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I recently put the front seats back in this '85 I am working on. They are powered. The electrics work fine on both seats. The passenger seat is tight, but the drivers seat is loose. I have verified the tracks are bolted tight to the car. However the seat has a little bit of movement forward and backward. You can manually move the seat for/aft on the tracks without using the electrics. It is only moving maybe 1/8" or so, but it is annoying. What would cause this, just worn out motors?
Removed the seat to take a look at what is moving around. The nut elements that thread along the threaded drive shaft move the seat for/aft have excessive play. These bolt straight to the tracks. I don't see anything in PET for a replacement. Anybody have trouble like this before?
The drivers seat manual adjustments worked fine... it was the power seat operation's that made the seat feel it was rising and lowering at a crooked angle. I originally thought that one seat motor was brocken. I unbolted seat and reconnected the power connector and operated the seat. I noticed that only one side of the flexible cable was working. Under further inspection, one end of the cable somehow came loose and reconnected it. This was truly the easiest repair that I've had since owning the dog's ride.
Try to visibly observe seat operations and report back...
Mike - can you elaborate what you meant by excessive play? Do the those rectangular nuts move forward and backward on the worm drive or are do they just move easily in a circular motion around the drive shaft? I had a similar issue, but it was the worm drive that was stripped - your issue may be that the threads on the nut are stripped.
If the nut is stripped, there is unfortnately no orderable part for that assembly. And don't try getting another nut custom made by a machine shop - Porsche used a custom pitch and die for the threads on the worm drive and nut for the seatsand there is no tooling in the US to make one - been down that road. My choices were either a) live with the loose seats, b) buy some used torn up 928 seats and pull out the hardware you need, or c) buy new seats. I ended up going with option c because I found a great deal on some nearly new powered 911 seats that bolted right up. Still wasn't a cheap option though.
It sounds like the same issue as Aryan, except the slop I have is maybe .25".
The rectangular nuts move for/aft on the worm drive. These nuts must have excessive tolerance and partially stripped. The good news is that the electric for/aft adjustment still works (for now). Since these parts are not available, I guess I will live with it until it becomes non-functional and then hopefully I will run across a junker somewhere.
Bill, thanks for the tip about the weird pitch on the worm. I would have tried having a machine shop make new.
I've got some parts that might work for repair from a set of S4 seats. Let me check today and get back to you with pictures to confirm compatibility. They were removed from a pair of seats that were flooded just up to the motors. I used the seats, but threw away the bad motors by swapping another complete set of tracks and motors onto the seats.
But, I kept the tracks. Actually, two sets of tracks. A little surface corrosion, but serviceable in my opinion!!!! That's why I kept them. Surely we can scavenge what you need from them.
After gaining guidance from this post I successfully stopped the what feels like a 1” slide each time I brake. The made nut spacer and end bearing supports were shot, all that was left was hard grease from the factory. Bought Parts from a guy on eBay they fitted perfectly about $60 delivered.
here are some images of my repair which hopefully will guide anyone trying this one.
key things I noted.
-use a battery drill to drive the nut up and down the threaded bar when completed.
-ensure you take images of stack up of parts at each end
-when parts fitted ensure you set drive nuts to same position on each rail before reattaching drive motor shaft. use a tape measure
-while seat is out use a battery to test drive rails back and forth as a test to make sure fittings are not too tight. Would be a shame to have to take seat out twice!!
- ensure before fitting you leave rails all way forward or all way backwards so floor fasteners can be accessed. New bushings and spacers fitted Testing new parts Pressing in new rear end bush Drill saves masses of time Stack up of new parts utilizing old bearing Test wires Now drive spacer on original nut Perfect fit Old and new parts Old grease and deteriorated bushings Don’t over tighten Great fit
After gaining guidance from this post I successfully stopped the what feels like a 1” slide each time I brake. The made nut spacer and end bearing supports were shot, all that was left was hard grease from the factory. Bought Parts from a guy on eBay they fitted perfectly about $60 delivered.
here are some images of my repair which hopefully will guide anyone trying this one.
key things I noted.
-use a battery drill to drive the nut up and down the threaded bar when completed.
-ensure you take images of stack up of parts at each end
-when parts fitted ensure you set drive nuts to same position on each rail before reattaching drive motor shaft. use a tape measure
-while seat is out use a battery to test drive rails back and forth as a test to make sure fittings are not too tight. Would be a shame to have to take seat out twice!!
- ensure before fitting you leave rails all way forward or all way backwards so floor fasteners can be accessed. New bushings and spacers fitted Testing new parts Pressing in new rear end bush Drill saves masses of time Stack up of new parts utilizing old bearing Test wires Now drive spacer on original nut Perfect fit Old and new parts Old grease and deteriorated bushings Don’t over tighten Great fit
Hi,
I have exactly the same issue.
My passenger seat is stuck but I can't remove the seat because the bolt are hide by the seat rail...
03-05-2011, 04:54 PM
Loose front seat
