How about entering two 928s. One slightly midified, to learn what it takes to keep a stock car on the salt and then when the driver has enough experience, use the landspeed record car. Considering you guys never experience anything like this and doing it for the first time in a 900hp car sounds a bit too dangerous.

It's like giving a Cessna pilot an F18 and telling him to punch it!

Last year I watched Speed week on Discovery and there was a guy with a N2O GSXR 1000 that wanted to break the record the first time he was there. He was so confident that he could do it, because it all looked good on paper, but when he hit the salt flat for the first time, tractions became a huge issue and his tune changes right away. Never the less, at the end of the week, the record stood and he was a much humble person than a few days earlier.

 

Easy way might be to mount a strake on each of the screw-on strips that run down the sides of the roof panel, and continue them down the edge of the hatch.

 

I very much appreciate all the ideas, but many of them are outside the rulebook.

The NASCAR roof flap is a good idea, and not allowed. The roof strakes (that I already have) of 1/2" min and 3/4" tall maximum are required - and are meant to "spoil" the air if the car goes sideways to help keep it from achieving lift.

I love the idea of 2 cars... or one car going for several years and slowly working up to it... and that is definately what I should do. But my crew and I are growing weary of these specialty builds and looking forward to just road racing in 2012. I am not certain they want to come back.

First I intend on getting my "Red Hat" for joining the 200 MPH club. :-)
The 175 MPH run and the 200 MPH run will allow me to trim my rear spoiler angle - up if I need more downforce, down if I dont.

Then I want to break Marc Roberts 206 or 209 MPH record in a 928. I think that would make this the "worlds fastest 928" for whatever thats worth.

Then, if car is still stable and engine good, I'll see what she can do.

Franklly, I think the engine oiling is my greatest single issue that I dont have worked out yet. I have an answer in place or in design for every other issue.

But being able to go a steady 7000 rpm with a 928 motor at max load for more than a minute without pumping all of the oil out of the engine - THATS the one that has my attention right now.

 

I thought the oiling issues aren't a problem if you only go straight.

 

Hey Carl;
First off I wish you a good build and a safe run.

I assume that this engine has all of your oil control parts that you sell.

It seems to me that if you are happy with the engine build, then the pressure/windage must be lived with.
The oil drain needs to be the focus and as you said you need to find a solution.

Two ways to do this. stop it from filling so quick or get it back to the pan.

When I raced 1/4 mile all my big blocks got oil restrictors between the head and block to stop the oil from filling the rocker covers.

I do not think that your cams will fail or that the cam journals will get damaged if you cut the feel a modiste amount, say by 1/3. ???

This can be done with restrictor plugs as is what I used, but I also used only a high vol 65psi pump.
Not a 120~psi like the stock porsche pump.

do you see where I am going?
set max pump flow
and/or
install restrictors
and/or
tap a drain in front of the #4 & #8 cylinder lifters at the narrow/thin part of the wall and install a elbow drain and scavenge pump on both sides. Hell you can feed it back to the pan anywhere you want. I would plumb it into the pan the same way with an elbow on the flat part of each side near the front. Simple

Remember, you heard it hear first.

Ya you are right about using an auto trans, maybe even with a locking convertor at the flip of a switch. ?


Brad

 

Are spectators welcome? It sure would be fun to caravan a bunch of West Coasters (looks to be about a 10 hour drive from LA) out there for support and viewing pleasure. Either way, I wish successful and injury free runs for you Carl.

 

Ludicrous speed??? Tony's gone straight to plaid! (Spaceballs reference)

 

Unless things have changed since I was last there, spectators are welcome - no cost.

 

I am anxious to see what you do with side skirts and a rear diffuser. Are you running side exit exhaust so that you can clean up the rear area for a diffuser?

Ken

 

Carl - do you get to use Moon Disc hub caps??

Here is another Bonneville car I was closely following on a different forum:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/316827...-type-65-coupe

Page down and see the rear diffuser here:

http://www.factoryfive.com/whatsnew/...striatext.html

 

When we were there in September, they were asking or charging $10 a head for spectators. I dont know which it was (voluntary or required) as I had a competitors pass and did not have to stop at that table... but either way, spectators are welcome and there arent many.

Brad - way ahead of you but thanks for your input. I have a plan for crankcase evacuation that I will be testing in the coming weeks. Yes - it includes flow restrictors to reduce oil flow to the heads, but that alone is not nearly enough (and be careful there - what the pushrod boys do is not directly relatable to OHC motors).

I believe the success or failure We have data on our current crankcase pressures now, so each time I test different evacuation system iterations I can see if we are going in the right direction. The key here (IMHO) is having adequate pressure differential between the crankcase and the oil canister, as well as adequate CFM air flow through the system. That last bit is being a bear to measure - but we can test it without measurement. I do know that the 1" systems are too small and do not move enough air.

 

Ken - yes, we have drawings for a rear diffuser but have not made it yet. There is a lot still to do. Our fuel cell is a little higher and the exhaust pipes have already been moved outboard to make room for as productive of a rear diffuser as possible.

Its quite a bit different than this one we offer for stock 928's:
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/rear_diffuser.php

Hacker - here is a picture of what we are using, attached in 6 locations to the wheel as required.

The last picture of a tire/wheel mounted is the first attempt to get this done. Thats a billet aluminum wheel I hade made for trial, and found that by the time we got the negative offset in it and yet clearance over the caliper, there was so little section left I felt uncomfortable running it. $640 wasted for one wheel - but that happens more than you know on a project like this...

The tire/wheel challenge is that the land speed tires come in very limited sizes, and I know what outer diameter I need to achieve the speeds I want with this transaxle. And these tires only come in 15" wheel diameter. Now go find a 15" wheel in Porsche bolt pattern (5x130) thats 4.5" wide and has the 928's negative offset to keep the tire nice and tight and under the fenders. Cant find any? Neither could we.

Just an example how even the smallest thing can be difficult.

Like the required 1" lug nuts. Sure - easy for the US cars - but find 1" lug nuts with our metric thread internally. There's another thing we had to make ourselves. 20 custom lug nuts plus a few more in case you loose one... :-)

 

why not use some really tall tires (27" tires, as we use 26" tires to road race on) to change the gearing so that you only need 6-6500rpm to hit the mark?

 

That's awesome, but you need some headlight decals.

 

Those rear tires are 27.8" high