Landseer

They share power via fuse 24 but do not share actuation.


Actuation of the door end lamps is same as door interor lights.
Glovebox light has a separate actuation pin switch and it does not work in conjunction with the door lights.
(They share power, but the switches are switching the ground off/on for discrete sub circuits.)
(The "connection" is within that spaghetti of wires behind the fuse panel)

Its really not possible to troubleshoot this circuit without the wiring diagram, and difficult enough with it.

Fuse 24 conducts power for a series of things, and therefore could blow for lots of reasons.

Hatch unlock switches, motor.
Glove box switch and light.
Clock constant power
All interior lights and door lights and switches.
Interior light relay #21

I wouldn't disassemble the roof of the car unless I saw fried wires at one of the roof lights or hatch light and couldn't fix it any other way.

Take the covers off the console and inspect the wires closely, especially clock / ashtray area. They are notorious places for mice to nest and chew tasteee wires.

Then, I'd take a hard look at the hatch release switches. They share the same line of power off the CE panel as the glovebox. Whereas the glovebox light is illuminated by switching the ground on/off via pin switch, the hatch release switches serve a motor that is grounded and they act to connect the hot lead. They are notorious, at least in my cars, for melting and sometimes working, sometimes not.

Your non-working doorlight could be corroded and shorted inside, very common.

Just some things to check. Look for evidence of failure.

Oh, be sure every one of the interior lights and glovebox light has the right wattage light bulb, something like 2 or 3 watts max.

A couple of bigger bulbs, a corrosion/partially shorted door end lamp may work together to blow 24.

Happy hunting. If you are like me, its more fun than driving.

rgs944

Thanks Chris, I do not think I would clasify it as fun but lets just call it therepy. It is helping keep a little piece of my mind off the misery of another horrible midwest winter.

martinss

This thread was very timely. My fuse 24 always burns out. I had not gotten to it as I'm currently working on an interior refurbishment. However, I have the headliner down. Now sounds like a perfect time to check out the wiring harness in the roof and connections to the hatch - which I would not have considered before. Thanks!

rgs944

Back to tearing things apart again today. Still can not get the delay to turn off the lights. I took the glove box out and found that the glove box light is not even hooked up and I see no where to plug it in. Here are some pics.

rgs944

This pic shows the glove box light connector. As you can see it is different than the other two wire connector shown below. What is confusing is that they are so close together and seem like they should connect together.

rgs944

This pic shows the other two wire connector and a larger connector that was up near the glove box. Also the larger connector pictured was not plugged in but it had that cross jumper wire plugged into it. I pulled it out because I know it was not factory. I should have made note of what prongs it connected to but I did not. What is that larger connector for and why would someone jumper it?

rgs944

One more note, it seems like when I pulled that jumper wire out the power locks no longer worked. Does that large connector have anything to do with power locks? Another strange thing I found is that a relay housing has power to it. While I was tooling around with the test light I accidently touched the relay for the ABS. It lit the test light. I am sure it is not suppose to. One issue I was going to address in the future is why the antilock brake warning stays on in the pod. Would a shorted ABS relay do that, I imagine it would.

Mrmerlin

the connection point for the glove box light is in the harness thats on the topside of the right footwell,
look carefully you should see it in front of the computers .
The ABS relay can be checked with 12v see if it closes if not then a new ABS relay is needed

SeanR

Jumper wire looks like it is for by passing the factory alarm.

rgs944

OK, I guess I screwed up in taking the jumper wire out and not marking it. Is it a good idea to bypass the alarm? If so does anyone know which prongs to jumper. On a better note, It seems that the delay is now working. All lights going off as they should. An interior light red wire was connected on the wrong side of the light. I still did not figure out what was causing the fuse blowing. I did try to jiggle everywire I could so maybe a jarred the short loose. I would feel much better if I actually know what I did. On a positive side I did not see any burned wires anywhere.

Mrmerlin

also a note if the fuse for lights blows when you pull the hatch release then the pull switch is damaged ,
when its pulled it goes to ground and this the fuse blows, it can be repaired but the switch has to be pulled apart then wrap some carper thread around the stud to keep the contactor from grounding,,

then a dab of super glue to hold it in place.

you may find 2 small phenolic half washers about 2 mm in diameter in the bottom of the switch this was the insulator

rgs944

I have looked at the pull switches and they look to be in good shape. As far as the power wiring for the glove box switch I am completely lost. It's like it just vanished. I have looked very hard for it. Where is it sourced from? I would think since it is connected in with the red door light I could find it near the door hinge wiring junction. Nothing. If it is sourced from the CE panel directly maybe it got shoved behind when the computer or CE panel was out and replaced last.

Landseer

Tilt the panel and find it.
The female has a red wire (sourced from E13) and a brown wire (attaches to firewall).

The male is with the light and the glovebox switch, coming out of the glovebox.


There is another thing you need behind the panel. A flat black 8 pin connector. That will help us help you bridge the alarm again, if that is what is needed.

rgs944

Thank you, I did take the panel down again and looked. I did not find either the glove box wire or the flat connector. I will look again in the morning but I did look pretty good. I looked at the E circuit good and did not see anything unusual like a cut wire. It seems real odd that I would not see them. Factory screw up has crossed my mind. Is that possible?

Mrmerlin

for the glove box light look at the computers then look at the top of the puters follow the this along top towards the firewall there you will find the door harness and if you keep going you will se a few more harnesses just at the very top against the fire wall is the connector for the glovebox it may have been pushed behind some of the other computer cables/..
Also go back and reread the posts the answer to jumper the alarm has already been given,
and you already posted a picture of the connector its the black one with 8 pins in it ,
if you look on the side the wires are pressed into you will also see numbers for each wire