UncleMaz

When i stripped mine on my 944, I had a friend weld a stubby bolt where the hex/allen hole was in situ. It worked so well, I ended up using the modified plug instead of buying a new one.

blown 87

It might have helped if you had cleaned the plug out first.

jeff spahn

I hate to be a party pooper but I agree with Greg. When using any keyed bolt, clean, clean, clean is the only way to go.

GregBBRD

Order a new plug. People overtighten these taper metric pipe plugs, all the time. They are always very hard to remove. If you use a good 1/2" air or electric impact gun on them, they come out better.

Clean the grease/dirt out of the old plug.

Take your allen tool that 928 Motorsports sold you to your local muffler shop. Pay them $10.00 to weld the allen wrench into the old plug. The heat that the welding makes will help the thing release. Remove the plug with the allen welded to it. Have the muffler shop guy cut off the allen socket, with a cut off saw, behind the weld. You will end up with a "shorter" allen tool that doesn't twist sideways as easily, when you try to turn your ratchet.

Snap-on makes a really nice short allen tool, just for this operation.

The tool they sold you is a generic allen tool that works...but there are way better pieces available.

James Bailey

You can easily remove the rear cover and take it to a machine shop and have them remove the plug. It is quite simple if you have the tools.....the gasket is very little money just thin paper.

rockatansky

Thanks everybody. This forum keeps impressing me. I see there is a lot of options I have to fix the problem. I will study carefully one by one all your advices and with the tools that I have now and the ones I will get, I'll try (probably different things) to solve the problem.

The rattle gun seems like a really useful tool for this tasks and I see they are not expensive. I don't have the car near me know but I think that there are not space on the upper bolt to loosen it with a rattle gun. Don't remember what part of the car is blocking this space now. Maybe it could be removed prior to using the rattle. In any case, the first step will be examine and clean the hole and see which could be the better way you suggest; torx, chisel, heat, etc... and also decide if it's better to remove the rear plate and work on it away from the car.

I really learn about the 'clean clean clean' the hole prior to trying to loose the bolt. I will never forget. I could call a mechanic but I'm sure I will not feel the same driving my 928 in the future if I do that.

I prefer to break things...

Thanks a lot everybody, sorry for not answering one by one, too many posts. I will keep you informed about the process and the way I choose to fix it, and of course I promise I will post the pictures of this @#*! out.

(forget to thank Jim for the part numbers and Steen, I think the cracks you see are not really fatigue cracks. I think is more an effect of the dirt+flash+marks of the tools, etc. Not sure, but when I get again down there I will check it but apart from dirty, I don't remember seeing it specially fatigued)

James Bailey

It is so much easier working on it with the plate off the car. Upside down over your head in a tight space with a flexible ratchet wrench and a too long allen bit makes it so easy to round off the plug.....But with the plate clamped into a vise on a proper work bench it should be easy to remove. These are often over tight which is why I always tell people to remove the FILL plug BEFORE they drain the transaxle.....just in case they want to DRIVE the car to see a mechanic

rockatansky

James, probably I read your advice in an old post, and that's why I start loosening the upper bolt. I use to read a lot on the forum prior to any task on the car, but... sometimes it's not enough.

In this case the car is not ready yet to be driven to a mechanic, but at least the oil is still in there probably thanks to you.

fraggle

I think experience is knowing when it's OK to break something.

My $50 husky 1/2 rattle gun has paid for itself about a hundred times. All it has to do it work once and you're in the clear. I'd recommend buying one, if you keep working on your 928 you'll be happy you did!

PB Blaster is my other favorite. I too once thought wd40 was for penetrating stuck bolts. Bah it's crap!

And always remember there's no mechanical situation that more money can't fix.

rockatansky

fraggle, I'm going to get a rattle gun. You all talk really well about this tool, so I have no doubts getting one. I will use it for sure with the other two plugs of the trans which will be as tighten as this one. I will use it too on the broken one if I find a way to do it.

Also PB Blaster seems good product, the problem is that maybe it will be harder to find any in my country. I will try... thanks.

WallyP

Perhaps the best penetrant of all is a mixture of 50% acetone and 50% transmission fluid...

rockatansky

Just to update about the messed up screw on the transmission. I used almost all your advices on this to fix the problem, and every one comes really good on the task:

I clean a lot the surfaces, used a small torch to heat the zone, apply several days penetrating oil, buy a rattle gun, release the two left drain screws in the trans without huge problems, remove the back cover of the trans removing the 10 screws (there is one at the upper side that gave me really hard headaches because of the small space with the battery compartment).

Put the cover on the floor, and with the Dewalt (400nm rattle gun) and after heat and cold process several times... and after 2 minutes of ta-ta-ta-ta-ta-ta-ta on the screw, finally it just turn and got loose. GREAT!.

I have also bought new drain screws for replacement. I have clean the inside of the cover and I'm waiting for a new gasket before closing the trans case again. Any advice to do (about cleaning or something) with the interior of the transmission before I close it out again?...

Thanks a lot guys for your help with the drain plug.

Dave928S

Good to hear it all worked out well

If you didn't notice any metal at the bottom of the case, and you've wiped away any obvious minor sediment, then you can just close it up. Make sure you put a little anti seize (or liquid teflon thread seal) on the threads of the plugs before you put them back, to stop them seizing again .. and don't over tighten.

rockatansky

Thanks Dave, I will try to eliminate any sediment that I find. There were some metal sediments catched by the magnet plugs which are already out. I have already 4 bottles of new redline oil for the trans.

I will get the anti seize to avoid future problems as you mention. And I will not over tighten as the previuos owner. I have the proper tools to set the right torque on them. I will check the wsm to see how many nm they need.

Dave928S

22Nm (16ft/lbs) for plugs. As they are a taper plug, and antiseize will make them a bit easier to tighten, go a bit by feel and only tighten as much as is necessary to give a seal and stop them loosening ... even if that's a little bit less.

I don't understand why Porsche went for taper plugs ... especially on the top inspection plug that is opened more often, where they could have used a parallel thread and washer.