I have a new set of boges (front and rear) for my 79 as well as the upper ball joint repair kit to install.

I have done searches and read multiple strings and how to's but most seem to be for later cars and suggestions run the full spectrum of pull wheel only to disconnect everything.

Can I change out the rear with only the wheel off or do I need to pull the brake caliper, rotor and dust shield as I have read in some write ups?

Can I change the front by just disconnecting the upper A arm and pulling the wheel liners or do I need to drop the lower control arm as described in some write ups?

Thanks

 

the simple answer is whatever works,

seems that there are different ways to get the shocks out on different years.
I have had luck removing shocks from older and newer style suspensions by removing the upper control arm nut and disconnecting the BJ from the upper A arm other later models have required removal of the lower control arm,
so whatever works
For the rears remove the lower sway link bolt then remove the nut from the front of the lower link pin and slide it out the rear, then you dont have to do anything to the brakes or any part of the brakes.

NOTE there are holes under the hub carrier its a good idea to spary some PB inthose hole as it will wet the link pin and make it easier to remove it.
Roll the pin on a flat surface make sure its straight, use anti seize on the pin B4 you insert it,

Also use thick grease on the cone washers

 

I think is be harder on the front of the early cars because the front shock will not slip through the upper A arm. That is what I found, at least. There was absolutly no way mine were going through. So I basically I had to dismantle the whole front suspension. Lower A arms down and upper A arms loose and mostly off. I did not have a lot of trouble getting the upper A arms loose, though so perhaps you would want to pull them all the way off and do the ball joint boots on the work bench. Much will depend on the condition of your upper A arm studs and nuts.
On the rears the early cars are the same as the late and everything pretty much depends on the big pins that hold the whole thing together. If those are seized you are looking at a big job, if not it is pretty easy.

 

On the rear - I strongly second Stan's suggestion on applying penetrant to the shock pin. In fact, I strongly suggest that you start right now liberally applying penetrant (PB Blaster, 50/50 acetone/ATF, etc.) to every part of the pin that you can get to. Be especially liberal on the exposed areas in the bottom of the upright. Apply the penetrant every day until you do the job.
Remove the forward nut, then use the rear nut to turn and pull the pin. This can be a pain to get out if there is a lot of corrosion.
When you reassemble, be sure that you see the slant on the shock eye, and make sure that you turn the shock the right way.
Be very certain that you see and understand the spherical washers, and that you install them so that they correctly fit into the spherical recesses in the upright.
Apply a good anti-seize to the pin.

 

I may just have been lucky, but I was able to drive mine out pretty easily by tapping on a long 3/8" extension. Mine came out much easier toward the front. Not sure the reason, but I tried both ways and it was same on both sides.

 

On mine, the fronts came off very nice with only upper aframe removed and ball joint still intackt. The rears were as mentioned above. The hardest part was getting the adjustment collars off.

 

On mine, the front upper A-arms were very easy to remove. YMMV.