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Old 02-03-2011, 06:20 PM
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scotts911e
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Default main fuse question

I was charging my battery on my 82 and the pos cable shorted and blew my main fuse I don"t see it on the main panel am i overlooking it or is somewhere else?
Old 02-03-2011, 07:17 PM
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scotts911e
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can someone help me out here please Is it a relay that blew or a fuse ? my car is dead and i need some help!
Old 02-03-2011, 07:32 PM
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neilh
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Where did you short positive cable? you may have blown out wiring - not good.

There is no main fuse, there are many fuses. Have you pulled the carpet on the passenger side and looked for any obviously blown?

Put the model info and your location in your signature, it helps us help you better.
Neil

Last edited by neilh; 02-03-2011 at 08:42 PM.
Old 02-03-2011, 08:42 PM
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Fogey1
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I don't believe there is a "main" fuse. Have you looked at the fuse panel?

"Dead" is a very imprecise term. Any modern vehicle can fail in LOTS of ways. Detailed descriptions of symptoms are critical. Will it turn over, does the fuel pump hum, does it make any noises, are there any lights working or on, did smoke get out of the wires, and so forth?

Is your battery charged now?
Old 02-03-2011, 09:01 PM
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scotts911e
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well it seems to have cured it's self i opened the glove box and noticed the light was on so I turned the ignition on and had all lights and she started! She's been screwing wjth me these past few days I just had gotten done doing an intake refresh and when i started it up for the first time it ran for a second and then "zap" nothing! All is well now and thanks for your help


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Old 02-03-2011, 09:02 PM
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Hilton
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What cable shorted? By "pos cable" do you mean POS or positive?

There is no "main fuse".

What works/doesn't work? Interior lights? Dash instruments? (oil pressure, battery gauge etc)
Does the starter motor crank the engine?
Is the battery connected?
Is the ground strap connected at the vehicle end?
Is the positive terminal on the battery clear of the metal cover?
Does the horn work? (separately fused and relayed circuit - simple test of battery providing power to the panel)
Where did you connect the battery charger?
Is the car running stock ignition?
Is the 14-pin connector by the hot post in the engine bay clean and connected?
What was the last thing you fixed/fiddled with before charging the battery?
Old 02-03-2011, 09:03 PM
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Hilton
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Check your rear ground strap for corrosion - if there's any (including up behind the sheathing) replace with a $10 one from an auto parts store.

Originally Posted by scotts911e
well it seems to have cured it's self i opened the glove box and noticed the light was on so I turned the ignition on and had all lights and she started! She's been screwing wjth me these past few days I just had gotten done doing an intake refresh and when i started it up for the first time it ran for a second and then "zap" nothing! All is well now and thanks for your help


scotts911e
82 928
nor cal
Old 02-03-2011, 09:09 PM
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neilh
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+ 1 on what Hilton said, ALSO, whe you did the intake refresh, did you undo, clean and remember to reconnect the ground connections on the cam cover?
Old 02-03-2011, 09:22 PM
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dr bob
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After you consider the advice from the others, how were you charging the battery? And from where on the car?

If you were close to the battery when you shorted positive to ground, there's a possibility that the battery has exploded, hopefully internally without rupturung the case. Carefully open the battery box cover and see if the case looks a little swollen. If it is, CAREFULLY remove the connections and then extract the battery. Get it into a plastic dishpan or similar and test the terminal voltage. If there was an internal explosion there will be little or no voltage available, and you'll need a new battery.

------


Generally, "charging the battery" doesn't offer much opportunity for connecting the battery positive to ground. More common mistakes usually include getting the charger leads swapped accidentally, usually not doing much more than popping a circuit breaker on the battery charger. Jump--starting the car or charging the battery from another car offers a lot more chance for damage from reverse polarity, since the reverse current source is much larger. Most consumer jumper cables actually have small (maybe 10-gauge) conductors, so they will melt at less than 100 amps in a short time if connected wrong. Not fast enough to protect the electrical stuff in the car, but generally fast enough to keep the battery from blowing up.

I think my "favorite" battery mishap is folks who decide that they want to use a wrench on the positive battery terminal while the ground side is still connected. Wrench touches chassis or frame/body ground, battery discharges very rapidly, heat of rapid discharge causes battery to explode. Better, just drop a big wrench directly across the battery terminals; hydrogen and oxygen are immediately generated in large quantities for te space inside, lots of heat of course, and a spak from the wrench is the ignition sourse. BOOM! Big noise, battery acid all over the place including your skin/face/eyes/clothes.


Any of this sound familiar?



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