CharlieL

On my 82, fused circuit #23, inside lights and clock. (Also rear hatch but I don't believe the 82 had hatch switch. If it did where is it?)
With 8 amp fuse installed, lights and clock work BUT amp draw is .35 amps and drains battery overnight. .35 amps is measured at battery terminal with all bulbs removed, clock disconnected, and ignition off.
Remove #23, 8 amp fuse and amp draw is .01---just fine! BUT now voltage in the lights and clock circuit is 6 volts with fuse removed and ignition on. Zero volts with ignition off.
I can't find a short and where is 6 volts coming from??
Charlie

Mrmerlin

roll down the windows look inside the doors and see if the red door edge lights are shutting off ,
also see if the glove box light is on when the cover is closed

CharlieL

All bulbs removed to include glove box, door jambs, door side panels, overhead front and rear. Its the 6 volts showing in the #23 circuit with no fuse installed that baffles me.

smiffypr

Try moving all the interior light switches and see if the 6v changes.

CharlieL

Actually I removed al the switches to clean them up when the problem was first noticed. I have a voltmeter from the red "hot wire" to ground and get the mysterious 6 volts

smiffypr

Has anything been added to the electrical system? Maybe someone has used this wire for a permanent 12v for a radio or alarm which also has an ignition feed.

CharlieL

It is not a single wire, it is the entire circuit from the #23 fuse. With the fuse removed and the ignition on, ALL interior switched lighting and the clock supply reads 6 volts. With the fuse installed we get 12 volts, which is fine EXCEPT with the ignition off there is a .35amp draw which kills the battery.

Landseer

Pull the panel out.
Look on the back the typical melt-together of wires.
They often nest into each other just enough for the copper in adjacent wires to barely touch for a while, then eventually move into a full short circuit.

What are you working with for wiring diagrams?

CharlieL

http://www.cannell.co.uk/928_Worksho...%20diagram.pdf

Landseer

Yes, it does have a rear hatch switch.
Location is at the base of the latch mechanism.
Be sure to remove, disassemble and clean the hatch and door pins, then resolder onto the wire.

Make sure grounds are clean at CE panel (2 above panel) and behind right quarter panel trim.

Pull the roof light fixtures down to hang by wires / look for harness shorts.

Go to the plug at the bottom of panel labeled "U". Finger the wires and look closely at them for any signs of shorts. The roof light harness passes out of U2, then down along sill under carpet, under the passenger rear quarter panel edge and up to the roof. Did you eyeball that harness for integrity?

CharlieL

OK, so where is the remote button to activate the switch that releases the hatch?.

Landseer

Maybe I misread/ misunderstood. That you don't have (began 84). You do have the pin to detect hatch closure.

CharlieL

Chris I am getting confused here. It's an 82. "pin to detect hatch closure"??? What is this?
Charlie

Landseer

Its below (under) the latch on the body where the hatch is held down.
Its shown electrically on the diagram, so for 82 I'm assuming its like 84 and beyond.

Landseer

Its just like a door pin for actuating the interior lights.
Part of the circuit. Gotta hit the whole circuit.


Edit, rechecked, has the rear hatch switch for interior lights, no opening device though on 82