gibson36

yea it's going back to the shop in the morning ( another shop ) and I'm just gonna have them replace the rear coupler it's only 70 bucks or so

James Bailey

If you pop up the leather shifter boot from the console you will see two shift linkage rods. One goes forward to the ballcup bushing the other goes back to the universal joint coupler at the trans shift rod. The forward rod should have almost zero movement play as you move the shifter. If it has much movement you need that front ballcup replaced.....

Dave928S

Sorry I've taken a while to post these photos.

The first shows the complete assembly from the ball cup at the front, the middle support bushing, the shifter, the boot over the rear coupling, and then the rear coupling. In this photo you can see the rear boot is torn, and the rear coupler is dismantled.

The second photo shows the front ball cup (brand new white insert) which you'll need to replace as it's likely it's either not there, or badly worn. That ball cup fits over the ball on the front of the torque tube. This one is a b***h to get to in place.

The third photo shows the rear coupler (dismantled - exploded view) which fits into the rear of the shifter tube. The clamp bolt on the shifter tube allows rotational and back and forth adjustment, to get the shifter properly aligned. At the rear of the coupler is a grub screw which fixes the coupler to the shaft going into the gear box. You don't have to replace the whole coupler, you can just replace the plastic bushes which you can see in this photo.

Best to replace three things ... front ball cup ... rear coupler bushings ... rear coupler boot ... all those items are cheap, and you know after doing that you won't have to touch anything again in that whole assembly for a long time.

Landseer

Great post / pictures Dave.
Here are a couple more to augment.

Dave928S

Thanks Chris ...It's good to have those extra pics of the complete assembly to clearly give the big picture. Looks like there's always something happening in your garage.

mark kibort

poping out of gear is a gear box problem there is a spring loaded fixture, mouting on the outside of the driver side of the box, that gives pressure on the internal sliding mechanisims in the gear box. it would be worth pulling this to see if it is attached to the shifter mechanisim inside the gear box. the sloppy ball cup, wont make the car fall out of gear.

mark kibort

while you have the ball cup in hand. i would take that to a welder and weld around the part where the shaft enters the ball cup. (remove the plastic insert) its a really weak weld and is why most fail.

gibson36

thanks guys this will help a ton the pics are great ...

Justin

Landseer

I have a G28-08 (1983) 5 speed box that pops out of 4th gear on decel. Pops out so hard it almost shifts itself to 5th.

I think it can be fixed by shimming properly, but am still learning through it.
It is on benchtop waiting for attention.

There exist a set of mechanical interlocks, detent rods and springs, but the early car transmission guides state explicitly they are not for holding the car in a particular gear. Their function is to prevent the other selector shafts from moving while in any given gear.

Didn't the OP's start popping-out just after the hydraulic work?

jon928se

While you have it apart check that the pins (that go through the shifter lever) on the shifter end of both front and rear shifter rods are still welded to the shifter rods. The welds often break introducing yet more play into the system.