Hello,
I am just recovering from the cost of the water pump/belt service and now I find myself with a chirping Throwout bearing. Money is pretty tight and the few searches of parts suppliers have shown $1000+ clutch kits. First of all, my 928 seems to be an early '89 body #0472 so does it take the '89 kit? It seems there is a break from '88 to '89 model year. Second, is there a way of replacing just the throwout bearing cheaply? I have seen it is a costly part on it's own $250+ but wondered if maybe it was a common bearing that could be pressed into throwout bearing ***'y. Forgive me if that was a stupid question as I have not had it open to see it. I hate being cheap and would rather change the whole clutch (car has 114K miles and may be on original clutch) but money being tight, is their a cheaper alternative? (sachs or other without the Porsche name). Is there anything else that needs to be changed in an '89 at the same time? (have searched postings and it seems some years need some upgrading)
Thanks,
Diehard

 

I just did this job on a 89 S4
we replaced the single disc, Pressure plate was good with min wear on the fingers and contact surface
the pilot bearing,
the throwout bearing
the release arm, So it matches the new TOB
the bushing for the release arm
The guide tube so it matches the TOB.
And get a tube of the Porsche grease,
the stub shaft was still good ,
I got the parts from Roger and it was about 800.00,
thats about as inexpensive as it can be.
To do it you have to slide the bellhousing back about 2 inches .
so you remove the 2 bolts on the trans mounts and put a jack under the trans so it will slide back.
you can leave the 2 lower bolts in the bell,
but remove the top 2,
have the lower bell bolts threaded atleast 5 threads into the bell and remove the manifold brackets first.
its a dirty job

 

Is this only on early cars? I have never heard of this and didn't do it on my former '86 or my GT when removing the clutch.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

 

sliding back the bell made it very easy to remove the PP and disc
I was working on my back so not a lot of room, it may be possible to drop the single disc clutch pack without sliding the bell back but when i tried it was binding up at the top, i had the 2 tach pins at the bottom

 

see here for a possible TOB purchase
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-for-sale.html

 

928 is one of the easiest cars in the world to do the clutch on. Why not consider just replacing the TO bearing. If other parts fail in the future you can do it again later. Or if you pull it apart and find you need other stuff you can go deeper. I hear that Roger can rebuild your TO bearing to better than stock.

 

So if the 928 is an easy clutch job, what makes the 944 clutch job so notorious when the driveline is the same basic design?

 

This.

Dropping the clutch is fast and easy (once you've done it once and know where to slot in the spacers to relieve the pressure before unbolting).

Given money is tight, you can buy just the bearing - its possible to remove the actual bearing from the unit, by removing a circlip, so even if you can only get a GTS version throwout bearing, you can take the bearing off the GTS unit and replace your noisy bearing.

Save the extra money for the other catch-up and preventative maintenance you need (and beer).

 

Not sure what went wrong with the 944 design, but yes, a 944 needing a clutch often means a 944 parted out. Something like $1500 just for labor last time I had it done. And not really a job you want to tackle yourself unless you have a winter with nothing to do. I have done a 928 clutch R and I in under an hour.

 

The 944 is a PITA, you have to remove the transmission, and then slide the TT back as far as is possible. And even then, you have to pull this pin out of the bellhousing, but it has a M8 bolt hole for attaching a slide hammer. This should really be an M10!

On the 89 928 S4 you can drop the clutch without spacing out the bellhousing.
On all single disc clutch models (87+) I have yet to see 1 that you can actually install the spacers into to hold the clutch slightly disengaged.
But that made no difference to me.

Call Rog100 and get a new bearing. It will arrive as a GTS style bearing.

Remove your clutch, and then you will see a circlip on the bearing. (facing flywheel if memory serves) if you remove this, you can then remove the bearing from the flywheel attachment piece. You can do the same with the old bearing and then simply swap bases.
If you do not do this, then you need to upgrade to the GTS throwout bearing, guide tube, and release arm.

 

You can use the ratchet strap trick to get the spacers installed. There's a good writeup around here somewhere.

 

What did you pay for TB/WP service?

 

Diehard, I have one of the old style release bearings. It's new and because it's the old style you won't need to replace the clutch release arm nor the guide tube. I'd definately do the pilot bearing and the release arm bushing, both are cheap. Good time to put in a new disc as well. Throw out bearing is $125 shipped if you want it.

 

I've never separated the bell housings when doing clutch jobs. It's tight, but very doable.

 

It's the intermediate shaft. A short piece of shaft that connects to the torque tube using a coupler. Ya loosen the coupler, slide it back, and the clutch pack will come out. Sometimes suddenly and the *(&% is heavy.

Hasn't someone replaced just the bearing inside the TO assembly?