Fuse 24 keep blowing
#31
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Ok, more progress made, I did find the power for the light switch tucked back behind the computer. Thank you, Guys. Turns out the bulb must be blown because I do have power in the wires. Now on to the red door light. I will take the door panel off tommorow and see what I find there. I have checked the bulb already by switching it to the other side.
#32
Team Owner
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instead of taking the door apart just pop the light housing out of the door the whole light and holder will come out
disconnect the battery first.
you will probably find the rear of the holder all rusted,
if you can ,
clean it out then add some dielex grease to the connections,
then wash the bulb housing and red lense,
then add some silicone sealant to the backside of the holder cap and wire so water wont run down and fill the rear of the bulb housing up.
Orient the housing so the holes face down
disconnect the battery first.
you will probably find the rear of the holder all rusted,
if you can ,
clean it out then add some dielex grease to the connections,
then wash the bulb housing and red lense,
then add some silicone sealant to the backside of the holder cap and wire so water wont run down and fill the rear of the bulb housing up.
Orient the housing so the holes face down
#33
Rennlist Member
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On the 85/6 there is a flat 8pin black alarm connector: terminals 1 + 4 (Yellow is 1, Black/red is 4)
At the plug entering the alarm box on 85/6: same wires, but they are labeled terminals 1 + 3.
The 87 diagram is a little different and I don't have a car here to confirm.
So long, on this 87, you are bridging yellow + Black w/ red stripe, it will be ok.
It looks like, on your black plug, it will be 1 & 4, but verify wire colors.
Got it?
At the plug entering the alarm box on 85/6: same wires, but they are labeled terminals 1 + 3.
The 87 diagram is a little different and I don't have a car here to confirm.
So long, on this 87, you are bridging yellow + Black w/ red stripe, it will be ok.
It looks like, on your black plug, it will be 1 & 4, but verify wire colors.
Got it?
#34
Drifting
Thread Starter
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OK, I feel like I am getting somewhere with all your help guys. Back to the ABS relay. Should the outer casing of that relay light up the test light? I would not think so but please let me know for sure. I also read somewhere that there were three ABS relays. The relay I am referring to is XVII and that is the only one I see for ABS.
#35
Team Owner
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remove the ABS relay and put power to the switching contacts if it wont switch with 12V applied replace the relay
Note ABS system issues are usually the relay failing ,
probing the CE panel for power is not what you have to be doing.
The other 2 relays are on the ABS unit ,
these are tested by going into the left fender and removing the liners, but they are probably good,
NOTE the usual ABS failure is the ABS relay on the board.
You will know if its the CE panel relay by turning on the key,
if the ABS light comes on without rolling then the CE panel relay is bad ,
if the ABS lights come on after the car has rolled faster than 7MPH then its either a sensor or one of the relays under the front left fender
Note ABS system issues are usually the relay failing ,
probing the CE panel for power is not what you have to be doing.
The other 2 relays are on the ABS unit ,
these are tested by going into the left fender and removing the liners, but they are probably good,
NOTE the usual ABS failure is the ABS relay on the board.
You will know if its the CE panel relay by turning on the key,
if the ABS light comes on without rolling then the CE panel relay is bad ,
if the ABS lights come on after the car has rolled faster than 7MPH then its either a sensor or one of the relays under the front left fender
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Ok, I got everything together. I did not test the relay but I would think the relay is the problem. Now the the hatch release and interior lights are working as they should and that was my main goal. But Surprise Surprise, I seem to have created a new problem. Not one single light working in either taillight assembly. No clearence lights in the rear either. The front lights on the car are working. My initial thought would be ground so I cleaned the ground on the battery and in the spare tire area. No luck. There are some Led lights back there so I need to just order all new lights so I know I am starting with the correct bulbs.
#37
Drifting
Thread Starter
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From my search I found that there is another ground for the rear lights that is harder to get to. I would not think that would be the problem though. I also found that the main bulb control is plugged into the passenger tray. My guess is the problem lies up there. I did clean the grounds on the CE panel so I guess I need to make sure I got them all hooked up. I did also check and make sure the bulb control plug is plugged in good.
#38
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Found out there was a wiring circuit not plugged all the way in on the CE panel. I still have the stoplamp warning light but I believe once I get all the right bulbs in the right places that should take care of that. The good thing is the antilock warning is now gone. I cleaned the relay up and maybe that fixed it. I feel better now that I am getting somewhere. It seems like I now have a handle on the electrical. The rear shifter bushing are now fixed (feels tight as new), and the CE panel is cleaned up. Now if the motor mounts and TB would just jump into the car I would feel really good. Those might have to wait, my next project might be the intake refresh. Everything has to be done anyway so I am just going on what I feel like doing next. Thank you all for your patience with someone so new to the 928.
Last edited by rgs944; 01-28-2011 at 08:27 PM.
#40
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Update on Fuse 24. When I started driving the car again it went back to its same old tricks. I finally have the puzzle solved. What made this problem extra tough is that I was having two entire different issues messing with the interior lights. I had the common problem of a short in the roof light. I also had a short by the emergancy brake lever. I have not read about that one so hopefully this will help someone in the future. The short at the brake pedal was actually the one causing the blown fuses while the roof short would just cause the lights to stay on past the delay.