Jim A

Today, I replaced the timing belt on my 86.5 Euro 5 speed. I’ve done this twice before and followed the John Pirtle procedure. Now, the car does not start, I think due to a fuel delivery problem. The car worked fine yesterday before I started. First, I disconnected the battery, and then got to it.

After replacing the TB and installing everything, the motor turns over and does not sound like it is getting fuel or spark. I checked the coil wires, and have spark. I also squirted a SMALL amount of ether into the air filter housing. The motor increased RPM slightly higher than the starter RPM for about two seconds. I think it is OK regarding spark.

The fuel pump relay does not turn on in the ACC or start key positions. I replaced the relay, and still, it does not turn on. I removed the cover from the original relay, and inserted it. When I manually push the contacts together, the fuse is energized, and the pump turns on. While holding the contacts together, and turning the key, the motor simply turns over, and does not try to start. There is no fuel smell under the hood or at the exhaust. Tomorrow, I will replace the relay with a known good one.

The TB procedure does not involve the fuel delivery system. Knowing I was doing the TB, is there something that I may have inadvertently done to the fuel or vacuum lines? I have checked and double checked all connections and fittings. I drove the car into my garage, disconnected the battery, jacked it up and replaced the TB. It seems odd to me that fuel delivery was working before the TB procedure, and not after.
Thanks in advance, for any ideas.
Jim

ammonman

Have you checked the condition of the 14-pin plug? I recently replaced the plastic housing for the 14-pin as the top cover would move, allowing the male pins to slide up into the housing and lose contact.

Mike

Jim A

Hi Mike,

I did not disconnect it, but I will check it. I may have pushed against the harness removing the inspection cover.
Thanks

Stromius

Temp II reconnected?

Landseer

The EZH & LH relays, and the fuel pump relay, can all be bypassed with jumper wires.

Is the little red wire attached to the red battery terminal clean?

Did you disturb the coil wires or final stage ignition amps when doing the timing belt work (they are in proximity) Are coil wires hooked up? Not nicked?

WallyP

Find TDC - Compression on #1 by pulling the plug and feeling for compression, then make sure that the rotor points at the wire going to #1.

Tony

Plug wires mixed up.

Jim A

I did not pull the plug wires, only disconnected the coil wires and tied the distributor caps out of the way. I did disconnect the left side rotor. If the left rotor was installed wrong, would the right side work, and I would have misfiring on the left? The rotor was marked and replaced in the same position.
There is no fuel odor.

Landseer

It will only install in one position because of spacing of the 3 screw holes on the cam and rotor.

Jim A

Thanks for the suggestions.
Ammonman – the 14 pin is checked, cleaned, and appears OK.
Stromius – Temp II was not disconnected. I have not disconnected it yet to measured resistance. It is original, and I must be careful not to break it. I do not have a connector removal tool. If OK in a troubleshoot sequence, I will test this as a last resort.
Landseer – The LH relay has a jumper in place. I do not know what the EZH is. Battery terminals are cleaned. All grounds are cleaned per WallyP’s annual procedure. I think I am getting good spark, just no fuel.
WallyP – I am at TDC with rotor in the correct position.
Tony – The plug wired were not disconnected at any time. I only disconnected the coil wired from the underside of the distributors. They reconnected fine.

Tonight, I replaced the fuel pump relay with a known good one, the pump did not buzz. When I jumper the fuel relay, the pump buzzes, but the motor does not start. Since the pump runs when jumping the relay, any ideas on why it does not operate with a good relay?
Any more ideas?

Steve Cattaneo

Confirm fuel pressure at the Fuel rail with a gauge, you could have the crank pulley installed backwards which would have timing 180 off.

Jim A

Problem solved…My error…after I parked in the garage, and before I began dismantling for the TB, I spent a little time troubleshooting what was a blown radio fuse. Then, I decided to remove clean and re-insert the fuses. I continued on with the relays. I noticed a missing relay, and since I have about 10 #53’s, I put one in position XV, Kickdown. Stupid me. Thinking back on all I did this weekend, I recalled inserting the relay and tonight I removed it. VROOOOM! The timing belt is working well. Spark and fuel are working together again. Inserting the 53 to XV prevented the fuel pump relay from energizing.
Thank you all for your suggestions. I am glad I didn’t blow the brain.

SeanR

Jim, do not feel bad about that, I have encountered that a few times. Little known fact that if you put one in that relay spot, it kills the car.

I spent a couple hours trouble shooting a situation exactly as you just did, and the owner had done that with relays. I wish he had told me he messed around in the CE panel before I started to dig in.

ammonman

Glad you found it Jim. Whenever I have a strange problem like that I remember the sage advice of Mr. Merlin and "Go back to the last thing you fixed....."

Landseer

I didn't know that about the kickdown relay position.