So I'm attempting to clean up the mess that some yahoo alarm guy installed.

Car wont start, well it did once. Not since...

Now under the steering wheel, I find... (see pics)

Plus a "kill" switch??

My plan is to:
Remove one at a time
Re splice the proper wire back to its "partner"

Anything to add guys?


Thanks

 

WOW....thats scary...since its an unknown variable...... Heres what I would do....trace how the switch works and what it "cuts"...then splice those back together....which wouldn eliminate the "switch"...

1st things 1st.....contact Rich at Electronik repair....ask him for his PDF file for "no start diagnosis"....it is the holy grail of tracing no start issues..... Have Junior read it and memorize it (I'm guessing he has more time than you do!!)....grab your multi testor and start tracing current-resistance....

When I had issues with my 88S4....I did find a couple "issues" where I got weird readings....however it was NOT what caused my no start...it ended up being the fuel pump....

 

That is the approach I have used on several cars, all successfully ultimately....between the stereo installers and the alarm installers it is remarkable some of these cars ever ran following the "improvements".

 

• Electronik Repair's "Common No-Start Diagnostics for the Porsche 928"
• JDSPorsche's "Troubleshooting Porsche 928 Starting Problems"

Good luck!


Probably don't need to say, but plenty of this:

 

When i bought my '78 OB back in '86 the previous owner had installed a toggle switch in the same area--it allows you to retract the radio antenna when listening to tapes or I pod thereby reducing the opportunity for the antenna to get all mucked up and become stuck. Stiil use it to this day. I also insatlled another toggle that allows the electric fan to run when the ignition is off--early OBs need ignition key in accessory position for fan to run. I sometimes turn the fan switch off to start the car if it draws too much power away from starter when running via temp sensor. Don't know if any of this applies to your sitiation.

 

Finally got it out.

Now to repair the wire that they 'tapped" onto...

 

Now I cant get the engine to crank.

I did before...

Hmmmm......

 

WOW....that is a nightmare.....

Now it won't crank at all? Is there voltage at the starter?

 

Is not a jumper required to allow the car to start with the alarm defeated? I am recalling a need to jumper 2 wires in one of the connecting sockets?

 

Is this on the '79? Are there any signs of a factory alarm?

 

I was thinking the earlier cars did not have factory alarms, started in like '83?

 

Alarm offered beginning 79

His son's car is S4. What year?

Do you have the wiring diagrams?

 

Its a '87

I do have the wiring diagrams...pain to read.

I don't know if it had/has a factory alarm.
How do you tell.

I'm surprised, just removing the garbage from the "vampire" clamps, all should be back to factory.
Right?

 

I believe there is an 8 in connector where the original alarm controller plugged in? The vampire contol most likely interfaces with several of the wires that went to the original alarm controller. In order to start the car a pair of contacts in the alarm controller have be closed. With the vampire wiring/ controller removed, or the original alarm controller incapacitated there is nothing to complete the circuit, hence no start at all. In my car, which is an '84, I had to jumper 2 pins in the 8 pin connector. I don't remember which 2 and they may well be different on an '87

 

OMG...nightmare!