Found a 1989 auto - needs motor rebuild
#16
Burning Brakes
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I intend on doing the work myself in my friends man cave who is a 911 enthusiast and his son is currently restoring a 1985. But I will most likely wait until there is more light and warmer weather in the Spring - Early Summer. That is my plan.
#18
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Your plan could work then.
Parts do add-up very fast if the car is really worn-out.
I refurbed one like that, my first one, it all boiled-down to making the wrong call on the foundation vehicle, and lack of research. Kudos for at least trying to research it.
#19
Burning Brakes
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Yes sorry, you are correct. It is hard for me to digest all the information and perform my job this morning. I find the 928 stimulating, exciting and at times very dirty - just the way I like it.
This is much more fun than my job of managing all material for world wide production of Nacelles and other assemblies for commercial aircraft, although it is interesting also. There is something about the Porsche 928 that I really like. I will see where this leads me. I'm still trying to figure out the idle on my 1981. But that is another thread already.
This is much more fun than my job of managing all material for world wide production of Nacelles and other assemblies for commercial aircraft, although it is interesting also. There is something about the Porsche 928 that I really like. I will see where this leads me. I'm still trying to figure out the idle on my 1981. But that is another thread already.
#20
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I need to think this all the way through. I'll get some pics today and the VIN.
#21
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Water pump freezing / aka stopping could be the result of the pump impeller contacting the block. It has happened. Could be repaired (someone has made a repair/insert kit for the block). But if that is the 'only' issue you may be able to find a suitable long block and just slip it in.. Having Porsche friends is a definite plus. Good luck!
#22
Burning Brakes
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Just researching this car was a valuable lesson to me. Turns out it is a 1988. Good practice for finding out a cars worth. Looks pretty well taken care of actually. Back end driver side looks to have compression cracks in paint. Mostly good clear paint but a lot of dust from being outside so hard to tell.
VIN is WP0JB0920KS860104
A few pics (not very good - it was crowded in his lot. Funny how my 1981 looks the same inside almost.
VIN is WP0JB0920KS860104
A few pics (not very good - it was crowded in his lot. Funny how my 1981 looks the same inside almost.
#23
Team Owner
that looks like a good foundation grabit up and fix it!
#24
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Hard to tell if the body is as straight as it looks. Engine area looks complete. Thrust bearing / end play measurement would be be an important question to answer. Bent valves can be replaced (assuming pistons are ok). Thrust bearing is terminal so an endplay check would be important. But yes, looks like it has potential.
#28
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My perceived value of this year/model 928 would be; 10k if good runner, maint. up to date, very good interior/paint, everything works.
#29
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One tactic might be to make your offer contingent on a numerical reading on crankshaft endplay being within specification.
Might cost $100-$150 or so to get the check made (drag it into a bay, lift, drop exhaust (rusty bolts), drop bell housing cover, release flexplate tension, setup gauge and measure, reassemble).
Valves are one thing. Endplay/thrust bearing issue is in a different category.
Might cost $100-$150 or so to get the check made (drag it into a bay, lift, drop exhaust (rusty bolts), drop bell housing cover, release flexplate tension, setup gauge and measure, reassemble).
Valves are one thing. Endplay/thrust bearing issue is in a different category.
#30
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One tactic might be to make your offer contingent on a numerical reading on crankshaft endplay being within specification.
Might cost $100-$150 or so to get the check made (drag it into a bay, lift, drop exhaust (rusty bolts), drop bell housing cover, release flexplate tension, setup gauge and measure, reassemble).
Valves are one thing. Endplay/thrust bearing issue is in a different category.
Might cost $100-$150 or so to get the check made (drag it into a bay, lift, drop exhaust (rusty bolts), drop bell housing cover, release flexplate tension, setup gauge and measure, reassemble).
Valves are one thing. Endplay/thrust bearing issue is in a different category.