1978 BLK 5 SPD Project- Looking for parts and upgrades
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
1978 BLK 5 SPD Project- Looking for parts and upgrades
I would like to determine what options the car has. I could find nothing online for early cars and I don't see any codes on the car.
If anyone can put me in the right direction, that would be great.
I'm looking for upgrade parts for my 78 Euro that offer potential for braking, handling and hp gains that can be had reasonably.
I'm also considering pulling the motor and going through it since no history is available and it hasn't ran in at least 4 years.
Short list is:
Fuel pumps
Acumulator
Hard fuel lines
S spindles
1980-83 brake setup (understand they were reasonable in price with good performance)
Thanks for any advice and input
If anyone can put me in the right direction, that would be great.
I'm looking for upgrade parts for my 78 Euro that offer potential for braking, handling and hp gains that can be had reasonably.
I'm also considering pulling the motor and going through it since no history is available and it hasn't ran in at least 4 years.
Short list is:
Fuel pumps
Acumulator
Hard fuel lines
S spindles
1980-83 brake setup (understand they were reasonable in price with good performance)
Thanks for any advice and input
#2
Rennlist Member
Advice. Ok.
5 good things about that car's initial condition.
1) ran 2 years ago, and fairly smoothly we were told, on starter fluid as a prequisite to the (very ethical, honest and educated) PO buying it.
2) complete and doesn't look like it was thrashed by a track freak or teenager.
3) dry and not leaking anywhere substantially underneath
4) appears to have new CIS distributor or a newly rebuilt one (blessing or curse- can't assume its right, but should be able to make it right if it isn't)
5) has what appear to be newish, non yellowed, early H4 headlights and complete set of front and rear support lights with no crushing of the bumper shocks.
I'd make it run before disassembling. No reason to pull that engine in the early stages. Nor the interior.
No reason to touch the body. Its straight and but will clearly need to be stripped and sprayed. That's last.
Get brakes and clutch functional enough to drive it around the block.
Put all your effort into the restoration.... of the CIS and fuel supply system!
Don't disassemble the car.
5 good things about that car's initial condition.
1) ran 2 years ago, and fairly smoothly we were told, on starter fluid as a prequisite to the (very ethical, honest and educated) PO buying it.
2) complete and doesn't look like it was thrashed by a track freak or teenager.
3) dry and not leaking anywhere substantially underneath
4) appears to have new CIS distributor or a newly rebuilt one (blessing or curse- can't assume its right, but should be able to make it right if it isn't)
5) has what appear to be newish, non yellowed, early H4 headlights and complete set of front and rear support lights with no crushing of the bumper shocks.
I'd make it run before disassembling. No reason to pull that engine in the early stages. Nor the interior.
No reason to touch the body. Its straight and but will clearly need to be stripped and sprayed. That's last.
Get brakes and clutch functional enough to drive it around the block.
Put all your effort into the restoration.... of the CIS and fuel supply system!
Don't disassemble the car.
Last edited by Landseer; 02-24-2011 at 07:02 AM.
#3
"The minute you disassmble that car, you will end up opportunistically parting it"
Been there done that -
"I'd make it run before disassembling. No reason to pull that engine in the early stages. Nor the interior.
No reason to touch the body. Its straight and will clearly need to be stripped and sprayed. That's last."
Excellent advice!
Been there done that -
"I'd make it run before disassembling. No reason to pull that engine in the early stages. Nor the interior.
No reason to touch the body. Its straight and will clearly need to be stripped and sprayed. That's last."
Excellent advice!
#4
Rennlist Member
The first thing I did to Number Six was fix the hatch - to get to the battery
Second thing was replacing fuel lines. Better get them soaking in Kroil now... they're a bugger!
For me, disassembly on a high level with intent to restore is LONG way off!
I'm going to make sure I have enough money in the bank to put it back together before I even consider that.
You priorities are not far off (just a little "all over the map") - just focus on that fuel system.
If you successfully complete that project (and get the car running), then see priority 2.
Second thing was replacing fuel lines. Better get them soaking in Kroil now... they're a bugger!
For me, disassembly on a high level with intent to restore is LONG way off!
I'm going to make sure I have enough money in the bank to put it back together before I even consider that.
You priorities are not far off (just a little "all over the map") - just focus on that fuel system.
If you successfully complete that project (and get the car running), then see priority 2.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Advice. Ok.
5 good things about that car's initial condition.
1) ran 2 years ago, and fairly smoothly we were told, on starter fluid as a prequisite to the (very ethical, honest and educated) PO buying it.
2) complete and doesn't look like it was thrashed by a track freak or teenager.
3) dry and not leaking anywhere substantially underneath
4) appears to have new CIS distributor or a newly rebuilt one (blessing or curse- can't assume its right, but should be able to make it right if it isn't)
5) has what appear to be newish, non yellowed, early H4 headlights and complete set of front and rear support lights with no crushing of the bumper shocks.
I'd make it run before disassembling. No reason to pull that engine in the early stages. Nor the interior.
No reason to touch the body. Its straight and but will clearly need to be stripped and sprayed. That's last.
Get brakes and clutch functional enough to drive it around the block.
Put all your effort into the restoration.... of the CIS and fuel supply system!
Don't disassemble the car.
5 good things about that car's initial condition.
1) ran 2 years ago, and fairly smoothly we were told, on starter fluid as a prequisite to the (very ethical, honest and educated) PO buying it.
2) complete and doesn't look like it was thrashed by a track freak or teenager.
3) dry and not leaking anywhere substantially underneath
4) appears to have new CIS distributor or a newly rebuilt one (blessing or curse- can't assume its right, but should be able to make it right if it isn't)
5) has what appear to be newish, non yellowed, early H4 headlights and complete set of front and rear support lights with no crushing of the bumper shocks.
I'd make it run before disassembling. No reason to pull that engine in the early stages. Nor the interior.
No reason to touch the body. Its straight and but will clearly need to be stripped and sprayed. That's last.
Get brakes and clutch functional enough to drive it around the block.
Put all your effort into the restoration.... of the CIS and fuel supply system!
Don't disassemble the car.
Anyone have a good source for all the fuel lines, especially the hard lines?
They all look pretty bad underneath and at the tank.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The first thing I did to Number Six was fix the hatch - to get to the battery
Second thing was replacing fuel lines. Better get them soaking in Kroil now... they're a bugger!
For me, disassembly on a high level with intent to restore is LONG way off!
I'm going to make sure I have enough money in the bank to put it back together before I even consider that.
You priorities are not far off (just a little "all over the map") - just focus on that fuel system.
If you successfully complete that project (and get the car running), then see priority 2.
Second thing was replacing fuel lines. Better get them soaking in Kroil now... they're a bugger!
For me, disassembly on a high level with intent to restore is LONG way off!
I'm going to make sure I have enough money in the bank to put it back together before I even consider that.
You priorities are not far off (just a little "all over the map") - just focus on that fuel system.
If you successfully complete that project (and get the car running), then see priority 2.
#7
Rennlist Member
You may want to make a plan of attack, then start fuel system disassembly to determine what you need.
It would make sense to drop the fuel tank to flush it and replace breather hoses and gaskets.
YOU MUST READ SHARKSKIN'S FUEL HOSE/TANK WRITEUPS!
Hoses - LINK
Tank - LINK
Get yourself a set of metric flare wrenches too.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Are the underside hard fuel lines corroded? Or are they the added evap canister air lines?
Unless its inside the engine compartment, I'd use NAPA fuel line and appropriate adapter fittings.
You can make your own custom lengths if needed using a Lisle double-flare kit.
Unless its inside the engine compartment, I'd use NAPA fuel line and appropriate adapter fittings.
You can make your own custom lengths if needed using a Lisle double-flare kit.
Last edited by Landseer; 02-24-2011 at 01:06 PM.
#9
Rennlist Member
Chris,
You brought up a good point.
Charles, since your OB is a ROW/Euro, the breather system may be different, since OE had no charcoal canister (IIRC).
Also, since your car "appears" to have been federalized, it may have had work done to bring it in line with EPA req's.
If so, you may want to get really familiar with the stock breather system, and also look around for a schematic of the modified system (may be a sticker on the car somewhere).
You brought up a good point.
Charles, since your OB is a ROW/Euro, the breather system may be different, since OE had no charcoal canister (IIRC).
Also, since your car "appears" to have been federalized, it may have had work done to bring it in line with EPA req's.
If so, you may want to get really familiar with the stock breather system, and also look around for a schematic of the modified system (may be a sticker on the car somewhere).
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
"The minute you disassmble that car, you will end up opportunistically parting it"
Been there done that -
"I'd make it run before disassembling. No reason to pull that engine in the early stages. Nor the interior.
No reason to touch the body. Its straight and will clearly need to be stripped and sprayed. That's last."
Excellent advice!
Been there done that -
"I'd make it run before disassembling. No reason to pull that engine in the early stages. Nor the interior.
No reason to touch the body. Its straight and will clearly need to be stripped and sprayed. That's last."
Excellent advice!
Last edited by cpayne; 02-24-2011 at 01:55 PM.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I would feel better with new fuel lines unless it is cost prohibitive.
The accumulator was cut out. If the lines are usable I don't know if I could fit a a new hard line and accumulator with the old or if I would want to.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Roger, stocks the rubber fuel lines, and may be able to source the hard lines.
You may want to make a plan of attack, then start fuel system disassembly to determine what you need.
It would make sense to drop the fuel tank to flush it and replace breather hoses and gaskets.
YOU MUST READ SHARKSKIN'S FUEL HOSE/TANK WRITEUPS!
Hoses - LINK
Tank - LINK
Get yourself a set of metric flare wrenches too.
You may want to make a plan of attack, then start fuel system disassembly to determine what you need.
It would make sense to drop the fuel tank to flush it and replace breather hoses and gaskets.
YOU MUST READ SHARKSKIN'S FUEL HOSE/TANK WRITEUPS!
Hoses - LINK
Tank - LINK
Get yourself a set of metric flare wrenches too.
If you ever start to miss wrenching on an OB while #6 is away. There is another way to get your fix . I'll look at getting a set of Flare wrentches.
Thanks
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'll go by NAPA and see what they have. Thanks
#14
Rennlist Member
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Chris,
You brought up a good point.
Charles, since your OB is a ROW/Euro, the breather system may be different, since OE had no charcoal canister (IIRC).
Also, since your car "appears" to have been federalized, it may have had work done to bring it in line with EPA req's.
If so, you may want to get really familiar with the stock breather system, and also look around for a schematic of the modified system (may be a sticker on the car somewhere).
You brought up a good point.
Charles, since your OB is a ROW/Euro, the breather system may be different, since OE had no charcoal canister (IIRC).
Also, since your car "appears" to have been federalized, it may have had work done to bring it in line with EPA req's.
If so, you may want to get really familiar with the stock breather system, and also look around for a schematic of the modified system (may be a sticker on the car somewhere).
Plan is
Drain replace fluids as needed.
Fuel delivery system R/R
Battery
CE Panel R/R (Another Alarm hack job) What beer to you like Jim
Brakes
cross fingers
Start engine
Clutch
Brakes
Drive like hell
Order subject to change. may move cross fingers before each item.