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Everyone I've dealt with that has bronze bushing rattled so bad the owners wanted them tossed in the trash.
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Originally Posted by SeanR
(Post 14645200)
Everyone I've dealt with that has bronze bushing rattled so bad the owners wanted them tossed in the trash.
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Originally Posted by SeanR
(Post 14645200)
Everyone I've dealt with that has bronze bushing rattled so bad the owners wanted them tossed in the trash.
The winter is here making it impossible to take the car for a test drive. When the spring is here I will come back to you guys with a report. Åke |
I finally replaced mine, I probably spent ~13 hours doing it all together.
I disconnected everything from the rear subframe except the two electrical on the transaxel and the parkingbrake and just lowered it down with the torque tube still on it. I had to pull the clutch to get to the top two bolts holding the torque tube at the front. I bought a longer 8mm allen head bolt that doesn't counter-sink and ground a point on it to replace the factory 4mm one that was stuck. I ended up grinding into the old coupling and then knocking it with an air hammer and it fell off the car. I replaced mine front and rear with the 928motorsports ones. That front coupling is a nightmare in my opinion. I could hardly do the jam nut trickery with the torque tube laying on the ground. I had to sand some 17mm wrenches just to fit both on at the same time. I have no idea how they expect you to do that on the car, with the whole 2 inches of working room you have after contorting your hand up and around the torque tube with it installed. I maxed the forward adjustment on it and the stick still leans further back than the factory front cup. But in the end, wow. I didn't know a 928 could have such a positive feeling shift. |
Originally Posted by s54venture
(Post 14847476)
I replaced mine front and rear with the 928motorsports ones. That front coupling is a nightmare in my opinion. I could hardly do the jam nut trickery with the torque tube laying on the ground. I had to sand some 17mm wrenches just to fit both on at the same time. I have no idea how they expect you to do that on the car, with the whole 2 inches of working room you have after contorting your hand up and around the torque tube with it installed. I maxed the forward adjustment on it and the stick still leans further back than the factory front cup.
But in the end, wow. I didn't know a 928 could have such a positive feeling shift. No doubt one of the best mods for the car, the shifting is phenomenal. |
Anyone have part numbers for the bushings?
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30 322 424 911P - $13.75 the pair and I have 40 sets in stock
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Actually. What are thoughts on a graphite set as opposed to a poly, plastic or rubber type?
Look at this on eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F273671791667 |
That is the exact same set we sell for 1/2 the price.- the bushes were always Poly not Delrin - a common mistake.
Just talked to the manufacturer and they are indeed Polygraphite. |
Originally Posted by ROG100
(Post 15780058)
That is the exact same set we sell for 1/2 the price.- the bushes were always Poly not Delrin - a common mistake.
Just talked to the manufacturer and they are indeed Polygraphite. |
Originally Posted by JayPoorJay
(Post 15780179)
Wowo --- Big thanks. Send a link? Ill take'm...
Just call Roger. It is much easier and he'll get you rolling. |
call 817 430 2688 or email at Roger@928srus.com
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Awesome day! Stunning difference!
Some before and afters... An hour or so is all it took! Now for the front coupler/ball swivel... I have the heat sheild out already but I think I will drop the exhaust, replace the bolts, the cat manifold gaskets and work that way with more and best room to get at things. One hint if I can pass it on - on replacement,,, placing the conical allen bolt in it hole and threading it until it is just touching the metal shaft from the tranny WITH the allen wrench in the long way to help give grip and leverage while tryingto line up the conical with its hole I think is the way to go. There is not a lot of visibility so feel works. If you can move it a little on the shaft, with it just tight, you will feel it land home and notice you can turn it in. That helped me. Jus sayn Thanks Roger and ALL... Love this site, and this sweet machine! Still, a loooong ways to go... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fc64cddc65.jpg From under on the passenger side. Easiest approach side, I think. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...07b6cf922b.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e69e9b240f.jpg Thank you ALL! |
JayPoorJay, thanks for the photos for reference. These pics combined with ALKada's helpful writeup and bushing kits from Roger will make my much more prepared for the job. Considering that both the GT and the S4 are in dire need of bushings, I should be good to go!
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No worries JP... Take another look at my last post,,, I just added an edit... I think it can help take a lot of frustration out of the last steps. The allen hole in the conical screw is sooo deep that leaving the allen wrench or a socketed allen in IS a great way to get and keep a hold on things while you are working, repositioning and lining things all back up. Serves like a small handle of sorts,,, then you can slowly turn it in and if its not dead on, the cone grabs the hole and pulls things into shape. Helped me lots, its a strange angle AND leaving an allen in might also help you keep the bloody boot out of your work space (pinned back and down) until you get things in place too. After, when you yank the allen tool, the boot will release and at that you can pull it over the knuckles.
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