jumpinjimmy

Howdy Folks from France....I've just purchased a 1980 928S Euro model that's been sitting for 7 years in a garage. It was running when parked and I dare say, there's not a scratch on it. I only paid 1000 euros for it ($1370 at current rates) and wondered if you are able to give me any tips for getting it running again after having sat up for so long. This is the 300HP model, but on the down side, it has an automatic transmission. The odometer is showing 167000kms (just over 100,000 miles) and the widow of the owner can't find any of the paperwork on the car but she told that her husband kept it well maintained. Do you think the timing belt is shot, for example. What about the injection pump and injectors?, etc etc. I would be grateful for your input. Any tips on what I should do before firing it up.

I've owned 4 911's, 2 356's and I currently own a 912 and I've always wanted a 928 but have been nervous about the running costs. Finally have taken the dive! It's a beauty!


Thanks,
Steve
the displaced southern boy

namasgt

Hello and welcome to rennlist

nice car you have there, that's one of my favorite colors on the older body stile 928s, also there's no down side for owning an automatic 928, they are all great cars.

before trying to start the car I would check the timing belt for cracks, If you do see any cracks I would recommend changing the belt before turning, its an interference engine and if there are any damage to the belt it could break during start up and bend the valves, Porsche recommends changing the timing belt every 40 to 50 thousand miles or every 5 years. Some cars have had their belt break from only turning the engine with the starter. I would also flush the fuel system before trying to start the car.
After you have done the above, I would check for spark on the spark plugs before adding new fuel to the system, also make sure the engine has oil in it before turning in case it was drained before storage.

One thing you have to worry about for buying a 928 or any water cooled car that has been seating for a long time is damage to the head gaskets and the block from old coolant turning acidic, this will happen if the coolant was not drained before the car was stored for a long period.

jumpinjimmy

Hi and thank you for taking the time to write....I live out in the middle of nowhere in France so I'll probably be doing most of the work myself on this car. When I first looked at the car, the battery was completely dead after having sat for 7 years untouched so we hooked up jumper cables from another battery (not in a car) and were able to get stuff to power up but nothing happened when I turned the key (no starter solenoid sounds, just simply nothing!). My first thought was immobiliser. The battery in the key itself was certainly dead so none of the central locking was working, if it even has it. Did they have immobilisers on these cars? Could it be the on board computer that's dead? I've read about the 7 different grounding points but don't actually know where they are. Is there a link to info somewhere?

I'll plan on changing the timing belt, but one question....I was under the impression that since this is a 16 valve model, that it was a non-interference engine and hence a broken timing belt would not damage the engine. It's actually hard to find correct info on this car as most of the database sites are based on american models and this being an euro "S" car from 1980, it doesn't figure into the data....so I'm not actually sure if it's a 16 valve or 32 valve....but judging from the doc that I saw, it should be a 16 valve non-interference motor.

Steve

ps. When I first called about the car, they told me it was brown....my heart sank, but it turns out they were talking about the interior. The car is a lovely steel blue, also one of my favorite colors in a car.

Hilton

Welcome to Rennlist Steve. Nice colour, and nice car

You should also join Amicale928 - you can find them here:

http://www.amicale928.org/forums/

For ground points, this thread on another 928 site has some good pictures showing grounds on a 16V "Euro" like yours (thanks to Landseer for posting them):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-16v-euro.html

If there is an immobiliser, it will be an aftermarket one that is fitted, as 1980 predates the factory alarm system. A quick look at the plugs along the base of the electric panel should show you if there is anything else wired into the car - look for splices, black electrical tape, and anything non-factory with black wires.

The consensus on the British 928 list is that early 928S are non-interference (80-83), and that the 84-86 16V models and all 32V models are interference.

Bosch K-jetronic doesn't like to sit for long periods, you should probably plan on rebuilding the fuel distributor and warm up regulators, as well as cleaning the injectors and testing the fuel pumps. You will also need a gauge set to diagnose K-jet.

If you don't have them, you can download a pdf copy of the workshop manuals on this page.

Good luck - lots of help on this forum from people with good experience and attitudes.

jumpinjimmy

Excellent advice. Thank you very much for the links, especially to the ground points and french 928 club.

Steve

SanDiego928

So cool. Hope everything works out. Lovely car. I am 8 weeks into my first 928 and enjoy every moment I get to drive it. The women love this car........I am so fortunate. Only down side are the speeding tickets. Haha. Oh and welcome from Southern California.

jumpinjimmy

Any ideas on the reason why the starter doesn't respond assuming that there's not an immobiliser? Are there relays that work with the starter?

cpayne

Welcome! Great deal on a great looking car. You have come to the right place.

James Bailey

Yes on the auto trans car you have a starter relay as well as a neutral safety switch on the transmission. There is no "injector pump" on a CIS car. You need to study CIS Injection to understand system pressure and control pressure. That said if you run a + wire jumper from the under hood jump start post to the small + on the ignition coil and a jumper wire from battery to the + terminal on the under tank fuel pump it should have fuel and spark ......with fresh gas it might run !

Eric Vaas

jumpinjimmy,

I have the exact same car, in a 5-speed, lower miles, but much worse cosmetically. It had sat for 10 years. I inspected the TB, it looked ok. I replaced the fuel pump and filter, cleaned the WUR, rebuild the fuel distributer (don't think it was needed), and checked the injectors. I was able to get it started. It runs ok now, but I have to still play with the fuel pressures. I was under the impression that it is a non-interference motor. I'm going to replace the TP/WP when I really put it on the road.

I beleive, since the old dead battery is still in place, that this is probably drawing down the amps to the starter. Take it out completly, and try a fresh battery.

For the little bit that I have driven it, I am really impressed with the low end torque of the motor. These cars are great when working correctly!

Rick

SteveG

This is the first time I heard that an '80 was an interference engine.

RFJ

If the car sat in an empty stone garage for 7 years dampness may be your enemy, that said everything electric should be checked as soon as practical. my 2 cents. good luck and enjoy, Ray.

pcar928fan

I thought ALL the EURO S 16V (and of course all the 32V) engines were interference but maybe those Brits are on to something and the early EURO S's are not...since that is what is in the race car that is nice to know...

Fogey1

Welcome. An excellent starting point is the sticky New Visitors post at the top of the forum.

You don't have a computer. Nonetheless, Wally's Annual Electrical PM will be your friend on a long-stored car.
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/zelec_cleaning.txt

http://www.928buckeyelandsharks.com/home has an extensive links page that's worth checking, imo.

G Man

I would definately put in a fresh battery to begin with. If the car still won't turn over, put the shifter into neutural and try it. I have to do that with my car. I need to replace the neutural safety switch on the trans.