Hi Oaros,

That's just what I use too - I call it my 'poor man's hoist'. A couple or 3 of things you might consider:-
1. Put a block of wood (2" say) under each ramp at the entry end where the bolted / bendy join is. This will give you just that extra clearance for your air dam, especially as you come down;
2. Bolt (if you can) some blocks of wood into the concrete floor immediately in front of the pivot point. This will ensure that the ramps don't 'run away' as you drive up. (Mine would without that treatment, but mine may be a bit higher with a steeper angle of attack).
3. I always put a jack stand under the each ramp, about in the location of the rear wheels, just in case I do something that that might otherwise make the ramp tilt with the car still on top, handbrake off, out of gear, someone underneath near the rear...

No problem driving the auto S4 or Holden (Vauxhall / Chev) up on on my own - but not much fine riding the clutch and peering out the side putting the 944 or the 356 up on my ramps on my own, that's for sure. I'm thinking of adding an electric boat winch for pulling manual cars (or dead auto cars) up.

Cheers

 

Nice. Were they economical?

 

Thanks for the tips DaveO; I had boards on standby for driving up but the airdam just cleared. I'll use them for reversing down. My ramps didn't move at all but then my concrete floor is very rough and uneven. Yes, I also use additional jack stands for support.

Hi Ed, economical - sort of - cheaper than the trolley jack I would have needed to get the wheels about 60cm/2ft off the ground. As you can see my garage is '"cosy", while a small four poster would have fit, the A frame for the roof would only allow a max lift of 90cm/3ft. So not much gain for a lot more money and having had a look under the car I already know where the saved money will go

Oliver

 

this is what I work with

 

What's the advantage of thesre ramp? Seems like everything is too high when you are laying under it and too low to sit up and work.