Landseer

Hugely important.

Bill, do you remember the thickness of that washer?

Bill Ball

Dwayne's priceless guide:
http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.o...0Procedure.htm

My personally learned-the-hard-way tips.
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/...rces-noWSM.doc

Bill Ball

Thick enough to cause the tensioner roller to rub on the back of the harmonic balancer when you mistakenly put it on the backside of the roller.

Based on Dwayne's before and after pics, he didn't appear to put it back on. I think its purpose is to buffer possible wear on a plastic piece in there by the tensioner spring. I come across it being missing often. I don't know if it is important. When I've found it missing, nothing looked that bad. I don't think it affects tension when it is missing, as you would just screw in a bit more to get to the same pressure.

JWise

Good luck George! You are a man of detail and precision, two qualities that will serve you well in this endeavor.

GeorgeM

Thanks for the tips and votes of confidence, guys. Patience is the 3rd quality in that triad Jerrod, the piece that I'm usually short of. Fortunately, time is on my side, as I really have no agenda for the car until early April.... then SITM.

70K on these original gears. I'll post pics soon.

nc_growler

+1! Great advice... Follow it...

GeorgeM

Check these out... Drivers side is at the zero mark (pardon the camera's parallax error - the needle is centered in the V notch), but the passenger's side is at -5 on the 32V'r scale. I haven't removed or changed anything.

Based on comments in the WSM or TSBs as noted below from an old Wally P post, the marks can be anywhere, but the actual timing should be zero if not previously disturbed. I have no indication that it has been disturbed, nor any indication or record that these are not the original gears - the wear backs up the latter.

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Factory Workshop Manuals, Page 15-14 (Refers to the 16-valve engine)
"Should the teeth of a hand-tightened camshaft belt not match the sprocket pitch accurately enough, turn pertinent camshaft sprocket counter-clockwise carefully until teeth match".

For the 32-valve engines, either position could be correct. The cams can be (and should have been) moved inside the camshaft sprockets so that the cams are exactly in time, even though the cam sprockets are slightly off the marks.

This, of course, means that you should have noted the original position before removing the timing belt...
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Herman K

DS adjusted to 0 and the PSU t0 +2

PorKen

Minus two (-2) on the 1-4 side when set cold, zero (0) on the 5-8 is the default PK32V'r setting.

The note above is correct, though. Belt stretch when adjusting the 1-4 cam will change the reading. If you want to get (-2), set to zero. After spinning the engine with the starter to resettle the belt, the reading should be (-2).

GeorgeM

dprantl

I have seen much worse wear than that.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

blown 87

As I have, still does not change that his are wore out and due for replacement.

Mrmerlin

nice job George the only things i saw missing from your parts table was the short hose for the HCV and a new coolant cap

Mrmerlin

BTW that washer that Bill points out has to be installed otherwise the belt warning system will not function as it should,
the washer adds preload to the spring in effect making the spring stronger and thus able to break the contact of the plunger and piston at a higher belt tension

without it the belt will have to get more loose before the warning system will trigger,( not a good thing)

GeorgeM

HCV short hose replaced with the HCV and coolant cap previously replaced. Replaced the other coolant hoses recently, and the heater hoses this time around (not a fun evolution), so I think I got 90% of them.

The tensioner washers/spring and all came off as installed, besides I had the diagram (thanks, Bill) to guide me. They were on there as advertised, so good on the previous mech.

I have a stuck tensioner bolt (the one on the pass side), so zero progress until I can get it out. In the meantime, I replaced the crank and oil pump seals. Only so much cleaning to be done while the bolt soaks...

The WP had sealant... what's the consensus on that.. dry gasket or add some goop? The sealing surface is in pretty nice shape.

Thanks for all the support/guidance.... and to Greg for sage advice and offering his tools.