in that. I spent 4 hours bent over the engine yesterday finishing up a fuel line replacement (are yours 15 years old?), water bridge reseal and TBelt tensioning. That was probably $500 labor; I won't tell you how long it took (me) totally. Sharks are not rational.
I have actually got a history file for not just the GTS but copies of the history files for the S4 and S2 that preceeded it. The problem is that each is like War and Peace and Leigh writes like Rasputin so it's virtually illegible to anyone but himself.
In fact, the only reason I know I haven't got 3 files containing 30 years worth of invoices for dancing monkeys and pixie dust is the fact that when he hands the car back he goes through the invoice and translates every item while showing you the broken/oily bits he's just pulled off in the boxes the new parts came in and explaining the replacement process in excruciating detail
The only downside is that while he knows the things inside out, he's not as sensitive to minor problems like I am. I predict his answer to 'it feels like it's lacking in top end power' would be 'what do you expect, it's a 928, not a 911'
#17
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A 1996 Porsche 928.........interesting.
From what you've written thus far you have a free 928, you spent money on it to look good vs running properly and now complain over a smaller amount that would repair any/all intake issues.
Your money your choice........good luck
BTW....I sprained my ankle too
From what you've written thus far you have a free 928, you spent money on it to look good vs running properly and now complain over a smaller amount that would repair any/all intake issues.
Your money your choice........good luck
BTW....I sprained my ankle too
Last edited by the flyin' scotsman; 03-14-2011 at 04:28 PM.
#18
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If that's his answer you'll better let him keep on working on 911's (and I have had a few of those- 8) Get hold of John Speake (in the UK) and let him guide you.
#19
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I agree you don't want to shotgun this with expensive labor and parts. If the diagnostic shows no fault codes, then that effectively rules out the knock sensors and hall sender. An idle manifold vacuum measurement would help to rule out false air leaning out the mixture. That usually screws up the idle too, but you may not notice that.
MAFs as they age do "lean" out (supply a lower signal for any particular airflow). So, as the car warms up from a cold start, the fuel mixuture is richer due to the warmup enrichment map, and the car shows good power, but once warm, the MAF signal, if weak, may be having more impact, causing a lean mixture. Not much you can do other than have the MAF checked/calibrated/rebuilt (if needed) by John Speake, who is relatively local to you.
MAFs as they age do "lean" out (supply a lower signal for any particular airflow). So, as the car warms up from a cold start, the fuel mixuture is richer due to the warmup enrichment map, and the car shows good power, but once warm, the MAF signal, if weak, may be having more impact, causing a lean mixture. Not much you can do other than have the MAF checked/calibrated/rebuilt (if needed) by John Speake, who is relatively local to you.
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A 1996 Porsche 928.........interesting.
From what you've written thus far you have a free 928, you spent money on it to look good vs running good and now complain over a smaller amount that would repair any/all intake issues.
Your money your choice........good luck
BTW....I sprained my ankle too
From what you've written thus far you have a free 928, you spent money on it to look good vs running good and now complain over a smaller amount that would repair any/all intake issues.
Your money your choice........good luck
BTW....I sprained my ankle too
Actually I've probably spent just as much making it 'run good' as I have making it look nice. Since I've had the car I've done mounts, full suspension refresh, new MAF, new intake hoses, full A/C repair and rebuild, all fluids flushed and changed, timing belt, water pump and tensioner, and rectified a load of other minor stuff I can't think of off the top of my head.
In fact, an intake refresh is probably the only obvious thing I haven't done so far, mainly because the engine hasn't shown any idling or other behavioural issues!
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I agree you don't want to shotgun this with expensive labor and parts. If the diagnostic shows no fault codes, then that effectively rules out the knock sensors and hall sender. An idle manifold vacuum measurement would help to rule out false air leaning out the mixture. That usually screws up the idle too, but you may not notice that.
MAFs as they age do "lean" out (supply a lower signal for any particular airflow). Not much you can do other than have the MAF checked/calibrated/rebuilt (if needed) by John Speake, who is relatively local to you.
MAFs as they age do "lean" out (supply a lower signal for any particular airflow). Not much you can do other than have the MAF checked/calibrated/rebuilt (if needed) by John Speake, who is relatively local to you.
To be honest, I was hoping someone would tell me that the heat could be causing seals to leak, or parts to expand and allow air in, or old cats to close up, or something. The intake seal test is interesting, how would I go about that?
#23
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Well, it's registered as 1996 but in the UK that's the date of first use, so I just assume it means it was one of the last to actually be sold here
Actually I've probably spent just as much making it 'run good' as I have making it look nice. Since I've had the car I've done mounts, full suspension refresh, new MAF, new intake hoses, full A/C repair and rebuild, all fluids flushed and changed, timing belt, water pump and tensioner, and rectified a load of other minor stuff I can't think of off the top of my head.
In fact, an intake refresh is probably the only obvious thing I haven't done so far, mainly because the engine hasn't shown any idling or other behavioural issues!
Actually I've probably spent just as much making it 'run good' as I have making it look nice. Since I've had the car I've done mounts, full suspension refresh, new MAF, new intake hoses, full A/C repair and rebuild, all fluids flushed and changed, timing belt, water pump and tensioner, and rectified a load of other minor stuff I can't think of off the top of my head.
In fact, an intake refresh is probably the only obvious thing I haven't done so far, mainly because the engine hasn't shown any idling or other behavioural issues!
You cite spending monies on factory operation of the engine running condition where in fact one could endlessly debate what is required to maintain a high performance automobile at '15' years of age. Again your decision and choice.
For further assistance please have the service reports deciphered from the hieroglyphs provided by your almighty. We who perform our own maintenance and repair own and operate such diagnostic equipment and can help analyse the data.
Good luck.
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Also for what it's worth, genuinely thanks for the pieces of advice, reading back it might have come across that I wasn't listening, but really I was just trying to create discussion about my problem.
Also worth pointing out that although I choose not to work on the 928, I do work on my other cars and I'm an automotive engineer by day, so I know more or less what's what! However i'd rather leave the more complex jobs on the 928 to the guy my family has used and trusted for years, as I love the car and frankly his work is far better than mine!
#27
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OJ - you've been around here since 2008 so you should know there is no such thing as a 'cheap' 928, much less a 'free' one.
This post in the FAQ topic posted at the top of this forum sums it up well:
https://rennlist.com/forums/301038-post21.html
Spend the money and get it sorted or sell and cut your losses.
Good luck!
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This post in the FAQ topic posted at the top of this forum sums it up well:
https://rennlist.com/forums/301038-post21.html
Spend the money and get it sorted or sell and cut your losses.
Good luck!
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OJ - you've been around here since 2008 so you should know there is no such thing as a 'cheap' 928, much less a 'free' one.
This post in the FAQ topic posted at the top of this forum sums it up well:
https://rennlist.com/forums/301038-post21.html
Spend the money and get it sorted or sell and cut your losses.
Good luck!
This post in the FAQ topic posted at the top of this forum sums it up well:
https://rennlist.com/forums/301038-post21.html
Spend the money and get it sorted or sell and cut your losses.
Good luck!
The car doesn't display any of the other notable symptoms of intake leaks or show any warnings of failed sensors, and I've already said pressure testing the inlet is a good idea, so what's the problem in asking the question of why a job needs to be done before spending money on doing it?
#30
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My dad pays someone to work on all his cars, too. Same good bunch of guys, we've known them for 20 years.
I bought my 928 from him.
First time I did a timing belt job, I found the timing belt off one tooth on the passenger side, a stripped waterpump bolt and a stripped allen head on the tensioner.
When corrected with proper timing I couldn't get the car to stay cool enough.
Last year I rebuilt the engine myself. The fan control unit had failed, leading to rad end tank failure, then overheating. At some point ****ty coolant had been used and the heads were pitted pretty badly.
Do I blame the mechanics or my Dad? Nope. It's a 20+year old car. He only owned it for 5.
You've already dove in and replaced all that stuff. Finish it off. Intake r&r is 6 to 7 hours.
You did replace the fuel lines, right?
No, I didn't sprain my ankle, but I think someone stepped on it this weekend at the dropkick murphy's concert.
I bought my 928 from him.
First time I did a timing belt job, I found the timing belt off one tooth on the passenger side, a stripped waterpump bolt and a stripped allen head on the tensioner.
When corrected with proper timing I couldn't get the car to stay cool enough.
Last year I rebuilt the engine myself. The fan control unit had failed, leading to rad end tank failure, then overheating. At some point ****ty coolant had been used and the heads were pitted pretty badly.
Do I blame the mechanics or my Dad? Nope. It's a 20+year old car. He only owned it for 5.
You've already dove in and replaced all that stuff. Finish it off. Intake r&r is 6 to 7 hours.
You did replace the fuel lines, right?
No, I didn't sprain my ankle, but I think someone stepped on it this weekend at the dropkick murphy's concert.