Intermittent and random stalling of shark
#31
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No, it does not matter (ie, which of the 2 thin injector harness wires you would re-attach to the a) or b) side of the a given injector). They are off/on electromagnets inside, not motors.
Last edited by Landseer; 07-27-2013 at 07:51 AM.
#32
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#34
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New plate 87s4 aut.
While engine running I just lift up passenger side fi harness and engine stalls. Every time.
Tried it 3 times.
I don't think boots are bad I think that whole rear truncated fork area of harness is bad.
Now I am point where I don't trust the whole harness fi.
How can just lifting it stall out an engine. That is reason for hard starts cold and hot.and cut out while driving.
At least the culprit is known. I removed engine and moved harness to windshield maybe there are crusted broken insulation in main harness.
In order to remove whole fi harness from car what is best method? There is a firewall hole I assume. Fi harness is connected to lh or ezk? In passenger footwell?
While engine running I just lift up passenger side fi harness and engine stalls. Every time.
Tried it 3 times.
I don't think boots are bad I think that whole rear truncated fork area of harness is bad.
Now I am point where I don't trust the whole harness fi.
How can just lifting it stall out an engine. That is reason for hard starts cold and hot.and cut out while driving.
At least the culprit is known. I removed engine and moved harness to windshield maybe there are crusted broken insulation in main harness.
In order to remove whole fi harness from car what is best method? There is a firewall hole I assume. Fi harness is connected to lh or ezk? In passenger footwell?
#35
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Clarification I removed engine months ago and to remove engine I unhooked fi harness and laid it on windshield I did mover harness around a bit. Perhaps that alone cracked something in there due to brittleness.
#36
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Funny, I have an 85 that did that, even did a youtube video of it.
Then it stopped abruptly after I manipulated another 20 times or so.
I need to disect one of those 32V harnesses to see what, if anything, is going on inside.
Troubleshooting them is awfully empirical.
Then it stopped abruptly after I manipulated another 20 times or so.
I need to disect one of those 32V harnesses to see what, if anything, is going on inside.
Troubleshooting them is awfully empirical.
#37
Under the Lift
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In my experience the most common location for a short in the injector harness is inside one of the injector boots. However, these cannot be examined without destroying them (you have to cut the boot open). There are replacement connectors with boots. Next most common place is just outside one of the boots where the wires twist and flex, as you appeared to find and insulate. Now, you have noticed lifting one side of the harness seems to create a short and stalls the motor. So, you should try to further isolate the location by manipulating each injector lead individually to see if the short is at one of the injector leads or if it is buried inside the harness trunk, which is less likely since it is so well protected.
#38
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I do notice some outside charring on the main trunk....but I cannot start engine now. I will try to replace all 4 on passenger side and go from there.
At least I now know why I have been having so many problems.
This explains my sudden stall as well.
At least I now know why I have been having so many problems.
This explains my sudden stall as well.
#39
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Land seer I remember seeing that video that reminded me of this problem as I recall u grabbed the wire with pliers etc and it stalled out.
I spliced and soldered all 4 fi plugs new on right side and tried to stall her again. Would not stall.
That means it is the boot, or one of them or several.
My issue is that the boot is really strng and looks really good no crumbling etc...I guess inside is a different story?
I wonder why this happens if the boot is in tact it is there to protect from heat etc.
The other side I flexed harness and can't stall her.
Why is only one side bad?
Maybe it is just a sharp angle in the boot causing copper to touch and nothing to do with heat degradation as the boot is very well intact
I spliced and soldered all 4 fi plugs new on right side and tried to stall her again. Would not stall.
That means it is the boot, or one of them or several.
My issue is that the boot is really strng and looks really good no crumbling etc...I guess inside is a different story?
I wonder why this happens if the boot is in tact it is there to protect from heat etc.
The other side I flexed harness and can't stall her.
Why is only one side bad?
Maybe it is just a sharp angle in the boot causing copper to touch and nothing to do with heat degradation as the boot is very well intact