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I am so far unable to remove the door lock cylinder (for re-keying). I have the late version with the electrical switch. I have the door panel off, the allen screw removed and the spacers. I can only pull the cylinder partially out and then it hangs up. I can see that there is a small wire harness connected but it is not a simple "unplug" and it appears the switch is attached to the lock cylinder with very small screws. I cannot see what is going on when looking from inside the door. Hesitant to just yank on it for fear of creating a big problem. WSM does not help.
Thanks
On the lock cylinder, there is a 90-degree rotating arm with a 3-4 mm ball on it that protrudes towards the rear of the car. There is a nylon arm about 1-1.25" long whose top fits over the ball. Its other ends connects to another ball in the latching mechanism. If you put the window up, and remove the anti-theft plate (philips head screw on the rearwards facing surface of the door, hex bolt under the door panel, and loosen (but don't remove!) the 13 mm bolt from hell, once the theft plate is out IIRC you can see the lower end of the nylon arm.
Anyway, the arm needs to come off the ball. Can pry at it thru the hole where the allen screw and its threaded surround (comes out with a 10mm allen key). Once the arm is off, the cylinder can be worked out of the door. Surround the lock hole with painters tape so you dont ding the paint.
The lock cylinder wiring harness does not need to be unscrewed from the lock cylinder, it can be unplugged at its harness and threaded through.
You may want to order up a pair of the nylon arms, 928 537 111 04, they're like $2. The thing is, the old ones loosen up with age and use, and it's actually harder to get the arm back ON the ball during reassembly since the arm flops around. New arms will 'stand' in place on the lower ball, making it easier to maneuver onto the lock cylinder ball.
I hate lock cylinder work, it's a giant PITA unless you have size 5.5 hands and are missing a finger or 2.
Thanks Rob, look forward to the pics. Years ago I did a door handle replace on an S4 and I recall the anti-theft plate ( I think I left it off after installing the new handle). I suspect the 13mm from hell was the problem. Are you saying the plate can be removed by only loosening the 13mm?
The theft plate has a little U-shaped channel along its rear edge that slips under the head of the M8 bolt that holds it in place. You just have to loosen the bolt enough to slide the plate towards the front of the car, then finagle it out of the door frame.
Here are a bunch of pics, to illustrate. I'm afraid that I didn't take more detailed pictures of the cylinder disassembly. Bill Ball did an outstanding post on the hatch latch here:
This shows the lock out, you can see the top of the white plastic arm and the hole that the ball mounts in:
Door lock cylinders and their *****:
Inside the door, cylinder and white arm removed. The arrow points to the hole in the door frame that the cylinder's hex bolt goes thru. Don't overtighten this, or you can crack and ruin the lock cylinder. Someone had done this to mine and I had to get a replacement.
If you're re-keying the hatch latch, here are some shots of disassembly
Undo the philips screw to remove the cover to get this:
Exactly what I needed Rob. Can't thank you eneough. Now to beg for more!
How do I remove the hatch trim to disconnect the harness so I can remove the rear latch assembly?
Do the black plastic "rivets" pop loose with prying?
Do I then drill the tiny pins (one visible in your last pic) to get the cylinder out? And are there similar pins in the door locks? And is JB weld the replacement for the pins?
I am almost ready to give up the project but your pics inspire me to give it another go. I need to rekey my pass. door and hatch. Also need to inspect the locking switch in driver lock assembly.
IIRC the hatch trim just pops off with the use of two panel tools. You may be able to unbolt the hatch latch and then wiggle it out from under the trim without popping the trim off.
You don't need to drill the pins out, you take a dremel with a narrow cutting wheel and you make a 45o cut into the cylinder body, angled towards the pin. This exposes one side of the pin and allows you to pry it out with the edge of a small flat screwdriver. The pin gets epoxied in place on reassembly. JB weld would work too, I'd imagine.
There used to be a 'go-to' lock re-key protocol on the 928.org.uk site, but links to it are dead and I don't know if it's somewhere else on the page. Alternatively there's this writeup as well:
Caveat emptor: I eventually chickened out and took my locks to 928Intl, where Pichai expertly finished up the job I'd started. Turns out I couldn't get the lock cylinder out of the lock body because the body had been crushed by the hex bolt, as I mentioned above. Had I been smart enough to recognize this for myself, I probably could have done the job by myself.
This forum is a lifesaver and Rob is the life guard! Got the hatch lock out and on the bench. Two Dremel slices and the cylinder was out. I thought it would need a complete re-key but turned out that just one of the blades was not retracting. Eliminated it entirely and lock works as it should. Bill Ball's pics of centering spring install were a godsend.
Next I attacked the driver door and got the lock assembly out (moved the anti-theft plate some but could not get it clear out). Someone has been into the lock as the slices for pin removal are already there. Problem was that the remote was unlocking pass. door but not locking. Got into the switch and found the spring missing. All good now. Next challenge will be getting it back in, attaching the little rod, and re-positioning the anti theft plate.
Still need to r & r the pass. lock as key does not work there. Two down, one to go!
Could not have done it without you Rob. Yesterday I was ready to give up.
Mounting door lock cylinders back onto the plastic mount and cable?
Can anyone help with how do the door cylinder locks re attach to the white plastic mounts? Are they glued back on? I have a 1980 928. Based on the advice of a forum posting, I twisted off the door lock cylinder from the white plastic mount (see blue arrow). then i send the metal lock cylinders out to be re keyed. Now I don't know how to remount the metal lock/cylinder to the plastic mount? Any advice much appreciated.
The door key lock cylinder just turns on my 1980 928 manual
Can anyone help here? if I put my key into the door key lock it just turns. I doesn't open or lock the door - just spins both ways. I can access the car by lifting the door handle. But i want to be able to lock the door. Any help much appreciated.
NOTE if you can take it apart then you should be able to put it back together.
The biggest asset here is having the desire to learn and make a effort ,
also use these online resources.
NOTE trusting someone else to fix these locks thats not a specialist in them is asking for a redo.
So your usually better off learning how to do them yourself, as you have a vested interest.
NOTE many new owners have figured out that they are usually pretty good with their hands once they decide to apply themselves.
And certainly better than the guy downtown that works on foreign cars that said he could fix your 928.
03-07-2011, 05:16 PM
Help with removing door lock cylinder (1990)
