Removing oil cooler lines from radiator any tips
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Removing oil cooler lines from radiator any tips
Need to remove the radiator due to passenger side end tank leak, tried removing the top oil cooler line from radiator so far its not budging, any tips , tricks ? I have the connectors soaked in penetrating oil.
#2
Rennlist Member
You will obviously need a well fitting wrench thin enough to get on the hex closest to the tank (under the cooler line nut) to counter hold the adapter, and one for the nut. If possible have another person hold the first wrench as it shouldnt move with the nut as this can damage the cooler inside the tank, and you push the nut wrench from pax side . If you have the access, it helps if you can jam the adapter wrench against something, like the side of the inner fender wall, so it cant move.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k, BTDT.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k, BTDT.
#3
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
As JP instructs, you need to counterhold the cooler fitting with a thin 32mm wrench while you turn the nut on the hose fitting. In my collection of things I have some A/C fitting wrenches from K-D tools that fit the bill perfectly, some 30+ years in my toolbox though and no longer sold by them. I've heard of others finding 32mm bicycle crank bearing wrenches that do the same thing. The wrenches I use are paired flat and offset. One flat goes on the cooler fitting, the offset on the nut, making the outer ends touch. A simple hand squeeze is all it takes to pop the nut loose.
There are others who have taken a grinder to a 32mm adjustable spanner of some sort.
There are others who have taken a grinder to a 32mm adjustable spanner of some sort.
#5
Team Owner
put some anti seize on the flange of the line before you screw the coupler nut on, this will make it easy to come apart next time
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Find a small spring compressor (one completely too wimpy to use on 928 springs) connect it to the ends of the two wrenches you are using to undo the fittings. Carefully "compress" the ends of the two wrenches together.
Allows you to use much more force on the wrenches in a much more controlled manner. Pretty much eliminates the chance of that big heave causing the fitting to rotate (THAT YOU REALLY DON"T WANT)
Allows you to use much more force on the wrenches in a much more controlled manner. Pretty much eliminates the chance of that big heave causing the fitting to rotate (THAT YOU REALLY DON"T WANT)
#7
Rennlist Member
Just as Dr Bob says bike shops are a good source of very slim quality spanners
used to adjust the bearings in bottom brackets, headsets and axles.
They don't have a full range of sizes if they have the size you need they are a
better and cheaper option than grinding down a regular spanner.
The ones I use are made by Park.
used to adjust the bearings in bottom brackets, headsets and axles.
They don't have a full range of sizes if they have the size you need they are a
better and cheaper option than grinding down a regular spanner.
The ones I use are made by Park.
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#8
Team Owner
BTW the wrenches you will need are 27MM and 32 for the nut