docmirror

Pull the fuse/relay for the fuel pump and turn the engine over for a bit. Watch for fuel spurting out the plug holes as that will be an indication of how long you should wait. If there's no fuel/air spray, just an hour or so.

Did I mention you should have a fire extinguisher handy?

gbgastowers

I pulled the plugs and put a bit of oil down each plug hole. The bottom of the air guide housing has a lot of amber fluid in it. Probably a mixture of starting fluid,carb cleaner and fuel from the cold start injector. I don't think I'll turn it over to see if fuel spurts out the plug holes. I'll wait till next week. I pulled the relief valve on the fuel distributor and it looked clean,new and the o-ring was good. I think the PO put a rebuilt fuel distrib. on it.

docmirror

I don't recall anyone saying to put oil down the holes. If you've been trying to start it the pistons are moving in the bores. Oil will just increase the likelyhood of fouling the plugs.

anyway, get it all dried out, including the air guide. Leave the fuel pump off, pull the relay, and start out dry. Then add a bit of carb cleaner. I don't like starting fluid, but you can try a bit. Get it to fire and run a bit on the spritz from the can first. Report back and we'll take it further with the fuel mixture.

gbgastowers

Sorry about the oil. I was concerned the cylinder walls had been washed dry by the fuel. I put some extra plugs in it and cranked it with the fuel pump relay removed to move that oil around on the piston top. I then removed the plugs to let it dry and sopped up the fuel at the bottom of the air housing.

James Bailey

Your harmonic balancer may be on backwards which due to the key way notch location means the cam timing is all wrong. So spark and fuel without compression is a no run condition.....The balancer "fits" on either way so it is 50-50 about getting it back on right.

gbgastowers

I had read about this before I put it back together so it's on correct.

Mrmerlin

this is how a damper should look your color may be different the tops of the numbers should be towards the engine and you should be able to read the numbers when facing the engine.

this engine is at TDC

gbgastowers

here's mine

gbgastowers

Merlin-What is that black plastic electronic connector to the left of your engine code stamp? On mine I have that hooked up to red wire from AC compressor and other side of it has 2 wires, one going into wire harness and the other going to the AC switch hanging from the cross brace. Correct?

gbgastowers

O/T on Euro is TDC right?

Mrmerlin

O/T is TDC
the connector your asking about is for the AC compressor.
your car has a feed that runs the compressor and the Idle compensation valve, so it sounds like you have it correctly wired

gbgastowers

Doc if your out there I'm ready to move forward. I have taken the fuel tank out,cleaned it and replaced some fuel lines and strainer/seal. I have 6 gallons of fresh 93 octane in and await your advice on how to proceed. Do I want to jumper the fuel pump first to charge the system with fuel? Here is how she looks at the moment. Gunar

gbgastowers

222222

gbgastowers

333333

Podguy

I did not see any gauges. You first should put on a pressure gauge and short the fuel pump relay. If your get the right pressure reading then you are ready to start.

I made up a push button attached to the base of a relay. I can replace the fuel pump or the starter relay with the push button. It has a long length of wire. The I can turn over the engine for a compression test or test the fuel pump for short bursts