When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Figured I would describe with some pics that I took. I can't say everyone would have as easy a time, and I also have a lift. Car is a '84 Euro S without cats so I can remove my bellhousing in 5 minutes. After getting my car a couple of weeks ago, I realized that I had 0 bushing left for the clutch arm. From below, on my car you slide the clutch arm up and down after it is disconnected from the ball on top of the bellhousing. I pushed it up and moved it to the side and above ball and held it in place from the bottom with a socket and extension leveraged against a drip tray.
I then lowered the car and removed the air cleaner assembly to gain access from above. From this position the cup on the arm is above the pivot ball so I just pushed the new cup bushing in.
I raised the car back up and with a light I was able to see the ball clearly as well as the top of the clutch arm with the new bushing on it. I moved it around until it was lined up with the ball and then was able to use a prybar between the bottom of the arm and the pressure plate. It didn't take much effort at all. I figured if it was really tight, I could do it from above after getting it lined up and started from below.
The problem with from above is that you can't hold the arm in place while you try to press the cup on. Here it is all pressed on.
On my old '86 I remember doing it all from above. I levered the arm off the ball and pushed it to the side, cleaned out the arm and slid the new bushing in, lined it back up, then pressed the clutch and it popped onto the ball.
I would have thought you'd need to shim the PP in order to release the spring pressure on the arm, so you can get the arm off the ball, but I guess not. Huh.
"In your case was there any old material you had to get out first and if so was that easy also?"
No, there was no leftover bushing in the cup of the arm. Just a little dirty grease.
"I would have thought you'd need to shim the PP in order to release the spring pressure on the arm, so you can get the arm off the ball, but I guess not. Huh."
Don't know. Maybe something more is wrong with my clutch? I took it for a short drive and it definitely eases up my shifter. When I drove it home 2 weeks ago, I had very stiff and non direct shifts. The clutch engagement was also very high, almost at the top. I figured a fairly worn clutch and no bushing left the system barely able to disengage the clutch. Also, my slave was shot when I got the car and that has been replaced as well.
After getting mine 6 years ago, I tell everyone it is the best tool I ever purchased. I would rather have a lift and a 135 piece Craftsman set than $3000 worth of Snap-On tools.
My GTS was making weird squeeky clunking noises when my ball cup died.
Took it to DFW GTG for a tech session. The darn thing was apart before I could even get under the car. In fact, with all the help on hand there wasn't even space for me to get a good look at what was going on let alone turn a wrench. They did graciously escort me out of viewing range right after someone picked up a big crowbar and mumbled something about getting the new cup to pop on. I was expecting to put in a new clutch and throwout, but it was only a brittle brown and crumbled ball cup.
Those Dallas guys did all the work, but they did get me drunk and forced me to put an X-pipe back on instead of the stock H pipe n cats.
Following the recommendations in post #1 I just did mine in about 45-50 minutes I could not raise the cup in the clutch lever above the ball but by backing it down a bit I managed to place the new bushing in the cup on the lever by using a long rod with the tip bend at 45 degrees to hold the bushing at the right angle.
Maybe the lever changed over the years but mine not only can turn on its axis, but it also has about 1" vertical groove that allows the upward movement to raise above the ball. You can see in pic 2 how far above the ball it is.
This is post is a nice little piece of gold, I will have to try out. The bushing on my 88 seems to have come dislodged from the clutch lever (or was never seated properly. Here is a video showing the clutch fork moving but the pink bushing staying in place.
'
I'll pull the air cleaner and evaluate from the top, maybe I can snap it on, or possibly use the technique here to replace the bushing. I do know my clutch disk is relatively new in terms of wear. So maybe I'll need to shim it. Not sure I understand that process.
I will take a dremel and with a sanding drum open the hole just lil bit ,
this makes it easier to push the bushing onto the ball.
then toss the bushing into some very hot water.
put a dab of DC111 into the ball cup and use a prybar to push it onto the ball.
With the slave cylinder removed from the release arm
you can put the arm onto the bushing
Then slide the cleaned out arm over the new bushing and it will slide onto the bushing
My GTS was making weird squeeky clunking noises when my ball cup died.
Took it to DFW GTG for a tech session. The darn thing was apart before I could even get under the car. In fact, with all the help on hand there wasn't even space for me to get a good look at what was going on let alone turn a wrench. They did graciously escort me out of viewing range right after someone picked up a big crowbar and mumbled something about getting the new cup to pop on. I was expecting to put in a new clutch and throwout, but it was only a brittle brown and crumbled ball cup.
Those Dallas guys did all the work, but they did get me drunk and forced me to put an X-pipe back on instead of the stock H pipe n cats.
I highly recommend it.
Is there a certain part you would recommend? Or do you recommend the whole experience?
I will take a dremel and with a sanding drum open the hole just lil bit ,
this makes it easier to push the bushing onto the ball.
then toss the bushing into some very hot water.
put a dab of DC111 into the ball cup and use a prybar to push it onto the ball.
With the slave cylinder removed from the release arm
you can put the arm onto the bushing
Then slide the cleaned out arm over the new bushing and it will slide onto the bushing
I think a pretty good argument can be made that by the time the bushing disintegrates, it's time to pull the entire clutch, clean, inspect, relubricate, replace any worn parts, and re-assemble.
Well, I am stuck. I think the 35-min job is based on the assumption that the OP clutch was fairly worn out. My clutch disk is fairly new measuring at over 10mm thick and there is not enough room to disengage the clutch lever fork from the upper pivot bushing.
Here is a pick of the upper bushing in my car. As you can see the bushing is stuck on the ball but not seated in the clutch fork lever arm. I tried to press the arm onto the bushing from above and below using various leverage and no dices. At best there is 3mm of bushing sticking out of the arm.
I have a replacement bushing that I would like to install but I am having difficulty getting the arm off without dropping the clutch. I tried to push the lever off the bushing but I could not get enough clearance.
I am thinking I can preload the clutch diaphragm spring using a ratcheting tie-down strap on from the bottom clutch lever to the rear lower control arm. And then add a shim someplace to hold it in place so I can release the clutch lever and then have a bit more room to work with between the release bearing and the collar. Does this sound right?
Can someone confirm where I put the shim on the single disk clutch? Is it the angle shim shown here?
Or is it the U shaped shim here?
02-09-2011, 05:01 PM
Clutch arm bushing easy 35 min. install
475hp/460lb.ft
