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Clutch arm bushing easy 35 min. install

 
Old 11-14-2018, 02:07 PM
  #16  
SwayBar
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Can't you just remove the slave cylinder which will then allow you to easily move the arm?
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Old 11-14-2018, 02:09 PM
  #17  
Michael Benno
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Originally Posted by SwayBar View Post
Can't you just remove the slave cylinder which will then allow you to easily move the arm?
Slave is removed.
Lower bell housing removed.
Still not enough room.

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Old 11-14-2018, 02:48 PM
  #18  
Rob Edwards
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Single disc shim:

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Old 11-14-2018, 03:22 PM
  #19  
Michael Benno
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Thanks rob, that’s wha I needed. I’m off to make some brackets
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:42 PM
  #20  
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once you pry back the release arm and install the spacers then you should have enough room to pull the arm off the bushing.

NOTE put some contact cement on each of the spacers so they dont fall out when you install them
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Old 11-14-2018, 11:52 PM
  #21  
Michael Benno
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
once you pry back the release arm and install the spacers then you should have enough room to pull the arm off the bushing.
NOTE put some contact cement on each of the spacers so they dont fall out when you install them
The contact cement seems like a good idea. I'd assume that's also useful to keep them in as you are rotating the clutch to each of the three inspection ports.
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Old 11-15-2018, 01:40 AM
  #22  
Rob Edwards
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Yes. AND- make sure your angle shims don't stick out too far towards the edge of the pressure plate, you don't want them contacting the bellhousing and locking up the motor (you can always turn it backwards a ways if needed but that's kind of nerve wracking.....)
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Old 11-18-2018, 01:45 AM
  #23  
Michael Benno
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Default Success!

I was able to install the shims on the clutch plate and that allowed be enough room to pry the clutch fork off the bushing ball. The bushing one in pretty easily but getting the bushing lined up with the ball in the clutch fork was A huge pain in the *** by myself. I tried the Jack track but I kept getting it wrong. I had a friend come over and we were able to pop it on in about 15 minutes. Everything is back together now so thanks everyone for the help and guidance.

The one bit of advice I would add to this thread is to reapply high friction grease to the respective contact point described in the wsm once you have the clutch fork off the ball. It’s a lot easier to get in there with a long modeling paint brush when the lever can be moved around.
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Old 11-18-2018, 10:44 AM
  #24  
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Congrats!
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Old 11-18-2018, 08:40 PM
  #25  
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If I am reading this right it sounds like you did not follow my advice and actually used more force than necessary to do this job.

First use a dremel to open the bushing up, use a barrel sander tip
(this is where the ball slips through.)
Put the modified bushing into hot water, for a few mins.
put a dab of DC111 into the bushing ,
then with a long prybar and a small piece of 2x4,
pry the bushing onto the ball.

NOTE, Once the bushing is on the ball .
Then move the arm over and slip the arm over the bushing
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:43 PM
  #26  
Michael Benno
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
If I am reading this right it sounds like you did not follow my advice and actually used more force than necessary to do this job.

First use a dremel to open the bushing up, use a barrel sander tip
(this is where the ball slips through.)
Put the modified bushing into hot water, for a few mins.
put a dab of DC111 into the bushing ,
then with a long prybar and a small piece of 2x4,
pry the bushing onto the ball.

NOTE, Once the bushing is on the ball .
Then move the arm over and slip the arm over the bushing

Believe me, I would have put a Dremel to the bushing if it gave me trouble. However, we didn't find the need to Dremel the bushing, or pre-heat it. It actually pressed on quite easily by hand once the ball was lined up with the bushing in the fork. The part I was having difficulty with was getting the bushing in the fork lever to line up with the ball. I didn't have much clearance and I was unable to line it up and force it into position myself. With two people, we were able to guide the fork lever into position, while the other person pushed the fork lever from beneath. Once we had the bushing over the ball I pulled the clutch from below with a come-along tiedown strap and the person on the top put a little leverage and pop! It slipped right on. We did give the ball and bushing a good coating as you suggested as well.

As to why we were having trouble with clearance, I am not sure. I had fairly thick shims in the clutch, but the clutch disk is new that could be part of the issue. However, I suspect your original thoughts on mix-matched parts from early and late single disk variations are messing with the clearances. Something I resolve if I replace the clutch.

Thanks again for your help. It was super useful even if I didn't have to do the grind it out option.
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Old 11-18-2018, 10:40 PM
  #27  
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Please explain what you did.
\
Bushing onto the ball first.
then slide the arm onto the bushing.

OR

Bushing into the arm then pressed onto the ball
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Old 11-19-2018, 12:35 AM
  #28  
Michael Benno
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I installed the bushing into the arm first, then greased it, and then pressed the bushing+arm onto the ball.
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Old 11-19-2018, 01:01 AM
  #29  
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I suggest this way.
Bushing onto the ball first.
then slide the arm onto the bushing.
You will notice that this is how the arm comes apart from the bell housing, it slides off the bushing.

That way you describe will put a lot of extra force onto the ball ,
this is how the ball can be snapped off its stud.
I have had to fix a few of these because of people trying to force the arm/bushing onto the ball and damaging the ball
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