I tried to start it again tonight. The fuel tank stainer came in and I installed it and gased it up. I left the fuel pump relay out at DocMirrors suggestion and sprayed a little carb cleaner in the spider body just to try to get it to fire(no fuel in system). Not a hint of a start so I checked the spark and had none. I changed the coil back to the original beefier unit and then looked at my new Honda green wire plug. I had no connection there so I got rid of the plug entirely. Check the spark again and it was huge. I am gonna charge the battery tonight and try again tomorrow. I think tomorrow is the day it's gonna happen. Gunar

 

I am not getting a response from DocMirror. I sprayed some carb cleaner in the spider body and got a 1 back fire and a lot of white smoke so I had an ignition. I put the air cleaner back on and jumpered the fuel pump for about a minute. I heard fuel flowing through the fuel distributor but I did not press the air plate down to engage injectors. Put the relay back in for the fuel pump and tried to start with no success. No hit at all. I sprayed some carb cleaner in and still no hit. Later I'll pull a plug and see if it's dry. If dry I may press the air plate down a bit to get the injectors to engage for a second and then try. I am almost to the point of taking it to The Motorworks here in Winston. They work on 928s and have a guy there that knows CIS. I really don't know what I'm doing at this point so maybe it's time to get someone else involved. Gunar
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Patience, somebody will help you make the final 5 yards.

Unfortunately, some of the smartest at CIS also work and aren't here in the morning.

 

Ignition timing problem. The backfire was the spark plug firing the mixture while the intake valve was open. The white smoke is too much fuel. Without knowing how you set your ignition timing, I would guess that the ignition is firing on the wrong cycle. It's a four cycle engine and you may be firing between the exhaust and intake strokes, rather than on the compression stroke.

Please check this carefully. You need to be firing on the compression stroke. Don't add more fuel to the system until you get it to rev a bit with carb cleaner. Work from lean to rich, not rich to lean.

Also with the picture you've provided I hope you understand how the mixture screw works. It's on a spring load to keep the adjustment out of contact with the screw below that moves the cam. When you adjust it, you need to engage the tool in the hex slot, then push down, and engage the adjustment screw. As you're pushing down, wiggle the tool a bit and you'll feel the adjuster lock down into the adjustment screw inside the base.

 

The only fuel that should be moving when you have the relay jumpered is through the return line. If you hear fuel going to your injectors, the A/F mixture is too rich. Check your plugs. They are probably wet. To set the A/F mixture, jumper the relay and turn the A/F adjustment counterclockwise until the fuel quits running, dry the plugs, unplug the cold start valve and try starting again.

Dennis

 

I have heard the sound of the injectors ticking a couple of weeks ago when I pushed down the air plate. I haven't done that yet this time so I really don't know if fuel has gone through them this time. I will check a plug for moisture before I try again. I tried turning the CO adjustment screw a few weeks ago to see if I could get the injectors to engage but they wouldn't unless I pushed down the plate with something.

 

Haven't tried to turn distrib while cranking. I'll ask the wife to crank while I try this. I have been spraying in the hole at the front passenger side of the spider body where auto vacuum connects if auto. I removed the bolt plug first of course. Should I have the airbox off for this? Should I take the relay for the fuel pump out for this? Where do you want me to spray the carb cleaner? I am confident that I have the cam marks,crank and rotor set to marks and tdc. Can I make the timing adjustments needed by turning the distrib within the bolt adjustment window? I am going somewhere for a few hours but I'll be back at this. The pop earlier got me excited. It hasn't done that before.

 

Use a 3mm allen wrench and push it down until it contacts the linkage as Docmirror stated. Once it contacts the linkage, move it until it recesses/engages the actual adjuster. Make sure the air sensor plate isn't pushed down then turn the adjustment to lean (CCW). Slowly turn it clockwise until you can hear the injectors, then move it back to lean until the fuel stops running. The A/F mixture should now be correct.

BTW the CIS system fuel movement is continuous so the injectors shouldn't be ticking.

Dennis

 

The only time they tick is when I push the plate down. I'll try the CO adjustment again. I think I have it all CCW(lean) now.

 

The ticking may be from the frequency valve (if equipped with an O2 sensor) or the hot start valve that is on some of the CIS euro's.

Dennis

 

No O2 sensors on this one. Never had them. The singing comes from all the way around directly from the injector area.

 

Singing is OK but not ticking.

Dennis

 

As for the distributor timing I had mine set mid travel and the car would start. It will run through a pretty wide range of dist. setting. Might try setting it to mid range. I assume you have verified cam mark settings, rotor alignment under the distributor cap (found my rotor was 180 deg out) when cams are set to timing marks as well as plugs on correct posts of the distributor for firing order.

 

Yeah, I'm worried that you are 180deg out on your firing order. If you're sure the plug wires are on the correct posts, then move the dist to the mid range or even slightly retarded from book setting. The engine will fire if it's too retarded but it won't fire if it's too advanced.

Spritzing gently in the plenum is fine. Just don't overdo it.

 

I was looking through the work shop manual on checking ignition timing and discovered I dont have anything hooked up to the vacuum retard port on the distributor. I need to find out where the hose will run to.