That's BTDT advice that will save considerable time and frustration for those like me who HBTDT (haven't been there done that ;) ). I can visualize what you're saying and it makes complete sense. Good tip.

I do hope so JP... If I can be of help,,, just wake the thread.
Good diggin

great work and congrats on putting this one behind you. certain it was an amazing transformation. cheers!

Thank you merch!!!
I have lots more questions and lots more work to do. That's for sure. I am anxious to dig in... Thanks to the help of the folks here...!

Jay, thanks for adding to the thread. It’s always satisfyingly that this helped someone out like Dwayne’s site did for me.
Cheers!

Tackled this over the weekend. My buddy's lift came in handy:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ec43c13ce7.jpg

Starting with the shifter in 1st, got the boot peeled back toward the rear with the help of some WD40. I'm so used to cheap domestic or Chinese rubber which would have completely deteriorated by now. This German rubber was still strong and pliable. Truly amazing that it has held up so long.
Put reference marks on the coupler and black shifter shaft, and loosened the collar. Got to the hex set pin, and after reading posts about some being a bitch to loosen, I tried my Taiwanese 4mm hex drive for less flex and better leverage. I recommend having one of these hex sockets on hand before diving in:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4c1900125e.jpg
...it worked like a charm. Set pin threads were snug, so in anticipation of it being hard to thread back into the hole, I loosened the pin to the point just before it came out. Pushed the trans. shaft back toward the trans, which allowed me to slide the coupler forward, off the trans shaft and slide the shift shaft off of the spline.
This is how much bushings were left :o :
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8e9c9dba62.jpg
..which explained a lot.
Drove the pin out using a socket arrangement like AlKada, however placed the coupler on the vise anvil and hammered on the small socket & drove the pin down into the large socket.
Cleaned out the coupler bores. The new bushings wouldn't fit without binding. I sanded the edges slightly for a small taper. They pressed in after that. I used a socket with a smaller diameter than the coupler flange and tapped the bushing in. Then a quarter on the other bushing and a 1/4" drive extension thru the installed bushing to tap the second one in.
Tapped the pin back in, reinstalled the coupler and checked shift alignment (front to back). Reverse wasn't quite engaging, so I increased the gap on the spline by 1/8". When in neutral, the shifter was sitting a bit too far to the left for my liking, so I turned the shift shaft clockwise 1/4 turn and tightened. The shifter now sits just left of center when in neutral.
Shifter is now tight as new and shifting is smooth and positive. I've had this GT for 19 years and the shift action has never felt so smooth, snug and positive.
Thanks ALKada for the thread, JayPoorJay for the tips and Roger for the bushings!

Damn JP... Great writing, and pictures to boot. Yup, my coupler looked JUST like that! Toast. Amazing it worked at all.

Where can I get one ah them lifts, jealous over here, lol! Over the weekend I changed out the front cup as well. All and all the difference is stunning, but like some of you might have seen, I made a stupid mistake installing some "fancy" plugs in her and completely thru off the way she runs. Have a right set of Bosch plugs from Roger due to arrive tomorrow... Looking forward to feeling her out with these changes. The 928 kinda MAKES me drive faster than I ever have, lol...

For me, dropping everything possible worked best for the front pivot. Sheared and replaced every bolt on the exhaust where the cat meets down pipe, with new flange/gaskets at the seam (dreaming of a lift, lol).... Then used a strap to pop on the new cup (not so easy). Oh,,, counted turnouts to remove original pivot arm to learn that the new pivot arm was approx 3 to 4 threads longer than the original. Had to compensate for that. Things worked out ok I guess. One thing I don't know how to solve is HOW to get the lock or capture nut that locks the arm to the rod JUST RIGHT before putting everything back together. Hindsight I'm thinking maybe a crowfoot wrench on a socket extension,,, putting it bad loose and tightening after,,, might be worth a shot. I think the stick could sit better than it is but i dont have the energy to go nack in just now. Anyways

Edit --- forgot to mention, for more movement in the rod that the pivot arm threads into,,, I unclipped and disconnected it from the stick inside of the car. This,,, with the TT still in place, I think, made this job a LOT easier. Jus sayn

Loooooong ways to go with time to get there. Thank you everyone for all your guidance.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4807ffee89.jpg
Above torq tube with pivot arm removed.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d9559ecbda.jpg
Everything out of the way.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...54bc9587e2.jpg
2, 3, 4 threads difference.

Some one has already been there, snapped an allen key, and left the boot exposing the coupling

I presume this means there's nothing I can do without dropping the transmission

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8e124b47ed.jpg

Fortunately there is not as much play as I expected, but it is still disappointing

Must have happened over 17 years ago, since that is how long I've owned the car

Out of interest, what is the 'exhaust hanger' for here?

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a5c691ab79.jpg

I've never had to remove the exhaust before, and I will never try to do so again without having a couple of dollys to hand

Luckily I was above to borrow these from the office

Thankfully no one is using the parking space next to me, otherwise this would have been very awkward

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c87fa775a0.jpg

A right angle drill and some stubby drill bits might fit up in that grub screw without having to drop the transmission (?)

I wouldn't even consider dropping the transmission until a valiant attempt was made to get that allen key bit out. Try with some wd, some picks, magnet and and and. Drilling first will really change the shape of the sheared allen remnant pinning it to the surrounding grub screw - also hardened, I think... Allen's are hardened steel and the way they break (usually) is a brittle shattering kind of break,,, not a break that twists the remnant into the surrounding metal - tightly. It's a tough spot to be in no matter what ---- luckily,,, the coupler doesn't looks so bad!

Then, there is removing the front cup, and undoing the shifter in the console which should allow you to twist the rod some to have it facing down at you. A better angle... That last idea is guess, never done it.

The hanger I think is for an exahaust of a different design. I have it as well - but my exhaust doesn't split in the same way as yours.

All of this is labor of love.

You might also just cut off and destroy the boot (or push it waaaaay back),,, spend a couple of Dremel bits and slice into the sides of the coupler - in place - and pry the halves away from each other. I think the coupler body will cut easily. At least loosen how tight it is on the tranny shifter shaft... Pry it off...

If I couldn't get the remnant out - picking - that would be my next approach. But that's just me. I can be a little rough around the edges, lol

Yup - labor O love

That hanger is part of the mid-exhaust hanger. Really helps the longevity of the hangers at the back of the resonators.
You want it.
I was able to source good used parts from 928 International for the Red Witch. Being in the UK, that might not be a financially sound idea.

Look at this screen shot from AutoAtlanta:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0c46b0a412.jpg



Good Luck!

The exhaust hanger was fitted on earlier S4's with the larger heavier resonators.

2nd job - not so smooth...
 

I decided to finally tackle the '88's failed coupler bushing. Not having access to a lift this go-round, I found that 4 jack stands at highest setting gave me enough wiggle room. A head-mounted LED freed up my hands.
The boot pulled back with a bit of fiddling, I unbolted the clamp and went after the set screw. I didn't see much crud or corrosion so I figured that the screw would come out as easily as the GT's did. I didn't spray it down with penetrating oil. Bad assessment.
Initially I tried a 4mm hex that was part of a multi-tool. Way too much flex. I found my hex ratchet drive set. As the ratchet with the hex drive finally started to turn, I thought that the set screw had broken loose. In fact the hex bit/socket was turning inside the hex bore. The hex bore was now stripped/rounded.
So now two options after the expletives: get the set screw out somehow or get the car off the stands and to a lift or to someone who could get the screw out. I figured one last ditch attempt: easy out/extractor. No room for a drill, but maybe with a little dexterity & patience.....
I happened to have a set of Speedouts in my toolbox. Those things have saved my ass more than once...it was worth a shot, and this time they came through.
The #2 surprisingly bit into the rounded hex bore and I was able to get a firm grip on the Speedout bit and managed to break the set screw loose.
Now I just need to replace the bushings and source a new coupler set screw (Roger, do you have these?) and I'm good to go.
Before crawling under your car to do this job, aside from having the bushings and a 4mm hex socket on hand, I strongly suggest:

• spraying penetrating oil into the hex pin recess at least an hour or so before starting work..maybe a little concentrated heat
• having a replacement set screw on hand in case the original gets stripped
• having a #2 Speedout as an extractor on hand and a box wrench, vise grips or adjustable wrench to turn it in case the set pin gets stripped

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a5f6c1b5dd.jpg